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charger 1
12-27-2006, 08:17 AM
Yep thats it, radially ,two small ones. If I fireform brass without annealing they can be seen in the finished product,and sometimes the neck will tear. If I anneal (which I guess I should be doin with win tin anyway) then we're ok. But I knows their there. Any sense trying to make a mandrel to polish, or just keep annealing, and ignore. The only thing I never liked about the annealing process is the ability, or lack there of to achieve constancy

Bass Ackward
12-27-2006, 06:58 PM
Yep thats it, radially ,two small ones. If I fireform brass without annealing they can be seen in the finished product,and sometimes the neck will tear. If I anneal (which I guess I should be doin with win tin anyway) then we're ok. But I knows their there. Any sense trying to make a mandrel to polish, or just keep annealing, and ignore. The only thing I never liked about the annealing process is the ability, or lack there of to achieve constancy


Charger,

What do you mean that you can't get consistency? Look at the Hornady system.

If you seat into the lands, under high pressure, the brass let's go before the bullet starts to move, so the effect of case neck tension is eliminated. Another reason choking works, it maintains centering of the bullet after the brass has let go.

You don't want to polish the neck and have it result in a larger diameter neck. The guy that made that chamber, should have removed and cleaned the reamer more often or had oil flow under pressure to keep the reamer clean. Especially as he got into the neck.

charger 1
12-27-2006, 07:27 PM
Charger,

The guy that made that chamber, should have removed and cleaned the reamer more often or had oil flow under pressure to keep the reamer clean. Especially as he got into the neck.

Yep. Woulda ,shoulda, coulda. But when its all said and done I think I'll leave it alone, cause when you anneal the brass you cant even see them. They form well so live with it I guess

C1PNR
12-30-2006, 08:31 PM
I've got a similar problem, charger 1, except mine is in the chamber area and more in line with the bore. It's not straight, but rather just a little crooked. Been that way since it was new.

This is a .22 Hornet "Baby Rolling Block" sold by Navy Arms many years ago. The defect is very plain to see on the fired case, but it doesn't seem to effect the extraction any. And that rolling block design sure doesn't have much mechanical advantage to help get it moving.

I know I should just leave it alone, but Man it looks UGLY. I talked with one gunsmith many years ago about setting the barrel back one turn and freshening the chamber, but he said it'd take too much work to shorten and properly fit the forearm to the front of the action. He's probably right, too.

I've also thought about rechambering to K-Hornet, and may yet do that. In the meantime the brass comes out so ugly I find myself not wanting to shoot the thing, and it's such a cute little rifle.[smilie=1:

charger 1
12-31-2006, 08:26 AM
I guess the chamber body is a different animal, but in my case I did go ahead and make up a lapping plug for the neck. I made it .001 under the neck diameters 484-4825. Put a 400 compund on it and while rotating it slowly moved the drill in and out just a smidge. Kind of a cross hatch as opposed to just leaving the thing in one place. Now I know that no matter what I use to look in its pretty hard to see a radial scratch way in there, however I dont see anything, and as long as I've annealed my brass I dont see it on the brass. The brass will only pic up a smidge of a line if fireformed without annealing. Having said that just how hard is it to get win brass to stress if not annealed ? The marks left are probably a tenth or two deep, but in the world of win tin brass that tears out to look like a cavern. So I'll just keep annealing and wishing that RP made all brass. God when I think of the murdererous things I've done with RP, that you cant even begin to ask of win tin

Bass Ackward
12-31-2006, 08:40 AM
You would be astounded if guys would recant all the horror stories they have seen.

georgeld
01-14-2007, 05:13 AM
or done.

Amazing some of us survived isn't it??

No_1
01-14-2007, 07:27 AM
I also have a similar problem with a Sporter Siamese Mauser in 30/40 that has a 2 groove 03 barrel on it. I bought it at a gunshow for $350 (nice looking rifle at that) with the intentions of having ERShaw rebarrel it to 45/70. I droppped it off with the gunsmith to have it checked out before I sent it off. He shot it then commented on it's accuracy and how it left a "ring" on the brass. I looked at the sample cases he kept and sure enough there was a small ring that went partially around the case longitudinal to the bore about halfway between the base and neck. BUT the rifle shot fantastic. So I left it that way. It took very little developement to find the optimal load and it has sat in the back of the safe ever since. Anyway, I had thought of polishing the chamber with a case that is coated with lapping compound or maybe just run a 30/40 AI reamer into it but never have. I still think of sending it to ERShaw to get it rebarrelled in 30-40 but with a fluted stainless barrel. I think that will contrast nicely with a parkerized receiver and the sporter stock refinished to a medium wood color. Oh yeah, I should have bought the factory 98 sporter the guy had in 9 x 57 while I was there. It was $350 also and came with a box of European ammo that had the correct headstamp and the original claw scope rings but since it was before the time I cast bullets I figured I would never be able to shoot it again once I shot the 20 that came with it. If I would have known then what I know now.....

Robert


I've got a similar problem, charger 1, except mine is in the chamber area and more in line with the bore. It's not straight, but rather just a little crooked. Been that way since it was new.

This is a .22 Hornet "Baby Rolling Block" sold by Navy Arms many years ago. The defect is very plain to see on the fired case, but it doesn't seem to effect the extraction any. And that rolling block design sure doesn't have much mechanical advantage to help get it moving.

I know I should just leave it alone, but Man it looks UGLY. I talked with one gunsmith many years ago about setting the barrel back one turn and freshening the chamber, but he said it'd take too much work to shorten and properly fit the forearm to the front of the action. He's probably right, too.

I've also thought about rechambering to K-Hornet, and may yet do that. In the meantime the brass comes out so ugly I find myself not wanting to shoot the thing, and it's such a cute little rifle.[smilie=1: