Set Screws For Molds

[alamogunr]

After removing a sprue plate screw from a Lyman mold that I bought used and finding the threads really messed up, I decided to replace all set screws in my molds(at least the ones I use most) with brass tipped set screws. In an earlier thread someone suggested using a bit of cartridge brass under the set screw. I found that I couldn't snip a small enough piece to get into the hole. I know it can be done, I just can't do it to my satisfaction.

After much searching, I found a source of brass tipped set screws. In checking my molds, I find that I need the following thread sizes:

8-32 (NOE, NEI)
10-32 (Lyman, Ohaus, H&G)
M4X0.7 (MP)

5/16-24 cap screw (Lyman sprue plate)

Does anyone know of other sizes that might be needed for a kit of screws?

Someone may notice that SAECO molds are not mentioned. My SAECO molds are older and the sprue plate screw is centered front to back in one of the mold halves. There is a screw that looks like it is functioning as a set screw but it doesn't contact the sprue plate screw. It looks like there is a plug of some sort at the bottom of the hole. Can anyone enlighten me?

The downside of all this is that my obsessive compulsive tendencies are costing me $$. These things are expensive.


Sorry to put so much information in one post. After I add up the damage, I may decide to take my chances.

John
W.TN

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

this spring, I bought a lightly damaged mold at a Gunshow.
it was a Saeco that someone had started to drill out the
Handle mount screw from the mold...Not the one that holds
the sprueplate as well.

anyway, I finished the job, I was lucky
enough to finese the remaining piece of screw
with a left hand drill bit and some kroil.

I contacted Redding/Saeco, and they send
out some replacement screws and the
little brass plug (thread protector) of which you are asking.
Jon

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Some folks have successfully used a lead shot pellet to act as a plug and protect the threads. If some/any of those are not around, working a small piece of lead into a small cylinder...cutting a short piece off and dropping it into the hole should work; it isn't critical for the piece will get squished by the set screw and take the shape that is needed. There is nothing obsessive-compulsive about taking care of your stuff;just take a look at what happens to the things of the people that don't. LLS

[Pepe Ray]

I would be reluctant to do this even tho some seem to have done it successfully.
My solution is ordinary copper wire from a junk box.
#8 or #10 may be too large but #14, a very common size is found everywhere.
I cant believe that a home owner hasn't made some electrical adjustments with scrap wire in the trash (recycle bin).
The wire is easy to clip and very short pieces fit easily in the small set screw holes.
I do find it necessary to use tweezers to handle them. My old fingers need help.
Try it ,you'll like it!
Pepe Ray

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Pepe,
that's a great idea,
I never thought of that and I'm a Industrial Electrical contractor,
I have wire laying all over.
Jon

[Harter66]

#12 wire should be a good fit in #10 screws.

[alamogunr]

OK! I just got in from the shop. I decided to try the copper wire as a lock cushion. I did it a little different from what Pepe Ray intended(I think).

I had some #12 Romex (I'm a packrat, so I'm likely to have just about anything) so I cut off a 3-4 inch piece of the ground. I flattened it to about 1/32nd of an inch and cut off a very tiny piece. Rounded the edges on the bench grinder and placed it in the set screw hole. Replaced the set screw and set it securely.

One caution. It took about three tries at cutting off a piece of the flattened wire before I learned that I needed to score the wire, then break it off with a small needle nose pliers. Trying to cut it with the side cutters just launches it across the room.

Thanks for the suggestion, Pepe Ray. Saved me some appreciable bucks. Now I can get in on another GB.

John
W.TN

[leadman]

I have found the set screw holes for the sprue plate screws in the Lyman molds are not threaded properly. Lyman must use a tapered starting tap as the end of the holes are too small. Even though it feels like the set screw is tight it is barely applying pressure to the shaft of the sprue plate screw. If you try to turn the set screw in all the way you will probably find it only goes in the hole for the sprue plate screw part of the way.
I use a bottoming tap to finish the job and my sprue plate screws stay were I put them.

[Catshooter]

alamo,

What Lyman mould uses a 5/16 x 24 sprue plate screw? Four holer? Must be.

You'll find that the one and two cavity moulds are either 10 x 36 or 10 x 32, depending on how old they are, the x36 being the older. This is sprue plate screw of course. Handle screws are 8 x 32 on the one & two holers, 12 x 28 on the four.


Cat

[JIMinPHX]

The Lyman 4-cav that I saw used a 1/4"-28 pivot screw. Some other screws that I've seen are shown below -

[old turtle]

Some old molds used 8-36 screws. This may pat of the problem as someone may have tried to use 8-32.

[alamogunr]

alamo,

What Lyman mould uses a 5/16 x 24 sprue plate screw? Four holer? Must be.

You'll find that the one and two cavity moulds are either 10 x 36 or 10 x 32, depending on how old they are, the x36 being the older. This is sprue plate screw of course. Handle screws are 8 x 32 on the one & two holers, 12 x 28 on the four.


Cat

Went back and checked the mold. It is a 4 cav. Lyman 358495, a button nose wadcutter. I must have bought it on a whim because it is pretty well used. The hole goes all the way through to the handle groove but it doesn't look like it is tapped all the way through. I've never used it, at least it doesn't look like I have. I've got other wadcutter molds that work well so I may just ignore this one.

Thanks for the info on screw sizes. To be prepared, I may have to buy a couple of Lyman repair kits. 10-36 and 12-28 are not common.

John
W.TN

[Dale53]

Lead shot works perfectly. Those who are worried about using lead in a bullet mould - bullet moulds routinely get up to about 450 degrees. Lead shot does not melt at 450 degrees. Much worry over nothing.

The lead conforms perfectly inside the hole. Further, it does NOT damage the threads. I have never had a problem after using the lead shot.

Dale53

[blackthorn]

One of the little brass balls cut off an old light pull-chain switch works just dandy!

[Echo]

+1 for the lead shot...

[JIMinPHX]

Lead shot works well for me too.

[alamogunr]

What I described above works even though it is more trouble than just dropping something in the hole. Also I don't have access to lead shot. I had considered buying a bag to use as alloying material but the benefits of that were very marginal. Around here Gander Mountain is the source and they price it like it had gold or silver in each pellet.

So, since I have more time than money, I will continue to do what I'm doing now.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

John
W.TN

[Catshooter]

Sounds like you've got it covered alamo. But if you do want a source of shot just get your hands on a shotshell and cut it open. They be lots 'o shot inside.


Cat

[alamogunr]

Sounds like you've got it covered alamo. But if you do want a source of shot just get your hands on a shotshell and cut it open. They be lots 'o shot inside.


Cat

I can think of all sorts of things EXCEPT the obvious. I've got shotshells in 00 and #4 buck but not in other sizes. I can get a shell from my duck hunting son.

[Catshooter]

I know just what you mean. I was hoping it would help.


Cat

[MGySgt]

I keep a piece of 12 gauge wire on the shelf next to my pots. I loose the set screw lock, I just cut another piece off.

Hint - turn the cutters so the small piece is down into the towell (or what ever your landing pad is for your hot boolits) and cut it. I use a pair of small needle nose pliers to pick up and put the piece of wire in the hole. put the set screw in and tighten down.

Works for me.

[MikeS]

Someone may notice that SAECO molds are not mentioned. My SAECO molds are older and the sprue plate screw is centered front to back in one of the mold halves. There is a screw that looks like it is functioning as a set screw but it doesn't contact the sprue plate screw. It looks like there is a plug of some sort at the bottom of the hole. Can anyone enlighten me?...

John
W.TN

John, when you tighten the setscrew does it lock the sprue plate screw? The plug you see could be a piece of lead shot that's been flattened out between the set screw, and the sprue plate screw. It's also possible that it's actually another setscrew, with the top one being a lock screw (to the lock screw!). Does the setscrew go in from the back (facing the handles) or the front of the mould block? I'm only asking, as I have several SAECO moulds, and some have the screw one way, and others have the screw the other way.