Cleaning a Lee Mold

[grullaguy]

I started casting bullets today for the first time. I was using a Lee mold, and after I got a pace going, I soon had a couple hundred bullets cast.
My question is regarding the bee's wax that is suggested for lubing the mold. By the time, I shut her down, I was starting to have alignment problems and it appears to be due to the wax forming a baked on lacquer on the alignment pins. What is the recommended way to get this crud off? Is there a better lube out there?
Thanks

[462]

You might try soaking them in mineral spirits for a day or two, or try wiping with acetone.

For a better lube, try Bull Plate -- should be available in the vendors section, or PM Bull Shop.

I'll take heat for this, but completely disregard the Lee instructions. Instead, read the Leementing sticky or do a Leementing search.

[onondaga]

Beeswax will work, if you are getting it baked on, discolored and caked up you are likely using many many times more than the amount that is demonstrated in the Lee video and it will be difficult to clean up. Try Comet and a SOFT wet brush gently and work slowly to avoid destroying the mold by over abrading the mold cavity edges.

Many casters here are happy with Bullplate.

I use clear Silicone Dielectric Grease from an auto parts store, it will not discolor, bake on or cake up.

Any mold lube should be used very sparingly, I use only enough to be rubbed out to a shine with a Q-tip.

Lee Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JYpSw95R5s0

Gary

[shotman]

OK
yea you know
KROIL KROIL KROIL
bulls lube is fine but dont get in cavs.
A member sent me a mold that wouldnt cast I sent it back and he couldnt belive it .
IT WORKS if you use it right

[6.5 mike]

+110 % on 462s advice, toss the lee instructions. Another thing that works for lube on moulds is welders soap stone. Being dry you can put it right where it needs to go, works well on the bottom of spruge plates, just shake the excess off. Been using it for awhile, now use bullplate, thanks to a NOE mould. It also helps spotting very minor burrs on the spruge plate, builds up at the burr so you know where you need to dress it down. Big help for old eyes, lol.

[captaint]

This is why most of the folks here use Bullplate from the Bullshop. I know, jeez, he's in Alaska for goodness sake. Send him an order and 20 bux and wait a couple weeks. You'll be WAY happier, and you'll never be without it again. Just don't spill it!!! enjoy Mike

[grullaguy]

Thanks everyone for all the advice. I will soak the mold in mineral spirits and see if the accumulation will come off with a toothbrush. If that works, I will then clean them with alcohol and re-lube. I like the idea of trying silicone dielectric grease as I have some in the garage, while Bull Plate is in Alaska.

(OK
yea you know
KROIL KROIL KROIL ) - As I am new to this, ..Nope, I have no idea what you are talking about.

I applied pure beeswax at the start of the casting and then applied it again half way through. Toward the end, the sprue plate was becoming difficult to open as well. I have not yet checked to see if that is due to lead build up between the sprue plate and the mold.

[MtGun44]

Beeswax is not a good lube, burns off and leaves a residue.

Bullplate lube. I have not tried the silicone grease, but if you have it in stock,
give it a shot.

Is this Dow DC-4 Compound? I do have some of that in stock.

Bill

[felix]

Dow DC-4: Retains its grease like consistency
from -55C(-67F) to +200C(392F)

Not high enough?

... felix

[koehlerrk]

I've got a small tube of synthetic grease... forget the numbers on it, but it's made for car/truck brake caliper slide bolts. Rated to 500F.

A little bit goes a long way...

[felix]

Yeah, that's the ticket. Pure silicones are prolly the best because of high temp tolerance. There are many different ones, so pick the ones that can be used for brake jobs, for example, as a minimum. Those that go on up to 800 degrees prolly have solid additives. If yours feels gritty, those grits are additives that might induce too much wear over time. Keep in mind, some silicones are water soluble, and those should not be used if the BruceB speed casting technique is used. ... felix

[grullaguy]

A quick update. Mineral Spirits did not touch the buildup, so rather than risk damaging the aluminum with too vigorous scrubbing, I put a light coat of dielectric grease on the pins. Casting went smoothly for a hundred or so bullets and then I could feel the skip as the two sides of the mold would close tight together. I then noticed that the problem was eliminated if I turned the mold upside down before closing it. I imagine if I lay the mold on a flat surface while closing it, that would also prevent the alignment problems. Maybe I am working the molds too much with out a break? My pot holds enough for about 300 9mm bullets and it seems a shame to have to stop before all the lead is gone.

[nwellons]

I imagine if I lay the mold on a flat surface while closing it, that would also prevent the alignment problems.

I use 5 Lee molds and one of them will often mis-align unless I set it on a flat surface and close. Probably an easy fix out there but setting it down to close is so easy that I haven't even looked for another answer.