Marble Sight

[jollynator]

I am preparing to make my pre safety 336 into my go to rifle. It has to be rugged, and accurate. It is already these things, but I want to ditch the buckhorn sights for better ones. But they have to be tough, simple, and accurate.

After looking at several possible sight combinations, I think I have settled on a Williams WGRS-336 for the rear sight and a Marble Arms fixed Bullseye for my front sight. I know, an unlikely candidate. Here is my reasoning:

The most dependable tool ever created was the anvil; it only had one part. I almost decided to install a Lyman 17 globe on the front ramp but decided that it had more parts than I wanted to keep track of, but I'm sure the quality is there. The WGRS sight is more simple than a Foolproof or Lyman 66, which also are good choices. I am looking for the least amount of moving parts possible to keep murphy's law at bay.

Is there any reason I should not use that fixed Bullseye sight as a front sight?

Thanks!

Jon

[pietro]

[Is there any reason I should not use that fixed Bullseye sight as a front sight?]

Yes - The Sourdough Patridge type front sight has been the Gold Standard for "Go-to" leverguns for longer than I've been alive (B 4 WWII).

K.I.S.S.

.

[Bret4207]

If you mean an aperture front sight by "fixed bullseye" then I would go with Pietros idea and get a simple post that suits you. An aperture front is great with bullseye shooting in good light but in anything less or for game shooting you have a front sight that you either can't see through or that blocks the target entirely. But, maybe you mean a round bead front sight which would be a whole 'nuther ball game. Could you specify what you mean or provide a link to the item?

[gnoahhh]

I'm going out on a limb here, but are you referring to the old sight blades Marble's made (and maybe still does for all I know) that have an aperture about 1/8" to 3/16" in diameter, usually rimmed with a gold-colored alloy (which they identified as being Isle of Pope alloy)? I have a couple of them in my collection and have been threatening to try one, but I just can't convince myself it wouldn't be a complete waste of time. Maybe I should just to get it out of my system!

Note: I actually Googled Isle of Pope alloy one time and there really was such a thing. Kind of a cupro-nickel alloy with a high enough copper content to give it a gold hue.

[jollynator]

This is it:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=679676

It is fixed and has a .150 inner aperture, not unlike several globe inserts have and gives a .438 rise which is just about right for the WGRS since all the stuff I've read suggests that the WGRS adds about 24 minutes to the trajectory. I originally thought about using the KNS reticle sight but thought those cross hairs might be a little fragile.

You guys picking up what I'm putting down?

Jolly

[Bret4207]

That's a REAR sight, not a front sight. In poor light you're not going to be able to see it.

[405]

While I shoot a lot of front sights with a globes or "globe like" apertures- they are, in my opinion, best suited for target shooting. For all my general purpose applications I like a simple, medium width front iron blade, patridge style used in conjunction with an aperture rear. For the rear, I like the older Redfield or Lyman type reveiver sights... the non-target knob style with the rounded screw slot adjustments with a medium sized aperture.

[gnoahhh]

This is it:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=679676

It is fixed and has a .150 inner aperture, not unlike several globe inserts have and gives a .438 rise which is just about right for the WGRS since all the stuff I've read suggests that the WGRS adds about 24 minutes to the trajectory. I originally thought about using the KNS reticle sight but thought those cross hairs might be a little fragile.

You guys picking up what I'm putting down?

Jolly

Gotcha. I guess there's only one way to find out if it will work for you. (I have my doubts though.) Won't cost much to find out.

The front sight I was referring to has an aperture like that inner one, mounted on a sight blade. I have my doubts about it's general usefulness too, but I'm inquisitive enough to try it out some day. Maybe.

My personal favorite is a standard receiver sight or tang sight, with either a gold sourdough-style front, or simple gold bead. (I routinely knock the fake gold beads off of my sights and solder on a small piece of real gold, filed to round 3/32"shape. No tarnish, low luster, excellent light reflector. Good use for the nasty old wedding band. Might have to get married again. I'm using this one up.)

[bigted]

personally i have the BEST hunting and knocking around site going! its been the site of choice for years going back to muzzle loading days. it is something like this...

get a FULL BUCK-HORN rear that is heart shaped with the top of the horns curled over and narrowly open thru the middle of the top. now remove the very small clip in the bottom notch that has the u and or the v in it. now use this like a peep site for a barrel mounted rear. want more elevation for a longer shot....use the close narrow space between the top horns as your sighting spot instead of the middle of the buck-horn opening.

for the front...i use a gold bead that is 3/32's inch for very fine shooting in fast hunting situations. they come in different heights to experiment with to bring your point of impact into what you want for your new "peep" style barrel sight.

this is just about the best sight settup ive ever seen...tough...low profile...historically looking...no moving parts...just pain ol shootin irons

both my m/l ers wear this kinda sett-up and two lever actions the same. my traditional hunter hi-wall will get the same treatment once i get the kinks ironed out accuracy wise

good shooting

[saltydog452]

The 17 AHB and 66 (?) MC were great for sniping crows and pine cones.

Age and time takes a toll on body parts, eyes included.

As a 'go to' maybe a stout winged front thats kinda like whats on a Garrand, a fold down blade midships, and a tang rear would pretty much cover all bets.

Keep posting and tell us your choices and how they work for you.

salty