Jeff Tanner round ball moulds

[Beerd]

Has anyone done any business with Jeff Tanner? He is an Englander who makes a real basic round ball mould. One cavity, no sprew cutter, aluminum blocks. Any diameter you ask for.

I think I need a 0.55" ball to use in my 58 cal (or 24 bore) smoothbore fusil.
A .535 with a thick patch is too loose, use a .562 and .012" patch material and it almost takes a hammer to get one down, so .55 should be just about right.

Anyway, back to my question. Do you have any first hand knowledge of Jeff?

Thanks.
..

[waksupi]

One of the guys at work got a mold from him. It was a ball for a 4 bore blunderbus. I believe he said he sent his payment to an address in the states, to avoid money tranfer fees, and the mold was here with in a couple weeks.

[montana_charlie]

His website...
http://www.jt-bullet-moulds.co.uk/

[madcaster]

I have bought several ball moulds from him,and they are really consistent,I mean even the 5 cavity .535" ball mould and the 6 cavity .395" ball mould.
i highly recommend him!

[shooter575]

I have one of his moulds and know others that have them.All the ones I have seen are brass. No sprue cutter on the single cavity ones I have seen. Nice thing is he will make you any size you want for the retail price of a Lee.

[RugerFan]

I have bought several ball moulds from him,and they are really consistent,I mean even the 5 cavity .535" ball mould and the 6 cavity .395" ball mould.
i highly recommend him!

Do his multi-cavity molds have sprue cutters?

[madcaster]

Yes,his multicavity moulds DO have a sprue cutter.If you view his website the 5 cavity .535" ball mould he made for me is-or was pictured there.

[joeb33050]

How do you get rid of the sprue? Side cutters would cut it off? Do you file or trim the sprue lump? These look like nice molds, I'd only need a single cavity.
Thanks;
joe brennan

[Ohio Rusty]

I find there is only a 7 dollar difference between his single mould and a Lee 6 banger with the sprue cutter. I'll probably end up getting the lee mould .... Buy american thing you know ...
Ohio Rusty ><>

[rfd]

jeff's brass ball moulds are Excellent, i've had Many in sizes from .310 to .595 and jeff's moulds are all i use for trad muzzleloaders.

nipping the sprue with cutters is no big deal, either, and the resulting balls will be quite accurate.

[Maven]

What rfd said!!!

[vagrantviking]

Yes,his multicavity moulds DO have a sprue cutter.If you view his website the 5 cavity .535" ball mould he made for me is-or was pictured there.

I don't see any multi cavity molds on the site now. Am I missing something?

Or just the obvious fact that this thread is 11 years old.....

[stubshaft]

I buy Jeff's molds when I need an odd size. I modified a side cutter to snip off the sprue.

[59sharps]

I have 2 of them ok brass. Had them for 5 years or so. They are now handing me a problem. Don't know why. They are sticking. I mean won't close w/o tapping on tgem and won't open w/o beating on the handles. I had no problem w them the time before last. I haven't droped them
Cleand before I put them away. No lead pr anything stuck to them.

[rfd]

maybe they're not clean enuf? if you haven't already done so, try a brake cleaner scrub.

i always leave the mould full, allow to cool, wrap in press'n'seal kitchen food/container wrap. all moulds - brass, iron, aluminum - are then ready to go for the next casting session.

[waksupi]

I have 2 of them ok brass. Had them for 5 years or so. They are now handing me a problem. Don't know why. They are sticking. I mean won't close w/o tapping on tgem and won't open w/o beating on the handles. I had no problem w them the time before last. I haven't droped them
Cleand before I put them away. No lead pr anything stuck to them.

I use some Bullplate Lube on the mold. Careful application with a Q tip. Keep it out of the cavity. I think synthetic chainsaw 2 cycle oil is the same thing.

[59sharps]

maybe they're not clean enuf? if you haven't already done so, try a brake cleaner scrub.

i always leave the mould full, allow to cool, wrap in press'n'seal kitchen food/container wrap. all moulds - brass, iron, aluminum - are then ready to go for the next casting session.

they should be. I did use brake cleaner on them before i put them away last year. they look clean no lead specks mating half looked and felt fine when i finished w them and put them together. I put the half's together and boxed them last fall. IDK just strange it was both moulds . No I did not mix half's
thought of that. one is a 685 the other a 715. wrong halves will not mate at all i tryed

[mooman76]

Sure it isn't the mould handles that is the problem?

[mazo kid]

Sorry to hear of your problems. I have 4 of his molds dating back over 15 years, no problems at all.

[725]

Jeff Tanner's molds are top in my book. I called for some odd-ball balls and he was dead on with sizing. One of my favorites is a .702 ball that I use in a 12 ga. I managed to work up a real zinger for hunting and will never look back. The mold is different but very, very good.

[59sharps]

Sure it isn't the mould handles that is the problem?
no been using the same handles on them since i have the mould. Even w handle remover the halfs are sticking. something changed since the last time I cast w them until the problem started. I just really need to spend more time w them. I plan on taking them w me to Va. and have a mold maker friend of mine look at them. I do like JT's moulds and prices and if I cant figure it out. i will order a new one. from him. ?? if brass molds are left in the open position while cooling is it possible could the warp? I may have left them open while cooling

[rfd]

i dunno if any mould will warp if left open to cool down after a casting session. i always leave the last cast ball in the mould, rubber band around the handle ends to keep it closed, allow to slowly cool on its own.