Propane Tank Pot

[wtfooptimax200]

My brother is in the process of building our propane tank smelting pot. He will be adding the stabilizer ring from the top cutoff portion of the tank. I have seen posts recommending that holes be drilled in the stabilizer ring to allow for air flow. If we do not drill holes will we experience problems with flame quality? If so, how many holes are needed?

Thanks,
Branden

[Doby45]

I would go ahead and drill some hole 1/2" size at least or get creative and cut some Vs out along one edge and then weld that edge to the tank bottom.

[Von Gruff]

I made a 30lb casting pot from a small propane tank and I left a skirt on the bottom. That is I set the bottom of the pot up inside the side walls to allow the skirt to shield the flame from drafts. Apart from the slots I cut to go over the burners support bars, I never allowed any vent holes for the flame. I get a big boost in heat use without any detrimental flame flutter.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/001-19.jpg

Von Gruff.

[RobS]

As narrow as the stabilizer ring is I would imagine that it would be better to put holes in it so the rest of the bottom can be heated well. The pics below show a small skirt to keep the flame from running all the way up the sides but it does run pretty even with the sides. You can also see where the stabilizer ring was cut off and a person is giving up quite a bit of surface area if there isn't flame moving out from there. I would be pretty generous and evenly spaced with the holes to keep the rest of the bottom heated.

Here is the one I use:

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/Smelter-1.jpg

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/bottompourdesign.jpg

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/bottom-1.jpg

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/Side.jpg

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/top-1.jpg

[giz189]

Rob, would it be possible to show the end of the rod and the valve seat or tell how you made it? Thanks.

[RobS]

The rod is a concrete form steak that just happens to be about the same angle as a drill bit used to bevel the hole of the valve housing or valve seat. Lapping compound and spinning the rod in the valve housing was used to finish the mating surfaces. The housing was some solid round stock that was welded in the base of the tank. A hole was drilled through the solid stock and then the underneath side has a welded thread adapter for pipe fittings.

I'm working on some pics.

[RobS]

I wish I had a better photo but with the information I posted above and seeing a somewhat unclear picture may give you a pretty good idea. The smelter has a bit of lead in it right now so getting a better picture isn't going to happen at the moment.

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/flowrod-valvehousing.jpg

[wtfooptimax200]

Rob,

That is an awesome smelting pot. I may convert ours to that style to speed the process of filling ingot molds. Any information that you can provide on the pot conversion would be helpful. I do have two questions, though:

1-Does the linkage for the valve interfere with stirring flux and skimming clips?
2-Have you had any issues with leakage? I'd hate to have a pot full of lead decide that it wants to sudden drain out that hole!!! Can a valve be used as a fail safe or would the lead clog it?

Thanks,
Branden

[samdweezel05]

My question is, how do you make sure it is 100% empty before you start cutting it apart? Do you take the valve out and fill it with water?

[RobS]

Rob,

That is an awesome smelting pot. I may convert ours to that style to speed the process of filling ingot molds. Any information that you can provide on the pot conversion would be helpful. PM me if you have any issues or questions along the way. I do have two questions, though:

1-Does the linkage for the valve interfere with stirring flux and skimming clips?
No, it is basically like having any other bottom pour pot. The smelter is virtually split into two with the valve assembly being down the middle and stirring/skimming just has to be worked at in different angles.
2-Have you had any issues with leakage? I'd hate to have a pot full of lead decide that it wants to sudden drain out that hole!!! Can a valve be used as a fail safe or would the lead clog it?
I've never had any issues with the smelter leaking or gushing lead all over the ground. There is a I bolt at the top that is bent at 90 degrees to adjust the flow or can even be snugged down to stop all flow and keep the valve from opening. There is also the issue of keeping the spout underneith hot enough so the lead will flow when you open up the valve. Alot of this has to do with making sure the flame is extending out or is wide enough to keep the spout/pipe hot enough so the lead will not cool and stop flow in between pourings Having the skirt that extends to the outer edges of the shell helps with this issue.

Thanks,
Branden

....................

[giz189]

Rob, I thought that was the way you might have done it, but the seat was what I couldn't wrap my head around. How large of a hole did you drill in the round stock? Reckon about how many lbs of melt that critter will hold? I had just cut my tank when I saw your picture and I had been thinking about a valve so I did not have to dip it out with my ladle. It holds about 5lbs, but it is hard work after 2 or 300 lbs. Thanks for the info. Ricky

[RobS]

The stock is 1 1/2" and the concrete form stake is 3/4" with the precut point. The initial hole drilled through the stock is 1/2" and I don't know what larger bit was used for the beveling of the 1/2" hole for the concrete form stake to match up but it wasn't run very deep. Using valve lapping compound will be needed to make a tight fit between the two faces. If if can hold water it'll work for lead.

[RobS]

My question is, how do you make sure it is 100% empty before you start cutting it apart? Do you take the valve out and fill it with water?

A way to cut a tank is first make sure all propane gas product is removed and down to zero PSI (liquid and vapor). Open up a bleeder valve if it has one and let it set for a good while (day) Then a person can remove the service valve, fill full with water, dump, fill again, dump; the water will remove any residual vapor, purge with a non-flammable inert gas, and depressurize. I would probably fill it with water a few more times after letting it set for a day since I'm worrisome when it comes to these things. What ever green or oily mixture that comes out of that tank depending on the age is going to have a rank odor so it is better to do this a ways from where you others may be.

In addition to the rest above, if using a torch to cut then running a cars exhaust into the bottle before cutting would help push oxygen out and if a person is not comfortable using a torch there are other means to cut the tank in half.

[samdweezel05]

A way to cut a tank is first make sure all propane gas product is removed and down to zero PSI (liquid and vapor). Open up a bleeder valve if it has one and let it set for a good while (day) Then a person can remove the service valve, fill full with water, dump, fill again, dump; the water will remove any residual vapor, purge with a non-flammable inert gas, and depressurize. I would probably fill it with water a few more times after letting it set for a day since I'm worrisome when it comes to these things. What ever green or oily mixture that comes out of that tank depending on the age is going to have a rank odor so it is better to do this a ways from where you others may be.

In addition to the rest above, if using a torch to cut then running a cars exhaust into the bottle before cutting would help push oxygen out and if a person is not comfortable using a torch there are other means to cut the tank in half.

Thanks you for the response and I also have to say thank you to the couple of guys that sent me PM's based on my question. It's nice to know that their are still people out there that are concerned about other peoples safety.

I was aware of the dangers when it came to something like this and that's why I asked. I have done things like this in the past but I wanted to see if there was another way. Remove the gas and fill with water is pretty much it. Very similar to welding a gas tank.

[Ed K]

Can you just use the top of the tank with its' threaded fitting or is that too small?

[rockrat]

You could also put some pieces of dry ice in the tank, where you removed the valve, for an inert gas (CO2)