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pca16
01-09-2007, 10:50 PM
I'm Not Quite Sure Where To Post This, So Here It Goes.......i Am A Firearms Collector(handgun To Class Iii) Looking For A 1" Bullet Mold. I Have A 1934 Hotchkiss Ground Cannon (anti-tank Gun) That Fires 25mm (1") Ammo. As This Ammo Is Difficult To Obtain And M6 Powder Difficult To Obtain, I Am Going To Try And Fire Black Powder From The Gun Using The 25mm Brass Cases Fired By A Shotgun Primer. I Need To Be Able To Case 1" Bullets For The Round. Any Help Is Appreciated.

44woody
01-09-2007, 10:56 PM
easy go to a michine shop and have them make you a aluminum mould it would be a simple and easy one to make :castmine: 44Woody

imashooter2
01-09-2007, 11:16 PM
Group buy?

onceabull
01-09-2007, 11:40 PM
Nei #411 ????---

kodiak1
01-09-2007, 11:59 PM
GROUP BUY THAT'S FUNNY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Almost wet myself on that one imashooter2.
Ken.

rugerman1
01-10-2007, 12:02 AM
Maybe Smith & Wesson will make a S&W 1000,now that the S&W 500 is passe'[smilie=1:

Greg5278
01-10-2007, 12:23 AM
I think I might have a set of Aluminum mold blocks, that I made. If there is enough clearance, you could bore those. I made them specifically for the 12 gauge. Normal mold blocks will not be large enough. You would still need to have them bored to your specs. They are 90% done.
Greg

waksupi
01-10-2007, 12:26 AM
See the Jeff Tanner topic.

I see this is your first post! Welcome aboard!

357maximum
01-10-2007, 12:28 AM
????I'm not sure if i remember this or if my subconcius made it up,,,but I believe there is/used to be a mini downrigger ball mold that was close to 1inch...do-it or palmer made possibly????? Leave out the eyelets and trim the fins and sprue, as I doubt accuracy potential would be of little concern...


???A S&W 1000????....Holy batdung!!!! makes my wrist and ears hurt thinking about it....

Leftoverdj
01-10-2007, 01:23 AM
Interesting. Best to check true groove dimensions before doing anything expensive. If it really is 1.000, betcha you could case jacketed bullets using short lengths of copper pipe as both mould and jacket. Life is rarely that simple, though.

Buckshot
01-10-2007, 03:07 AM
..............Leftoverdj, I was thinking the same thing, only to use the copper or brass pipe for say, 2 bands. Almost like the rotating bands in field and Naval artillery.

...........pca16, how long would a projectile be? I'm thinking an aluminum block half would need to be about 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" x however long + 1". Closed the blocks would be say for a 3" long projectile: 3" (perpendicular to the parting line) x 2-1/2" x 4" tall.

...............Buckshot

Urny
01-10-2007, 09:54 AM
Welcome to our patch, PCA16. You wouldn't have any connection to the old Hotchkiss 25mm shooter at BALLS (Benevolent Artillery Loaders and Loafers Society) would you? They were a group of anti tank gun fans from the Los Angeles, California area, back in the sixties I think. IIRC they prefered 1" mild steel plate for targets.

pca16
01-10-2007, 02:11 PM
I Will Try To Provide A Picture Of The Case And Brass Projectile. No Connection To The California Shooter. I Was Also Wondering About The Chamber Pressure, Putting Lets Say Single F Blackpowder In The Brass Case? Brian

mooman76
01-10-2007, 03:56 PM
PCA16. Would 20mm powder work?
http://www.hi-techammo.com/

Johnch
01-10-2007, 08:54 PM
You didn't buy the one at Cabela's Dundee , did you ?
I was wanting that Soooooooooo bad .

Johnch

pca16
01-12-2007, 04:54 PM
I didn't know Cabela's sold Class III. This gun came from Ohio Ordnance. I have received some good advice from here. Thanks. Brian

azcoyhunter
01-12-2007, 07:06 PM
How about a Fishing sinker mold?

Clint

snowman
01-12-2007, 10:17 PM
Are you just looking for a round ball, or a bullet shaped mould.

If round ball, I think cannon mania sells the mould.

trk
01-13-2007, 12:13 AM
Some of the sponsors of the Blackpowder Mortar and Cannon forum on Graybeardoutdoors.com make custom moulds. I've seen a 3 or 4" round ball mould made by one which was excellent.

pca16
01-13-2007, 11:25 PM
I did some testing today. I am able to put 5oz of black powder in the brass case. I am not sure how much, if any, to reduce this charge to fire lead bullets. Today I used the 5oz charge but just plugged the end with cardboard. Any thoughts? I know that with my parrot cannon I reduce the charge by half when firing the 3" lead round, and use full charge for blanks.

crossfireoops
01-14-2007, 01:08 AM
Don't reduce it, load 100 to 110% with cannon grade, or 1 FG......that'll work, and you're not going to overpressure anything.

If you just have to reduce the charge, use a filler, cornmeal or such.......no airspace is a good way to fly.

Would love to see a chamber cast offa' that rascal.

GTC

pca16
01-14-2007, 11:20 AM
That is the concern that I have, with the pressure created with a lead round seated in the case. With my test it was able to make the gun recoil, but not enough to eject the empty case, but I think that since the original load was with M6 military powder with a velocity of 4,000fps, I am not able to create enough back pressure with black powder to eject the case from the breach.

