Old Model TC Contender Action Question

[ejcrist]

I have an older model Contender action that I just ordered a barrell and grips for. This is my first go around with a Contender so I was reviewing a set of instructions for an older model to familiarize myself with it before the parts come in. The particular set of instructions I've been looking at was for the model that had the external manual firing pin selector on the hammer, which is slightly different from the action I have that has the screw selector on the face of the hammer for rimfire/centerfire.

Per the instructions, there's an internal hammer lock that acts as a safety preventing the hammer from striking the firing pin(s) unless the trigger is pulled. I can tell the hammer lock is in place because I can see a gap between the hammer and firing pins. My question: does the grip and/or barrell have to be installed before pulling the trigger will lower the hammer lock to enable the hammer to strike the firing pin(s)? The reason I'm asking is because I pulled the spur back a couple of times, pulled the trigger, and let the hammer down easily with my thumb to see how everything worked, but when I did this the hammer lock stayed in the "safe" position and the hammer didn't contact the firing pin(s). I'm guessing the barrell probably makes contact somewhere in the action so the hammer lock knows all systems are go and it's ok to let the hammer do it's thing, but I don't know for sure. If anyone could let me know or point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.

Thanks, Gene

[uscra112]

Grip is neither here nor there, but yes, the barrel must be in place and locked. The bolts on the barrel push a little safety block out of the way of the hammer block so it can drop when the trigger is pulled.

BTW that hammer block caused me a couple of months of headscratching when I first had my Gen 1 Contender. Abundant misfires, always light strike on the primer. Totally random, binary state - either a good hard strike, or a weak one.

After reading all the horse hockey on certain sites written by so-called "Contender experts", I found that the only problem was the little spring that drives the hammer block down when the set trigger fires. The spring needed a little more oomph to accelerate the hammer block fast enough to get it completely out of the way. A 30% stretch of that spring, to increase the preload, was all it took to eliminate the problem. And do not let any oil or gum build up in the slot that it runs in. Lube with Dri-Slide only. WD-40 in a pinch. In the end I put the stock hammer spring back - the heavy one that was sold to me as "the magic fix" only exacerbated the problem.

And if you get curious and dismantle the thing to see how this all works, be real careful not to lose any of those springs! They're small, they like to jump out unexpectedly, and they can hide in plain sight! Just ask me how I know . . .:rolleyes:

I love my Gen 1! That set trigger is very much to my liking! Just wish they'd kept it when they strengthened the action for Gen 2 and beyond.

[ejcrist]

Thanks much for the info. I can see the part that needs to be depressed to let the block fall, and by pushing on it just slightly the block comes down. Also thanks for the spring advice. If I have the same issue I'll be sure to stretch her out a bit.

Gene