Boolit Sizing... When is it really needed?

[bigjason6]

Hey everyone, I'm very new to casting. I'm using a lee .401 six cavity mold. The boolits it's throwing is between .4005 and around .402 give or take a few ten thousanths. What I'm wondering is if that little bit really warrents sizing. Thanks!

[462]

Welcome, Bigjason6,


The first thing you need to do is slug the barrel and measure the groove...the high part of the slug. The groove dimension will determine if the boolit needs sizing. Typical, the boolit will need to be .001" to .002" larger than the groove.

Your measurements are critical, and should be made with a micrometer, rather than a caliper.

[blikseme300]

Hey everyone, I'm very new to casting. I'm using a lee .401 six cavity mold. The boolits it's throwing is between .4005 and around .402 give or take a few ten thousanths. What I'm wondering is if that little bit really warrents sizing. Thanks!

Bigjason,

Welcome to the world of boolits.

What really sucks is when you are at the range and your pistol fails to go into battery when a out of size round prevents the action from going into battery. I have had this happen to me during a contest.

Sizing boolits is much more than just doing things. It helps to establish consistency. Consistency establishes a base line for you to work from as it eliminates the out of normal.

I hope you are aware that the 40S&W is not the easiest round to start your reloading experience. Be careful as it can bite if done wrong. It would help if you let us know what pistol you are intending your reloads for.

Bliksem

[imashooter2]

Boolits need sizing when they are too large to allow the brass to release them in the chamber they are to be fired in.

The debate over whether distorting a boolit twice is better than distorting it once may now commence. ;)

[bigjason6]

Oh lord, what did I start? lol

Right now what I'm shooting is a Springfield XD40 with a 4" barrel and a Beretta CX4. I'm doing my reloading with a Hornady L&L AP press with Hornady dies. I have not fired any of my cast bullets yet, but I've fired about 300 of the 500 lead bullets I got from my local gun store. One thing I do as I'm running them through the press is I look into the casing to make sure it's not double charged or under charged. Another thing I do is weigh the charge of around every 10 or so rounds to make sure the powder thrower is spot on. After I get done reloading for the night, I'll grab about 30 or so rounds at random and check the OAL with a pair of calipers and run them through a lyman headspace gauge to check for proper head space and diameter. Am I doing the right thing by doing all that or am I just being anal? Before I get flamed for starting metallic reloading with a progressive and not a single stage, I just want to say I have a bit of experience with progressive reloaders in the shotgun field. Thanks!!!

[imashooter2]

It is difficult to argue that a person is being too safe.

As for me, when loading on a progressive, I weigh the last charge dispensed every time I refill primers (and before that bin is thrown into the bulk storage container). I check OAL of the last cartridge to fall in the bin on the same interval. I rarely use a head space gauge on rifle rounds and never on pistol.

[noylj]

I have not found a need to size a bullet in 25+ years.
The only reason you HAVE to size a bullet is if the diameter plus case walls is larger than your chamber. I have never had this happen.
I shoot 0.452-0.454" bullets in my .45s, 0.401-.402" bullets in my .40s, and 0.356-0.358" bullets in my 9s and .38 Supers.
If you are using a Lubrisizer, I simply got sizing dies the same or 0.001" larger than the as-cast bullet. I gave that up for pan lubing and now I simply tumble lube. Start easier and work out what works for you. Maybe all you need is to tumble lube as-cast bullets, maybe not for a specific gun. It is all related to your barrel's groove diameter and chamber size.

[rbertalotto]

You HAVE to size if you are concerned with absolute accuracy. If you arew loading handgun ammunition for plinking, I'm sure you can get by with "load as dropped".....But if you are loading for accuracy, the bullets absolutly need to be exactly the same, or as close as possible, in size and weight.

[357shooter]

If all your bullets chamber without sizing, reliably, you don't "have" to size. For the size your bullets are dropping at, sizing would catch the rare oversized bullet, for example: if the mould wasn't fully closed. If that should ever happen.

So unless something changes, you don't have to size. If you start to run into some that don't chamber, than that would have to be addressed.

What bullet are you casting and what lube are you using? The Lee tumble lube bullets are designed to not need sizing, in general.

The bottom line: The proof is in the shooting, no leading and good accuracy are what matters ultimately. You'll need to work through any issues, if they come up. At this point it's all advice based on experience, which is good. However, guns have a mind of their own and don't always agree.