Leftoverdj
01-14-2007, 09:09 PM
A jackleg rule is 1/3 the weight of the projectile for black. Another jackleg rule is 10% compression. Without claiming any special expertize, I'd reckon 4 oz or so of Fg to be safe behind a I" projectile weighing not more than a pound in a gun built for smokeless powder loads. I'd be willing to shoot it myself, but dunno I'm willing to tell you to shoot it.

Leftoverdj
01-14-2007, 09:21 PM
That is the concern that I have, with the pressure created with a lead round seated in the case. With my test it was able to make the gun recoil, but not enough to eject the empty case, but I think that since the original load was with M6 military powder with a velocity of 4,000fps, I am not able to create enough back pressure with black powder to eject the case from the breach.

Recoil is going to go way up with a projectile in place. You are never going to get anywhere near those ballistics with black, but you just might get a plinker that will cycle the action. Lead alloy bullets are not going to take but so much pressure anyway. You are going to need some sort of a gas seal on your bullet even with black.

wills
01-14-2007, 10:21 PM
One inch bore wall gun. Maybe these folks know where to get boolit molds for them.
http://www.therifleshoppe.com/complete_parts_sets.htm

There is this
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/munitions/images/xm307-25mm.gif

There were punt guns, one inch bore and up.
http://www.wildfowling.com/puntgun.htm

The old four bores were close.
http://www.african-hunter.com/4-bore_part_i.htm
http://airbornecombatengineer.typepad.com/airborne_combat_engineer/2006/03/the_4_bore_cart.html
http://www.cybertorpedo.com/africanhunter/firearms/4_bore_part01_01.htm

omgb
01-14-2007, 11:26 PM
When you get your 1" slug, try loading this way. Figure out how deep you need to seat the slug. Now fill that with powder to about 1/4" above that line. Use a drop tube 24-30" in length made from a length of brass tubing and a funnel. Drop the charge slowly but steadly. Compress with a wood dowel to 1/4" below that line for a total of 1/2" compression. top with a 1" wad cut from the back of a writing tablet. Add a marble sized wad of SPG BP lube and top with another card wad just like the first. Seat your slug and you're all set.

There is no way in heck that you are going to generate even 1/2 the pressure of a smokeless round so don't worry about it. The card wads will protect the base of the slug and the lube will help keep the fouling soft and managable. Use a slug cast from WW and go just below bore size. upon ignition it will slug up to full size no sweat.

crossfireoops
01-15-2007, 05:18 AM
So, I'm a ML BP artillerist.......( would love to have a Breechloadin' Hotchkis )
...........Is this particular rig a SEMI-AUTO ?

I'll get my camera runnin' and put up a pic or 2 of my 2 1/4" round ball molds, and cherrys...........fallin' off a log simple.

A 2 1/4" RB, outta' junk lead ( indeterminate alloy)...weighs around +- 600 gr. of 2 Lb.

I'm slingin' those outta' all steel ( Massive) tubes, in front of 1/2 lb of whatever anybody donates, at ronyvous......

Pressure is not an issue here.

If that rig is a semi auto ( and I don't know a thing about that particular gun), you might be well advised to disable that function........" Port it off"...or something.

BP is a hoot, but it'll sure get your equipment crusty.

GTC

crossfireoops
01-15-2007, 05:22 AM
Not much, but a start.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/robbinmyers/gracearty4.jpg

GTC

crossfireoops
01-15-2007, 07:36 AM
Ya' know, on reflection.......
I'd really like to build you a mold for that rig.....
Posting pics, here.....on the way
I'm for 7 oz. charges, meself.

GTC

pca16
01-16-2007, 01:26 PM
Recoil is going to go way up with a projectile in place. You are never going to get anywhere near those ballistics with black, but you just might get a plinker that will cycle the action. Lead alloy bullets are not going to take but so much pressure anyway. You are going to need some sort of a gas seal on your bullet even with black.

That is exactly what I'm looking for......a plinker that will cycle the action. What do you think about a seal. Will the SPG BP lube work as a seal also, as in post by omgb? Thanks Brian

Nice cannon picture. I'm a fan of the cannon..........

omgb
01-16-2007, 01:39 PM
What do you mean by a seal? I'm not quite following you here. The case will expand just as it does in a smokeless round and that will seal the breech. In addition, the slug will bump up to bore diameter and that will seal the powder gases. The wads and lube will protect the base of the slug and keep the fouling wet in that order.

BP has a sharp pressure curve. Upon ignition, the powder column will literally slap or pound the base of the slug. The slug will slump foreword as it resists movement and in the process, it will expand to fit the bore tightly. Works like a charm really. The fly in the ointment is that the powder grains at the head of the column tend to embed themselves deeply into the base of the slug. This plays hob with accuracy at the critical moment that the slug exits the barrel. To prevent this, the card wads are used. The first stops lube from migrating into the charge. As it is driven foreword, lube will be pressed out into the barrel. The cushion afforded the base of the slug by the two wads and the lube is more than enough to prevent it from being damaged by cutting or nicking from powder grains.

pca16
01-16-2007, 03:31 PM
The post refered to a seal on the bullet?

pca16
01-16-2007, 03:40 PM
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/pca16/100_0367.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/pca16/100_0366.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/pca16/100_0365.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/pca16/100_0364.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/pca16/25mmGun.jpg

Gun Photos

You are looking at a .50cal subcal. device in the gun.

45nut
01-16-2007, 03:59 PM
wicked cool..do you have a British Amored Veh there too? I see tracks and a flag on the fender.

pca16
01-16-2007, 05:30 PM
British VF432 APC

wills
02-01-2007, 12:09 PM
What about
http://www.neihandtools.com/catalog/1000-2150.jpg