BXA Lathe Tool Post

[bstarling]

I've had my HF 12x36 for a while now and have found it to be a very nice lathe. It's day and night between it and my little 7x14. The one thing I was missing though is the QCTP on the 7x. I got a new BXA QCTP for the 12x and am now trying to mount it. I think the deal is to mill or turn the BXA base to fit the 12x compound slot, but am wanting to get a second or even third opinion before I screw up my nice new BXA tool post. The baseyblank that came with the BXA is a considerable chunk of steel and the one on the lathe is substantially smaller.

Anyone done this? Please help.

Bill:D

[dragonrider]

There should be no milling needed of the tool post. You may need to make a tee nut to fit your compound into which the center bolt will thread.

[lathesmith]

What dragonrider said is correct; you should just be able to modify the T-nut that came with your BXA toolpost and pretty much bolt it on. And yes, it is a big improvement, and well worth the effort.


lathesmith

[bstarling]

Thanks for the replies guys. My BXA has a plate the same size as the base of the TP and about 0.650" thick. This plate has threads that match the center bolt and the bolt does not extend past it. In order to make a T nut to fit, I would have to remove this base plate or make a longer through bolt.

Bill:confused:

[deltaenterprizes]

What you are calling the base plate is the "T" nut. It should have steps on 2 sides and a threaded hole in the center.

[bstarling]

What you are calling the base plate is the "T" nut. It should have steps on 2 sides and a threaded hole in the center.

Delta, I wish it were that simple, but there is no T-nut. the base is the same size as the base of the tool post. That sucker is 1.80"x1.50" . There is no "T" to it. I can see where I can mill it into at T, but want to make sure before I go off on a tangent and screw something up.

Thanks,

Bill

[deltaenterprizes]

The bottom plate should look like the "T" nuts you use on your mill to clamp things down but the diminsons will be so that it fits in thr slot in the compound, you do have a slot in your compound? I have seen some lathes that the post threads directly into the compound. It should be a loose fit so the tool post can be moved left or right as needed.

[bstarling]

The bottom plate should look like the "T" nuts you use on your mill to clamp things down but the diminsons will be so that it fits in thr slot in the compound, you do have a slot in your compound? I have seen some lathes that the post threads directly into the compound. It should be a loose fit so the tool post can be moved left or right as needed.

Thanks Delta. Right now that chunk of metal is just a rectangle without any machining except to square the edges. When I get done with it I'll have removed a bunch of steel and then it will resemble a T-nut.

Thank you everyone.


Bill:drinks:

[scrapcan]

Alot of the the qctp come with a nut BLANK. You have to make the steps in it. You can make yourself a t nut on the lathe by turning a circle of the dimension of the wide part of the compound slot, then turn a second step to fit the top slot of the compound. Kind of a shouldered flat washer affair.

Depending on what brand of QCTP you bought, the nut blank could be hard. I bought the AXA form CDCO and had to send the blank off to have it milled.

do a search for fitting QCTP to lathe compound. I think you will see some helpful stuff come up.

[scrapcan]

here is a link to some info with a few pictures

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/best-way-machine-qctp-base-205003/

[MtGun44]

Maybe the intent is to give you a blank "t nut" and you machine it for your slot.
If you have a mill this is pretty easy work.

Bill

[DCP]

I just milled my AXA tool holder for my Logan 10x24
I used a Sherline mill. I just took smaller passes
The piece of steel was the same size as the Tool holder when I started.
.
It was the 1st time I used a Mill. Lots of fun. It doesnt look too bad (I Think)
Ebay has them also just sreach t nut lathe

[deltaenterprizes]

A pic is worth 1000 words!

[bstarling]

Mine now looks like DCP's, but only on one side. Got to finish the other side and it will be on the lathe. There surely is a lot of metal that has to come off one of those things.

Bill

[theperfessor]

Well, they're designed to be one-size-fits-all and the only way to ensure that is to make it as big as the biggest slot it may have to fit. I use a three flute indexable carbide mill that leaves a square shoulder, I've done several for friends, none seemed all that hard, after all they're designed to be milled to size by the user.

[bstarling]

I've been out of town the past couple of days, but will finish the thing tomorrow. I guess my issue with the amount of steel to remove is that I have a mill/drill and it makes for slow going. These things are wonder drilling machines, way better than and drill press I've use, but as a mill they could use some improvement. So much for my whining!!

Many thinks to all for the input on this thing. I still have a lot to learn,

Bill

[JIMinPHX]

I think that milling the T-nut blank has been pretty well covered.

It is also sometimes necessary to build a spacer block to go under the tool post so that your tool heights can be brought to meet your spindle center line. Have you measured your tool holder height range as compared with your spindle center line yet?

[JIMinPHX]

These are a couple of examples of modifications that were made because of tool holders that were too high or too low for the lathe they were mounted on.

[bstarling]

Thanks Jim for the reply. This little project got on the back burner while I finish a single shot H&R 1900 to an inline muzzle loader conversion. I plan to get back to it in the next week or so. My wife says I'm like a kid bouncing from one thing to another. She's probably right, but it keep boredom away for sure.

The fact of the matter is, I haven't checked the height, but that certainly will be done. Thank you for the heads up.

Bill