[Bret4207]

You HAVE to size if you are concerned with absolute accuracy. If you arew loading handgun ammunition for plinking, I'm sure you can get by with "load as dropped".....But if you are loading for accuracy, the bullets absolutly need to be exactly the same, or as close as possible, in size and weight.

I disagree with the way you stated that. It might be more accurately put the often it's best to size properly to fit the guns needs. Improper sizing does more harm than good.

[imashooter2]

You HAVE to size if you are concerned with absolute accuracy. If you arew loading handgun ammunition for plinking, I'm sure you can get by with "load as dropped".....But if you are loading for accuracy, the bullets absolutly need to be exactly the same, or as close as possible, in size and weight.

For absolute accuracy boolits need to be cast as nearly identical as possible. Jamming an oversize or off center boolit through a sizer orifice does not miraculously make it symmetrical and in balance. It simply distorts the boolit and moves the metal to another location.

The primary benefit of sizers is convenient application of lube and checks.

[btroj]

I disagree with the way you stated that. It might be more accurately put the often it's best to size properly to fit the guns needs. Improper sizing does more harm than good.

I agree with the way Bret put it.

I would rather have large enough bullets with some variation in size, but all large enough, than to have consistent size bullets that were all too small for good fit. The barrel will do a fair bit of sizing down but it doesn't do very well at increasing bullet diameters.
You need to size , well, when you need to. I size down when the bullet is later than it needs to be or if it is large enough to cause chambering issues. Don't size ore than is required and if you can get away with not sizing at all then do so.

[357shooter]

The original poster provided the size of the bullets, and the caliber & gun info in posts 1 & 6. He's looking for guidance in his gun, with his bullets. Not throwing out a generic "when is sizing needed" question akin to "why is there air". At least that's the way I read it.:killingpc:killingpc:killingpc

[imashooter2]

The original poster provided the size of the bullets, and the caliber & gun info in posts 1 & 6. He's looking for guidance in his gun, with his bullets. Not throwing out a generic "when is sizing needed" question akin to "why is there air". At least that's the way I read it.:killingpc:killingpc:killingpc


And that question was answered. Now we're on to bigger and better things in the grand tradition of the Cast Boolits Forum.

[357shooter]

And that question was answered. Now we're on to bigger and better things in the grand tradition of the Cast Boolits Forum.LOL, let the tradition continue. :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

[blackthorn]

AND---there you have it --- The unanimus answer to the original question is --- MAYBE!

Have a great day!

[Char-Gar]

Boolits need sizing when they are too large to allow the brass to release them in the chamber they are to be fired in.

The debate over whether distorting a boolit twice is better than distorting it once may now commence. ;)

I can't let that stand without a comment. Bullets need to be sized to fit the rifle barrel throat and barrel grooves. If accuracy is an issue, bullet fit to the barrel is king.

Somewhere, along the way on this board, some folks have gone to seed on the ID of the fired case neck, thinking it is more important that is is. This dimension is not unimportant, but it is also not a primary determiner of what does, and does not make for accuracy cast bullet shooting. It is a secondary issue at best.

I don't want new cast bullet shooters to fall into the notion that this idea has more merit that is justified.

I am talking rifles here! Revolvers present a different issue.

[imashooter2]

I can't let that stand without a comment. Bullets need to be sized to fit the rifle barrel throat and barrel grooves. If accuracy is an issue, bullet fit to the barrel is king.

Somewhere, along the way on this board, some folks have gone to seed on the ID of the fired case neck, thinking it is more important that is is. This dimension is not unimportant, but it is also not a primary determiner of what does, and does not make for accuracy cast bullet shooting. It is a secondary issue at best.

I don't want new cast bullet shooters to fall into the notion that this idea has more merit that is justified.

I am talking rifles here! Revolvers present a different issue.

There is a difference between need (something that must be done to avoid a dangerous condition) and what may be done to increase accuracy from a particular boolit in a particular gun. I agree that a boolit must fit the rifle throat and grooves for best results. A boolit that does that as it falls from the mold is most accurate. Any additional deformation decreases accuracy.

[rbertalotto]

I would rather have large enough bullets with some variation in size, but all large enough, than to have consistent size bullets that were all too small for good fit.

Simply amazing! Can you imagine what this does to velocity.

And of course we are talking about sizing boolits to the PROPER size.......I can't imagine anyone would think sizing a boolit down smaller that what the barrel calls for is a good idea.........

