Need Some Help With A Reloading Bench Design

[Bigscot]

I am in the process of building a Man Cave. A 20x20 insulated shop. In which I will move my reloading equipment. What I need assistance with is designing a reloading bench. I have an RCBS Rockchucker, a Dillon 550 and a Lyman 450. I have a metal plate I mount them to one at a time. Along with the accessories. I also have 2 MEC reloaders on separate boards.

As such, I am would like to see some of the benches and/or plans for the benches you use to get some ideas.

What would be a good height. I currently sit at a desk. Would bench height be better? And if so what height? I am 6'2"

Thanks for any input or ideas.

Bigscot

[94Doug]

Check around, there is a running sticky on this. A lot of great ideas!


Doug

OK, here it is: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=12392

[WILCO]

Check these out: http://reloading-bench-plans.blogspot.com/


http://www.americanrifleman.org/ArticlePage.aspx?id=1569&cid=34

[markinalpine]

One thought: Put wooden cross bracing between the studs at known heights, before you sheetrock, so you can bolt things to the walls. works better than wall anchors, or trying to locate studs afterwards with studfinders.
Mark [smilie=s:

And DON'T FORGET TO TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES!

[calaloo]

I am going to attempt to describe the construction of a bench that is cheap, easy to build, and is heavy enough that it doesn't have to be bolted to the wall. I have built several of them and they work very well. For tools you will need a drill/driver a hand held circular saw, a square, and a wood chisel. The bench is made from 4 X 4's, 1 X 4's and plywood. It is put together with drywall screws and glue.

First determine the height you want the bench to be, subtract the thickness of the plywood top 9 (two 3/4" pieces glued together = 1 3/4"). Then decide at what height you want a shelf. Cut four pieces of 4 X 4 the proper lengh for the legs (6 if there is to be center legs for a long bench). You are going to noch each leg so a 1 X 4 will fit flush with the surface of the leg. To do this use the square to mark the legs at the top and at the proper position for the shelf. The corner legs are cut on two ajacent sides, the center leg , if used, on one face only. Set the saw to cut a depth of 3/4". Carefully saw many slots to eat away most of the wood where the 1 X 4 will fit. Use the chisel to clean up the notch.

After all the notches are cut, cut the 1 X 4's the length you want and glue and screw them to the shelf notches. Use the square to to get every thing positioned square and plumb. Cut the plywood for the shelf and notch for the legs. Glue and screw the shelf to the 1 X 4 skirt. The top shoul hav a bit of overhang on the ends and as much as 4 - 6 inches on the front if using doubled 3/4" plywood. Just glue and screw the top to the unit and you are done.

[Gtek]

Ergonomics-yours! zipper to pants button, good for standing and on bar stool. screwed to wall for rock solid. Gtek

[Rmfcasey]

I used a 36 in. wide counter as my bench top. This allows me to put 12 in. shelves in the back and still have a 24 in. work area.
Congrats on the Man cave.
Rmfcasey

[nanuk]

for height, I like all my work benches to be about 4 fingers below my elbow, when I'm standing

When I was cutting meat, that height saved my back.

it is a good height for any workbench you will stand up by

as for sitting? I dunno... I don't like to set when working at the bench