Cleaning agents that emulsify alloys of lead?

[Naphtali]

Several years ago I think I read of a barrel cleaning agent for cast bullets that functions by emulsifying tin, antimony, and arsenic in casting alloys. The claim was that when casting alloy was broken down or emulsified, or dissolved, leading could be wiped from the bore without the need for scouring with brushes.

This was not important for me until recently when I bought a built-to-order mold for my .72-caliber muzzleloaders. I have been casting with 30:1 alloy for two reasons:

1. Culls have been reduced to less than five percent;

2. Since scouring bores is a non-starter, I hope I can relocate the emulsifying cleaning agent - and that it works as I remember its blurb.

[lavenatti]

Anything that does what you're asking creates a toxic mess of soluble lead compounds.

If you really want to try it, just make a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide.

I recommend gloves.

[captaint]

I think it's also been said that Mercury will do the same. I'm not playing with that under any circumstances though. I'll stick with the Chore Boy & brush. Mike

[gray wolf]

Did you get leading with Pure also ? or have you not tried it?
Tell us why you think you are getting a leaded barrel with a smoke pole.
In any case I also recommend the Chore boy.
Wipe out foaming bore cleaner used to claim that it got under lead and lifted it out,
They may have even said it dissolved the constituents in the lead and allowed it to be removed.

[btroj]

Mercury will form an amalgamate with lead. This allows for the lead to be removed easily but it is too toxic to even consider.
Emulsification of lead? Dissolve maybe but emulsify? We would be lucky to find something that could get the lead to release physically from the bore. I have little hope for a chemical removal method that is also safe for both the barrel and the user. Sadly, copper is easier to remove than lead.

I will stick with doing all I can to prevent the need for a lead remover but when I need to get rid of lead I will stick to physical means.

[Three44s]

If I had a smoke pole, I'd be for trying the Wonder wads in it!

I ran a bunch through my .44 mags and they were squeaky clean! The downside is that the lube in them leaches out and inactivates smokeless powder in hot weather.

The other thought is to use a material called CorrosionX after you are done cleaning. Run patches wetted with it and then some dry ones.

The CorrosionX will act like a bore coating to some extent and it's one hell of a rust inhibitor to boot!

At the minimum, your steel will clean up much easier and it's great inside and out!!!

Three 44s

[Jim]

I'm curious, but confused. At the risk of adding to the confusion without helping, are you shooting bullets or round balls?

I ask because RBs should be patched and bullets should be well lubed. That being said, I'm wondering how lead is being deposited in the barrel.

[Moonie]

For the rare occasion I've ever had need of such a thing I used the 50/50 hydrogen peroxide/White Vinegar solution.

[mactool]

how strong is the hydrogen peroxide?, 35% or 12%
and the vinegar: household, or 35% (acid)

[Moonie]

I used standard household strengths for both.

[blackthorn]

If you decide to use the peroxide/vinegar lead removal method, here are some things you will find useful:

With use of proper precautions Vinegar/peroxide (mixed 50/50) can be used to remove lead from the bore.

With some salt or Clorox mixed in (not to be used in firearm bores) the mixture is often used to etch steel reproduction items to match original finishes. This mixture will ‘frost’ a clean piece of metal in 30 minutes or less to provide a finish that equals 120 years of rust and wear. While the same mix sans the salt or Clorox when used as a lead remover is not as corrosive, you still must use extreme caution if you intend to use a vinegar/peroxide mix to remove lead from the bore of your firearm.

Be careful about mixing hydrogen peroxide and vinegar, it produces per-acetic acid. Per-acetic acid, while commonly used as a sanitizer on food processing equipment, is very corrosive to some metals. It is definitely not safe to use on brass or copper alloys, and will damage both carbon and galvanized steel. When it breaks down it will leave an acetic acid residue on metal surfaces. When we use this mix to remove leading from the bore of a firearm, in dissolving the lead deposits, it produces lead acetate () which is extremely poisonous (). Hydrogen peroxide raises the lead valence from zero to plus two, so that a minus one from the acidic acid ion initiates a rapid lead ‘rusting’ process, making grey colored lead acetate which is not sticky and therefore bubbles out. It cannot be stressed strongly enough that this grey liquid is pure () poison, so do this well away from areas where food is (or will be) grown, prepared or stored and wear rubber gloves. The mixture can however be used to remove excessive lead buildup from the bore of your firearm, if you are careful. The first thing to do is to remove as much of the lead buildup as possible using (approximately) a 30” strand taken from a ‘chore boy/girl’ pot scrubber (just use a magnet to be sure the material really is copper and not just coated) wrapped round a worn out bore brush. Prior to pouring the mixture into the barrel, the barrel must be dry (no oil or other lube). To begin, clean the barrel with Ed’s red or a similar cleaner of your choice and then use rubbing alcohol on a bore mop or rag to remove any residual oil. The vinegar/peroxide mixture can be applied using a clean bore mop or it can be poured in to almost fill the bore as long as the chamber is tightly plugged. The mixture must not be allowed to come into contact with the exterior finish of the firearm, therefore, if you are pouring it in, do not fill the bore to the top as the stuff foams up and it will run over if it is too full. As noted above, this mixture has the potential to damage the bore so allow a two minute maximum soak for the 50/50 vinegar/peroxide mix to work and then wash out the barrel with tap water. Do not use distilled or deionized water. Under some circumstances using distilled water will create lead () bi-acetate or () tri-acetate, either of which are deadly () poisons, so make sure the water you use is somewhat tainted. To be sure, add a quarter teaspoon of salt per quart of water. You may have to repeat the process a number of times depending on the amount of leading present. Run the chore boy through again and if the barrel is lead free, rinse with really hot tap water. Use a hair dryer or other heat source to be sure the barrel is moisture free and then use a water displacing oil such as WD 40.

Hope you find this useful.

[cajun shooter]

The market has a very good product that removes lead with very little danger other than the lead itself. Use Kroil in your barrel. Stop up both the chamber and muzzle ends with the barrel full as possible. Allow to sit for 24 hours and then open and clean with brush to see results.