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kokomokid
06-19-2011, 05:18 PM
Got my knobloch glasses and it becomes very clear that I have developed bad habits in the cheek weld to stock department. Anyone care to share methods so an old dog might learn a new trick?

OLPDon
06-19-2011, 07:21 PM
Kokomokid;

A short thread give you basic idea of the hows and whys.
Link http://www.snipercentral.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=27813

Hope it helps I'm sure someone will chime in on this and give a more indepth answer.
Don

oldracer
06-19-2011, 10:39 PM
The response in the link is pretty much spot on. Here is what I had to do to my Italian made Sharps so I would automatically be looking through that 6x scope.

guninhand
06-25-2011, 04:15 PM
Hope I'm not hijacking the thread but....any suggestions on best thing to use for cheek weld when using peep sights out to 1000 yds? Something you place on the comb as shown by oldracer but adjustable. Buffalo Arms had a gizmo on their website once but I can't find it now. Idealy it would be adjustable as you shoot the longer ranges leading up to 1000. Are homemade ones the most common solution?

Tom-ADC
06-25-2011, 09:47 PM
guninhand check out accu-riser http://www.cabelas.com/stocks-grips-accessories-accu-riser-cheek-pad-strap-2.shtml?type=product&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleBaseUSA&WT.z_mc_id1=705857&rid=40&mr:trackingCode=0D0DDE51-F5D2-DF11-82EF-001B21631C34&mr:referralID=NA

montana_charlie
06-26-2011, 01:19 PM
...or...

http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=157928&CAT=4017

cajun shooter
06-27-2011, 12:42 PM
The best way to have the proper cheek weld is time on the gun/ with observer. We can't give ourselves the proper critiques. Some persons may feel they need a devise on the gun to make it work and others don't have to use anything. If you have a proper fitting stock then the cheek weld will be there from the start once you understand the correct movements that are taken when you shoulder the rifle. One of the biggest mistakes made by neophyte shooters is that they move the head off the stock to see the impact of the bullet. It has already reached the target when you try to see it and you just destroyed the weld. You should already be in the process of moving the bolt and your eye should be on the cross hairs as you come back from the recoil. This does not apply to all rifles however. The single shots like the Sharps, or Trapdoors take a different approach. You may have another shooter mark your stock once you are ready to pull the trigger. Take some tape and put it on this spot so that you may learn where your head is supposed to be. A old teaching trick.

RMulhern
06-27-2011, 12:47 PM
Standard low comb style stocks on the M1874 Sharps are the 'schitts' for shooting long range! The Shiloh LRE model as well as the Sporter #1 have higher combs and with the addition of a strap-on cheek-piece work quite well! It's damn nigh impossible to hit a barn door from 1000 yds. if your cheek isn't down solid upon the comb of the stock!!

martinibelgian
06-27-2011, 03:35 PM
Which is why I now have this...

http://users.telenet.be/Gert.Claes1/MatchZAR.jpg

It will get me a decent cheek weld at 1,000, while it is still workable at 100... Now it needs some polishing and blueing..

guninhand
06-28-2011, 07:22 PM
Looks like the cabela's or buffaloarms pads are what my browning BPCR needs. Tks for advice.