lubing molds

[loader]

How often should you lube molds to prevent casts from sticking to the molds and what is the best lube to use?

[theperfessor]

BullPlate from the Bullshop, they're Vendor Sponsors here.

[loader]

So no need to lube the cavity?

[MtGun44]

NEVER lube the cavity. No soot or spray is needed or helps. Lee is wrong on this one.

Bullplate lube on alignment features, top of mold blocks and bottom of sprue
plate. VERY, VERY sparingly.

Bill

[bhn22]

lubing the cavity would cause poor fillout. The moving parts need lubrication, though.

[loader]

Good enough... thanks.

[btroj]

You will only lube the cavities once. You will then learn how to clean a mould really well. The lesson won't need repeating.
I lube the sprue plate and locating pins when they seem to need it. It is a feel thing.

[ColColt]

No mention of Kroil oil here?

[cbrick]

No mention of Kroil oil here?

Kroil it seems is a personal choice.

My personal choice is that with the exception of very, very little Bull Plate on the sprue hinge & alignment pins NO oil of any kind will get within 10 feet of one of my molds.

If a mold isn't dropping bullets its because there is a problem. Kroil or smoking a mold does nothing to correct the problem, these are only methods of attempting to cover up a problem.

I don't go to great lengths to clean my molds so that the first thing I do with them is put oil back in the cavities or get them filthy & plug up the vent lines with soot. If there is a problem I find the problem & correct it, not cover it up.

If others personal choice is to put oil in their cavities that's their choice. Not for me thanks.

Rick

[casterofboolits]

I've been using a dry graphite film spray lube on my sprue plates and top of the moulds to reduce lead smears for twenty five years. I had a casting business for over twenty years and cast and sold several million boolits.

The last can I got from Napa was pure ****. They changed the formulation. While I was at AutoZone buying some EVAPO-RUST, I asked the clerk if they had any dry film graphite spray. Nope, but we got this other stuff and showed me a can of Liquid Wrench dry spray lubricant. So I said "what the heck" and bought a can.

I used it on an H&G #275 09-125-SWCBB six cavity mould and a Saeco #929 38S-145-SWCBB and cast 2,600 of the 9s and a bit over 1,400 of the Supers. The stuff worked fantastic and I had no lead build up or smears on the sprue plate or top of the mould. Much better than the graphite spray.

At $5.49 + tax, it's half the price of the Napa graphite spray and I intend to buy a couple more cans just to have them on hand.

[loader]

Dry spray lube.... sounds cheaper than the bullplate.

[462]

Dry spray lube.... sounds cheaper than the bullplate.

That may be, but that one small bottle of Bull Plate will last more than a lifetime.

[btroj]

The Bullplate works so darn well. And it is cheap. If it was 20 dollars a bottle I might worry it but the cost is minimal.

As for not seeing Kroil mentioned maybe that is because many of us want out cavities clean. We know that works so why mess with it.

[montana_charlie]

Dry spray lube.... sounds cheaper than the bullplate.
Dry graphite aerosol works for 'spatter proofing' the outside of a mould, but Bullplate works (for that) just as well. Additionally, Bullplate is suitable for actual lubrication of pivots and alignment pins. The spray graphite is not really adaptable to those applications.

And, finally, considering the need for two coats and the waste from overspray, you will use ten cans of graphite before emptying your bottle of Bullplate.

I've been using Bullplate for a year. Before that, I had always used the aerosol graphite.

CM

[XWrench3]

NEVER lube the cavity. No soot or spray is needed or helps. Lee is wrong on this one.


for the most part, this is absoloutly true. however i have had to smoke a few molds to get them through their "break in" period. once broken in, you will NEVER, EVER want anything except lead in the caviry.

[Lizard333]

I don't lube my molds as a standard but I have used Kroil in my mold to try it out. Works good on some finicky molds where everything else failed. I compare the use of Kroil to seasoning on cast iron. Works very well. An added bonus is that is helps to prevent rust in your more humid climates. I don't have that issue, as it is plenty dry here.