drop tube

[kokomokid]

Anyone have a good repeatable method of drop-tubeing bp or something they have built that drops powder into the tube?

[montana_charlie]

I just tap-tap-tap the scale pan so that powder trickles out of it, and into the funnel on the drop tube. After doing it a bunch of times, you can get pretty consistent about how fast it transfers to the tube.

I think I am close to having a reliably consistent load for my paper patched bullet. Soon, I will mess with a small selection of variables to see (1) if the load can be improved and (2) if something easier has (or doesn't have) a detrimental effect on accuracy.

If vibration proves as good as drop tubing I will abandon the tube. Then, if just dumping powder in the case has no ill effect, I will forego the vibrating, too.

Initially, I will pay more attention to chronograph readings than group size when evaluating this aspect of the load.

CM

[bigted]

i do it like charlie does...dribble the powder into the drop-tube directly from the scale pan. it is easy and if i set the drop-tube on my short stand then i dont have to stand everytime i use my 24 inch drop-tube.

as for the 'need'...i just recently did a experiment again as to the amount of powder contained in the case compared to just dribbling it into the case directly[[without the drop-tube]]. on a 38-55 case...i can always get 4 to 7 more grains with the drop-tube done in the manner in which is described.

[Boz330]

I have an article at home for building a vibrating drop tube. I think it came from the ASSRA magazine. The powder is dumped into a funnel with a very small hole in it (1/8). That funnel is vibrated to trickle the powder into the second funnel attached to the drop tube. The guy who wrote the article had some pretty thorough numbers to back up his claims. Been meaning to build one as soon as I get round-to-it. The nice thing is that you can be getting the next charge while the previous charge is trickling.

Bob

[tcoupe24]

I used a brass tube made a small copper funnel and soldered it to the top of the tube, built a wooden stand for it. I just measure the powder and pour it from the pan into the funnel and down the tube it goes into the cartridge case. Works great it seems I get more into the cartridge by drop tubing than I do vibrating or tapping. I have some pretty accurate loads so it must work.

[oldracer]

Since I use the same powder measure for smokeless and black powder and that is a RCBS unit with the green plastic hopper and a threaded insert in the bottom for large or small plastic case adapters. I measured the threads and found they are 1/4 inch pipe (check yours to be sure) so I bought a 24 inch length of 3/8 inch rigid copper tube and silver soldered a short threaded fitting to the top. I screw that into the powder measure when loading the 45-70 cases and so far has worked quite well. No build up inside and the cases are loaded by volume quite evenly!


Now I know I have mentioned several possibly contentionable items such as plastic/steel powder measure, loading by volume and so on, they have not proven to be an issue.

[Seth Hawkins]

I just dump mine directly from the pan into the funnel of my 24" drop tube. I do it in one quick motion. I think it's easier to duplicate dumping the powder in one quick motion than it is to try to consistently dump the powder at some slower speed.

It might not be the best way, but it's been working for me so far.

[Ed in North Texas]

A long time ago I vibrated some smokeless loads in what I thought was an easy way. Got an old Remington electric razor and put the case on the razor body to vibrate the powder down. Worked great and no need to make anything. These razors may not be as common as they once were (I use a blade razor, so what do I know), but I'm sure there are lots still around in junk shops and GROJ * sales.

* Get Rid Of Junk

[Hogpost]

About like Ford versus Chevy pickups, BP reloaders are either Drop Tubers or Vibrators. Me, I'm with Ed: vibration is easy, consistent, and usually cheap. You can hold the case against almost anything that buzzes enough to feel, like a vibratory case tumbler, an old electric razor, an electric engraving tool. You can even rap the case on the benchtop a few times, but that's hard to keep consistent. I started out with a "personal vibrator" :oops:

Whatever you do, do it on one case until the powder in the case drops no further, then do exactly the same for every following case: consistency is accuracy.

[martinibelgian]

Drop your powder in a case, then smartly pour out the powder in the droptube on top of your funnel. Easy, consistent - maybe not giving you max compaction, but more than good enough.
At least, that's how I do it...

[zardoz]

Remington side burn and mustache trimmer! Wish they made BPCR powder settling attachment....:-P

[Blackwater]

I got some 1/2" OD copper tubing from the home supply store, belled the end slightly with the plumb bob thingie, straightened the tubing by rolling on the counter and straightening, and then placed my RCBS powder funnel over the top (non-belled) end. It's 3 ft. long and was cheap, quick and easy to make, and it compacts the powder well in the cases. To use, I just place a tray of prepped and belled brass on the floor, place the belled end over the .45/70 cases, drop a dose of powder from the measure into the scale pan, and then trickle pour the charge into the funnel. As it travels down the tubing, something happens that makes the powder level more consistent and more compact, though I'm not sure exactly how that works.

The soft copper tubing is easy to repair if it ever gets bent, and the fact that the powder funnel fits on it so nicely is a plusk. FWIW?

[WARD O]

I also built a long drop tube from copper tubing. I attached the copper tube to a board (stand) with eyebolts so it slides up and down and installed a powder funnel on the upper end . I use a rubber o-ring to hold the copper tube at the desired height. I also belled the lower end of the tube to fit over my cases. I attached a small wood block near the bottom of my stand and drilled a recess in it to accept my cases. I mounted this to the side of my reloading bench.