But then again, ...........................:groner:

[imashooter2]

Simply amazing! Can you imagine what this does to velocity.


Have you done research or are you just imagining?

[Char-Gar]

There is a difference between need (something that must be done to avoid a dangerous condition) and what may be done to increase accuracy from a particular boolit in a particular gun. I agree that a boolit must fit the rifle throat and grooves for best results. A boolit that does that as it falls from the mold is most accurate. Any additional deformation decreases accuracy.

As a theory, I would agree that an unsized bullet is most accurate. But, my experience tells me it is theory that does not show up in my rifles.

I have fired bullets that required no sizing and sized bullets over and over again in a variety of rifles and I have yet to see any difference that could be attributed to size vs. unsized.

Perhaps, If I had some kind of bench rest rifle with bench rest loading techniques I might see some difference, but in my sporter and military rifles I have yet to see it at the range.

There is a very big difference is how you size a bullet. I have seen this numerous times at the range. Bullets bent in a base first sizing contraption, don't hold a candle to bullet size in a nose first push through sizer.

I am also not convinced through experience that case necks MUST expand to prevent a dangerous condition. I have fired many rounds, where the fit of the round allowed no room for the case to expand. I have never noted any additional pressure signs, but I do operate at rather low pressure with cast bullets.

None-the-less, as you say there is a difference between need and must. Therefore, I will neck turn cases to give clearance, if that is what is needed to be safe. When it comes to safety, I try and follow theory even if it has not proved an issue in my rifles. It may be perfectly safe, until that one round when it isn't.

[imashooter2]

As a theory, I would agree that an unsized bullet is most accurate. But, my experience tells me it is theory that does not show up in my rifles.

I have fired bullets that required no sizing and sized bullets over and over again in a variety of rifles and I have yet to see any difference that could be attributed to size vs. unsized.

Perhaps, If I had some kind of bench rest rifle with bench rest loading techniques I might see some difference, but in my sporter and military rifles I have yet to see it at the range.

There is a very big difference is how you size a bullet. I have seen this numerous times at the range. Bullets bent in a base first sizing contraption, don't hold a candle to bullet size in a nose first push through sizer.

I am also not convinced through experience that case necks MUST expand to prevent a dangerous condition. I have fired many rounds, where the fit of the round allowed no room for the case to expand. I have never noted any additional pressure signs, but I do operate at rather low pressure with cast bullets.

None-the-less, as you say there is a difference between need and must. Therefore, I will neck turn cases to give clearance, if that is what is needed to be safe. When it comes to safety, I try and follow theory even if it has not proved an issue in my rifles. It may be perfectly safe, until that one round when it isn't.

I understand your points and do not disagree with them. A properly sized boolit is distorted very little by the process and it would take exceptional equipment and talent to see the difference.

[rbertalotto]

Have you done research or are you just imagining?

Yes....An oversized boolit will develop a much different pressure curve than an undersized or "correctly" sized boolit. Therefore velocities will vary, sometimes wildly depending on the hardness of the lead and the amount of bearing surface.

[singleshot]

It makes me wonder how much difference it makes. I was loading HS-6 in my 45 acp shooting 252gr cast. The difference between .453 as cast and .451 sized boolits made a huge difference in reliability, but a very small difference in group size or POI from 25 yards. I must admit I never chrono'ed them...

The reason I started sizing them was to eliminate the 1 round in 10 FTF's.

[williamwaco]

================================================== ==

Boolits need sizing when they are too large to allow the brass to release them in the chamber they are to be fired in.



================================================== ==

Everything you read here about bullet size relative to bore size IS important.

That said. In my experience the idea that you can shoot handgun bullets "as cast" ( without sizing ) is pure bunk. (Unless of course your mold is undersize for your caliber.)

I load for most handgun calibers from .30 to .45. None (repeat NONE ) of them will reliably chamber rounds loaded with "as cast" bullets from molds appropriate for the cartridge. ESPECIALLY if you are using military brass.

With commercial brass, about one in 10 to one in 15 will not chamber. Autoloading pistols are about the same.

This symptom is caused when a slightly larger bullet is loaded into a cartridge case with slightly thicker walls. ( All military cases have thicker walls.)

[btroj]

Yes....An oversized boolit will develop a much different pressure curve than an undersized or "correctly" sized boolit. Therefore velocities will vary, sometimes wildly depending on the hardness of the lead and the amount of bearing surface.

How big a variation are talking about in size with your "research"? I bet a .0005 difference makes no significant difference. If your unsized bullets vary by .0015 or more then I think the quality of the bullets may be in question or the mould is out of whack. Is the poor bullets the problem or the size variation?

Velocity variations also have been shown over time to not be a reliable indicator of group size. Many loads that shoot small groups may have a large SD and many with tiny SD's will shoot large groups.

I care about the size of the group on paper, not the size of the "group" on the chronograph.

[noylj]

Consistency is the hobgoblin of small minds.
You can take a problem and make it more consistent.
As-cast are more accurate in all my guns.
Sized are always less accurate and any sizing over 0.002" destroys my bullets.
I went through all of this in the '70s and '80s and simply try to get people to TRY as-cast and tumble lubed FIRST. If they don't work, then try pan-lubing. If they don't work, then you either have a major problem or maybe, for others, sizing might be the answer.
Many folks trim their semi-auto brass to be more consistent. All they are doing is eliminating the cases that would have given them much better accuracy.
One thing that all reloaders should do is experiment. Stay safe, but experiment and don't assume anything and don't believe anything that some magazine writer says.
They are like musicians--they have the crappiest sound systems, mechanics who have the worst maintained cars, etc.

[imashooter2]

Yes....An oversized boolit will develop a much different pressure curve than an undersized or "correctly" sized boolit. Therefore velocities will vary, sometimes wildly depending on the hardness of the lead and the amount of bearing surface.

Excellent! Please describe your research and methods. What do you use for pressure equipment that measures the curve rather than just peak? How did you set up your standards and statistical controls? What cartridges did you load?

[imashooter2]

================================================== ==


================================================== ==

Everything you read here about bullet size relative to bore size IS important.

That said. In my experience the idea that you can shoot handgun bullets "as cast" ( without sizing ) is pure bunk. (Unless of course your mold is undersize for your caliber.)

I load for most handgun calibers from .30 to .45. None (repeat NONE ) of them will reliably chamber rounds loaded with "as cast" bullets from molds appropriate for the cartridge. ESPECIALLY if you are using military brass.

With commercial brass, about one in 10 to one in 15 will not chamber. Autoloading pistols are about the same.

This symptom is caused when a slightly larger bullet is loaded into a cartridge case with slightly thicker walls. ( All military cases have thicker walls.)

Your argument is false on its face. There is no difference between loading a boolit that drops from the mold round at .451 diameter and loading one that has been through a .451 sizing die.

I load and shoot 5 to 7 thousand .45 ACP and .38 Special every year as dropped from the mold and film lubed. I have done so for a long time. I expect to continue doing so for many years to come.

You need to find out why your casting technique gives you so many oversize boolits. What you describe would be absolutely unacceptable on my bench and it should be on yours.

[rbertalotto]

Velocity variations also have been shown over time to not be a reliable indicator of group size.

ALL of this is a matter of degree. When shooting a 4" barreled handgun at 25 feet, certainly a lot of sins are forgiven.

When shooting a BPCR at 600 or 1000 yards, all the "little" issues are magnified. Group size at extreme distances will absolutely suffer if the velocity isn't as constant as humanly possible. Especially at the velocities a cast boolit shooter will be using. Being up or down 50fps with a 535g bullet traveling at 1200fps is a whole lot more of an issue than a 130 bullet traveling at 3000fps.


Please describe your research and methods. What do you use for pressure equipment that measures the curve rather than just peak? How did you set up your standards and statistical controls? What cartridges did you load?

I guess this is some kind of a challenge rather than a discussion? OK, I'll play (for a while)

When I first started shooting cast boolits, I didn't own any casting equipment. Like most folks I started by purchasing cast boolits from various vendors for use in short range handgun shooting. Mostly indoors as my indoor range does not allow jacketed boolits. Performance was fine, and the price was right.

But then I moved on over to Handgun Silhouette shooting. Things changed rapidly. Using sourced cast 7mm boolits out of my 7TCU just wasn't getting the job done. Lobbing those big lead slugs out to 200 meters wasn't working. I was missing rams and not very competitive.

A friend of mine was a bullet caster and he started supplying me with boolits that were "sized" for my 14" barrel. Amazing improvement. Both because the boolits were properly sized for the bore, were all exactly the same diameter, and the weight variation was much smaller than "manufactured" boolits.