I use a Hornady black powder measure to throw 19 charges into cases in my loading block. I then move to the long drop tube and place the 20th case under the lower end. Grab one of the cases with the dumped powder charge and trickle it into the long drop tube. When done simply rotate the now empty to under the tube and the filled ready to load case to the loading block and repeat.

Runs pretty smoothly for me....

Ward

[bigted]

two very cool procedures for drop tubing. thanks for sharing these interesting likes for drop-tubing. makes me want to build another tube that is longer then the 24 inch i currently have just to see if the extra 12 inches settles the powder more so i could drop more powder in my cases.

thanks again for the interesting ideas.

[.452dia]

Question??? MY drop tube is smaller that the mouth of my cases and will easily rest on the bottom of the case. Should you keep the tube at the top of the case or let it enter the case and raise it as you pour the powder?

[montana_charlie]

Should you keep the tube at the top of the case or let it enter the case and raise it as you pour the powder?
I don't know if anybody can say what SHOULD be done, but ...

My tube is hobby shop 3/8" brass, which fits inside the mouth of .45 cases.
It is adjusted so about an eighth inch of tube enters the case mouth, and a rubber ring (in contact with the mouth) makes sure that powder granules cannot 'splash' out.

When all of the powder has entered the case, it will remain in position until the wad is seated and the charge compressed.

It will not be 'disturbed' when pulling the tube out because all of the charge is below the end of the tube.

I don't know if 'undisturbed' is important, but that's the way I do it.

CM

[martinibelgian]

Question??? MY drop tube is smaller that the mouth of my cases and will easily rest on the bottom of the case. Should you keep the tube at the top of the case or let it enter the case and raise it as you pour the powder?
PLEASE, PLEASE don't start overthinking and over-engineering things - just get the damn powder in the case without it staying in the tube, and do it always the same way. And no, you don't have to hold your tongue in a certain position between your teeth either. Loading BP cartridges is simple - make sure it remains simple...

[deadwooddick]

Seems folks measure powder and use a drop tube that charge into their case(s).

Is there any real advantage to metering a load (by volume) w/ a powder measure (Lyman #5) and bringing all to "exact" weight by dribbbling additional BP into scale pan… before drop tubing ?

TIA,
Richard

[WARD O]

What are you shooting? If you are involved in serious accuracy competition then you might benefit from exact weight powder charges - if you are into serious long range accuracy you will likely benefit. If you are shooting 300 yards or less you will see very minor benefit from weighing every charge.

If you have never tried a black powder measure like the Hornady, you might be surprised at how well it does it's job repetitively! As with all powder measures, you must develope a routine or rhythm. I try to bump the handle on both ends of the stroke each time to keep the powder evenly settled and even on large charges it is surprisingly accurate.

Not all powder measures should be used for real black powder. Black powder measures usually use brass or aluminum as the moving components in an attempt to avoid any chance of static electricity or a spark to ignite the powder.

Ward

[montana_charlie]

Seems folks measure powder and use a drop tube that charge into their case(s).

Is there any real advantage to metering a load (by volume) w/ a powder measure (Lyman #5) and bringing all to "exact" weight by dribbbling additional BP into scale pan… before drop tubing ?
Some use a drop tube to get more powder in the case. The settling which takes place alows for a greater amount.

Others drop tube to cause the powder to settle into a consistent density powder column. The purpose is to help lower shot-to-shot inconsistenties that affect Extreme Spread and Standard Deviation in velocity.

Usually, people who use a tube for the latter reason also weigh each charge precisely.

CM

[kokomokid]

Thanks for all the input. I have to drop tube to get 70 plus grains into a 40/65. Seems the slower ,the better uniformity between loads. I drop every load out of a redding then weigh each with 70% or more on the money. If light or heavy they go back into the hopper. Faster than changing amount of powder in the pan and keeps volume the same. I just thought someone might have made a better mouse trap.

[mazo kid]

Here is one I put together a few years ago using scrap I had. It is cheap, easy to make, and adjustable for different cartridge lengths. Someday I may even get around to finishing it....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/mazokid/Droptube1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/mazokid/Droptube2.jpg

[.452dia]

PLEASE, PLEASE don't start overthinking and over-engineering things - just get the damn powder in the case without it staying in the tube, and do it always the same way. And no, you don't have to hold your tongue in a certain position between your teeth either. Loading BP cartridges is simple - make sure it remains simple...

I asked a simple question and expected a simple answer. At the least I expected to elicit a straightforward opinion from folks that know. I may ask many questions or elicit opinions on things that have a grey area. This seems to be a great forum and I enjoy reading the posts from most folks. I'm not new to shooting BP, BPCR's or casting bullets. I don't consider myself an expert but I'm not a newbi either. I'm 63 ayears old and have been shooting since I was 8 and reloading and casting since I was 14. I don't need the extra Bull**** Words of Wisdom, just a straightforward opinion or answer would be appreciated.
Thanks,