Recently I've moved to BPCR. This is a whole new game and EXTREMELY challenging to say the least. After competing in High Power and years of successful Benchrest shooting, these BPCRs required a whole new level of respect.

Once again I was buying boolits. Very poor performance. I bought a better rifle of know quality. Still poor performance out to 500 yds.

I started talking to folks that had been playing the game for years and had their share of trophies to match. They all suggested that it was impossible to be competitive if you are not casting your own boolits and those boolits MUST be a perfect match to your barrel and rifle.

Therefore I got into casting boolits but at first I did not own sizing equipment. Like most I felt if I bought a real good mold and used excellent alloy, my boolits would be good enough..........Wrong!

The barrel NEEDS to be slugged and molds and sizing dies need to be custom made to mirror your results. Once I went down this road I could see dramatic improvement in the accuracy of both of my 45-70 rifles (1873 Sharps and 1885 HighWall)

As far as test equipment. A GOOD chronograph is all you need. Pressure is nice to know, but the object of the game is absolute low SD. And for testing this there is none better than an Oehler Model 35 Proof Chronograph with its three screens and absolute accuracy. I've owned one of these excellent chronographs for a few years. Used it for load development in my BR rifles. It really can cut down on load development, but that's another story.

How you size your brass, annealing, neck tension, powder drop, indexing cartridges as they are loaded into the chamber, Lube, Lube and Lube, blow tube, etc, etc, etc all become outrageously important in this BPCR game.

But none more important than how that lead boolit is pushed through the barrel and exits the muzzle.....exactly (or as close as possible) EVERY TIME. And the ONLY way to achieve this is to have boolits that are IDENTICAL in weight and size. (Or as "Identical" as humanly possible)

But all this said, back to the OP's thread. You only need to size your boolits if they don't physically fit in your gun and if you are dissatisfied with your accuracy.

If "good enough" is "good enough", then let's stop the gabbering and go have breakfast!

Thanks!

[imashooter2]

I guess this is some kind of a challenge rather than a discussion? OK, I'll play (for a while)
-snip-


So what you're saying is you didn't really do any research and you don't have the equipment even if you wanted to. Thanks for playing.

[Bret4207]

Your argument is false on its face. There is no difference between loading a boolit that drops from the mold round at .451 diameter and loading one that has been through a .451 sizing die.

I load and shoot 5 to 7 thousand .45 ACP and .38 Special every year as dropped from the mold and film lubed. I have done so for a long time. I expect to continue doing so for many years to come.

You need to find out why your casting technique gives you so many oversize boolits. What you describe would be absolutely unacceptable on my bench and it should be on yours.

Gotta agree. I shoot unsized, as cast, tumble lubed boolits all the time. They shoot great in a variety of handguns and rifles. No problems whatsoever. I have some guns that need some boolits sized, but it's not necessary in many of my guns with many of my moulds.

[Bret4207]

ALL of this is a matter of degree. When shooting a 4" barreled handgun at 25 feet, certainly a lot of sins are forgiven.

When shooting a BPCR at 600 or 1000 yards, all the "little" issues are magnified. Group size at extreme distances will absolutely suffer if the velocity isn't as constant as humanly possible. Especially at the velocities a cast boolit shooter will be using. Being up or down 50fps with a 535g bullet traveling at 1200fps is a whole lot more of an issue than a 130 bullet traveling at 3000fps.



I guess this is some kind of a challenge rather than a discussion? OK, I'll play (for a while)

When I first started shooting cast boolits, I didn't own any casting equipment. Like most folks I started by purchasing cast boolits from various vendors for use in short range handgun shooting. Mostly indoors as my indoor range does not allow jacketed boolits. Performance was fine, and the price was right.

But then I moved on over to Handgun Silhouette shooting. Things changed rapidly. Using sourced cast 7mm boolits out of my 7TCU just wasn't getting the job done. Lobbing those big lead slugs out to 200 meters wasn't working. I was missing rams and not very competitive.

A friend of mine was a bullet caster and he started supplying me with boolits that were "sized" for my 14" barrel. Amazing improvement. Both because the boolits were properly sized for the bore, were all exactly the same diameter, and the weight variation was much smaller than "manufactured" boolits.

Recently I've moved to BPCR. This is a whole new game and EXTREMELY challenging to say the least. After competing in High Power and years of successful Benchrest shooting, these BPCRs required a whole new level of respect.

Once again I was buying boolits. Very poor performance. I bought a better rifle of know quality. Still poor performance out to 500 yds.

I started talking to folks that had been playing the game for years and had their share of trophies to match. They all suggested that it was impossible to be competitive if you are not casting your own boolits and those boolits MUST be a perfect match to your barrel and rifle.

Therefore I got into casting boolits but at first I did not own sizing equipment. Like most I felt if I bought a real good mold and used excellent alloy, my boolits would be good enough..........Wrong!

The barrel NEEDS to be slugged and molds and sizing dies need to be custom made to mirror your results. Once I went down this road I could see dramatic improvement in the accuracy of both of my 45-70 rifles (1873 Sharps and 1885 HighWall)

As far as test equipment. A GOOD chronograph is all you need. Pressure is nice to know, but the object of the game is absolute low SD. And for testing this there is none better than an Oehler Model 35 Proof Chronograph with its three screens and absolute accuracy. I've owned one of these excellent chronographs for a few years. Used it for load development in my BR rifles. It really can cut down on load development, but that's another story.

How you size your brass, annealing, neck tension, powder drop, indexing cartridges as they are loaded into the chamber, Lube, Lube and Lube, blow tube, etc, etc, etc all become outrageously important in this BPCR game.

But none more important than how that lead boolit is pushed through the barrel and exits the muzzle.....exactly (or as close as possible) EVERY TIME. And the ONLY way to achieve this is to have boolits that are IDENTICAL in weight and size. (Or as "Identical" as humanly possible)

But all this said, back to the OP's thread. You only need to size your boolits if they don't physically fit in your gun and if you are dissatisfied with your accuracy.

If "good enough" is "good enough", then let's stop the gabbering and go have breakfast!

Thanks!

Then to return to your original assertion, that "You HAVE to size if you are concerned with absolute accuracy. If you arew loading handgun ammunition for plinking, I'm sure you can get by with "load as dropped".....But if you are loading for accuracy, the bullets absolutly need to be exactly the same, or as close as possible, in size and weight."

As others have noted there is zero difference between a perfectly cast boolit at .451 as cast and one sized to .451. In fact, unless due care is given during sizing, it's rather simple to distort a boolit into uselessness in a sizer. That's the point. A sizer does nothing to equal weight or length and can certainly affect roundness, shape, size, taper, nose form, etc. A perfect boolit dropped from a good mould that fits the guns GROOVE DIAMETER ( not BORE, that seems to confuse people) is not going to be improved by sizing. Lubing and gas checking are another issue.

See where I'm going with this?

[btroj]

You are also extrapolating your experience with BPCR to all other areas of shooting. That is a specific rifle type with a specific powder type. Not sure how that really correlates to my 1911 or 44 Mag SRH.
This is one of my biggest complaints - we see something that is relevant to one shooting sport ands suddenly decide it must be relevant to all of them. I bet the IPSC guys don't weight bullets, they don't anneal brass, they just cast lots of good bullets. They are in many ways the opposite end of the spectrum from BPCR so why would anyone think they have the same needs or requirements in loading or casting?

Bret said exactly what I was getting at. Right size is right size. Good mounds and good technique keep variations in diameter down. I will also say that I have seen too many people have very good results from pan lubing and shooting unsized bullets. They had good bullets at the right size from the mould.

Sizing is not a required function. In reality it only fixes the problem caused by a mould that throws over sized bullets for that application.

[pdawg_shooter]

There is a difference between need (something that must be done to avoid a dangerous condition) and what may be done to increase accuracy from a particular boolit in a particular gun. I agree that a boolit must fit the rifle throat and grooves for best results. A boolit that does that as it falls from the mold is most accurate. Any additional deformation decreases accuracy.

I size the 311284 down to .301 for paper patching, and it shoots right with jacketed in the 4 30 cal rifles I have. At jacketed velocities too.

[bigjason6]

Wow! Thanks for all the great information! You all really know your stuff! it appears that sizing my boolets are in my future. I loaded up a few rounds and tried to slide them in my go-no go gauge. It's a no go... Then I tried to chamber them in my pistol... Out of battery... Good thing I didn't load up a bunch of them. Thanks again everyone, this has been one serious learning experience.

[Wayne Smith]

I HAVE to size when I'm shooting a .315" boolit designed for my 32-20's in my Nagant. Run them through a .309" sizer and they work.