Under Bench Receiver System

[StaTiK]

First, let me say that this is not my system and I have nothing to do with this other than uploading the images and transcribing a letter for Crusty Deary Ol'Coot. After hearing so much about it, I contacted him and he graciously sent me the information. If you have questions or wish to remark on the system please remember that I'm only the tech support guy. Without further adieu:

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-StaTiK-

[StaTiK]

(the system limits the number of images per post).

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-StatiK-

Album Link (http://img217.imageshack.us/g/ubrs001.jpg/)

[StaTiK]

(also from Crusty Deary Ol' Coot)

Wish I could take credit for this idea but in reality that must go to a friend at whose home I first saw this idea employed. One way or the other it is a great, and possibly the best, idea I have ever seen for mounting and using reloading tools. Thanks Frank!

If you happen to see my system or view images of the same you will note that I am using pairs of receiver tubes under my bench. However, if you were to use trailer hitch receiver tube and inserts, the male and female parts of the trailer hitch system, the use of a single tube is very likely OK (providing of course that the receiver tube is the heavy duty variety and not the type used on mini cars). The original setup I first saw used a single tube and it seemed to do fine.

Be that as it may, no one has ever said that I under build anything, and my system IS strong! Another reason for using the “official” male and female receiver tube is material fit. I have used 2” square tube for my receivers, and 1.25” square tube for the male/stinger portion, and while very strong it is a bit sloppy and needs to be shimmed which is not a problem for a welder. Note that I have winged set screws on each of the receivers. Some type of pinning or set screw would be needed no matter which receiver material is used, to ensure the reloading tools remain in one place and stable during use.

I have also drilled a hole and welded a nut in place on both sides of the receiver tubes looking forward to the point where one set screw or nut wears out and needs replacement. This will probably be 50-70 years in the future, but doing it correctly the first time means I don’t need to go back and do repairs later.

My bench is made of two layers of good ¾” plywood. The first layer is glued and screwed to 2x4s which are screwed to the wall studs. The second layer is glued and screwed to the first and the seams are overlapped because the bench is more than 8’ long. The bench is supported by “knee” braces back to the wall and is VERY solid (a must for a good loading bench). As I write this I am in the process of buiding under bench oak-faced cabinets to match the rest of the house. Once they are in place I will remove the knee bracing. Because this bench/table is in a “common” and much-used area of our home, the top has been covered with Formica in an attempt to have it match and fit into the rest of the house. Therefore, the use of the Under Bench Receiver System is important because it negates the need for holes to be drilled through the bench surface.

Holes were drilled for the mounting of the Under Bench Receiver System before the Formica was laid in place. The bolt heads are countersunk into the plywood bench material and the bolts set in Acraglas stock bedding fiberglass to ensure they are permanent.

My system was originally just 2 pairs of receiver tubes but once the Hornady progressive LNL came to live here that left me short for work space unless one of the loading tools was removed from the bench and stored. For that reason I did, after the fact, install/weld in a 3rd pair of tubes. I have a dedicated tool mount for the RCBS and Hornady presses as well as the powder measure but everything else is just attached to a multi-use tool mount using “C” clamps. It works!

Were I to design an Under Bench Receiver System today I would probably pay the price for receiver hitch material and would make as many tool stations as I have room for.

As you look at the images, most of the under bench room now available will be filled with the new cabinets: 6’ on the left and 2.5’ on the right, leaving about 4’ for leg room at the tool stations. For the most part I think I the images will explain most of the other details.

[StaTiK]

(this was also included in the letter from Crusty Deary Ol'Coot)
Speaking with Frank about how he mounted his receiver system and the material he used for his bench top, make note of the following info. Bear in mind that I have never been accused of under building anything and as such feel that a double layer of quality wood is the way to go for a bench top. I HATE CRUMB BOARD, or what is commonly called “particle board”. That material is weak, doesn’t hold nails or screws worth a hoot and is a failure waiting to happen! However Frank has made his bench by first putting down a layer of good ¾” plywood and then covering it with a ready-made countertop like those found at Home Depot. Typically, those countertops are made of crumb board and as such cannot be relied on to hold screws. Frank side steps that problem by using many smaller screws when mounting his receiver tube and relies on the single layer of plywood to hold the screws. By using relatively fat screws (at least ¼” or fatter) to take a very good on the plywood he has been able to make a secure attachment.

You will note that I have steel plate welded to the receiver that have been bolted in place with bolts that go through from the top of the bench (except for the last pair of tubes added in front of the knee brace on the left end of the system). Frank, using only a single tube made of trailer hitch receiver tube, has attached the receiver to the bottom of the bench with a piece of angle iron welded to each side of the receiver tube. He indicated that he used 1”x1” angle iron with one flat welded to the tube and the other flat against the bottom of the bench (which has about 8 holes along the length of the iron for screws). I think his idea is good but my recommendation is two layers of good plywood, glued and screwed together and 1.5” angle iron, increasing the number of holes and staggering them along the length for screws.

You may notice that I have used spacing material welded between the bench and the receivers. This is to allow the tubes to clear the oak trim on the front of the bench. Using angle iron as Frank has done would allow for some vertical clearance without using spacers (just lower the tubes then weld).

** end of transmission **

-StaTiK-

[Southern Son]

This is a great idea. I might have to change it a little to suit my bench, but I need to be able to mount a Lube sizer and 2 powder throwers (one smokeless, one B.P.). I can't use a system that changes the top of the bench to anything other than perfectly flat, but this very much the right idea for my setup, Thanks for passing it on Statik, Crusty Deary Old Coot.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

My Thanks to StaTik for posting this info!!!!!

I'll be glad to try and answer any questions which may come up. Just send me a "PM" and I'll give it a try.

I think the cover letter sent with the images, will answer most questions, but reading back through it, I am probably less then clear on the attachment of angle iron for attaching the receiver to the bottom of the bench (as per Frank's idea) and how that can be used to adjust for trim such as I have used on the edge of my bench.

Being retired, I have even given some thought to building these systems for resale. But, due to having once been "in business" (photography) am not sure I want to go there, again. [smilie=1:

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[44Vaquero]

That is a very slick set up, nice job! This is my favorite part about reloading "Seeing people use their heads to find unique solutions"!!

[Airborne Falcon]

Slick. Nice job. Wish I had seen this before I built my latest newest bench.

[ph4570]

Very nice. I may have to do something similar -- at least it will go on "the list".

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Thanks again for the person who posted the images.

Will be glad to answer questions if people have them. Just send me a "PM" and I'll get back to you as soon as I see the message.

CDOC

[edler7]

What a great idea ! I'm moving soon, and will need to build a new bench. This is definitely going into the plans.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot here,

I have given thought to building and marketing this system, but the one BIG problem I see is the many many, MANY varied bolt patterns for tools and presses and how to deal with it on other then a semi-custom and much more costly bases.

Have a friend that is also a welder/fabricator and to keep the price down and delivery speed short that seems for us, to be the deal breaker for marketing the product.

I would like to Powder Coat everything, because of the great quality of that finish, and frankly it is very costly to make two 80 mile trips to drop off and pick up a custom drilled tool plate just to fill an order.

Lets see here, 3+ hours total driving time at a reasonable dollar per hour, Plus Gas at 3 - 4 dollars per gal and 10 gal for the pickup, that's a couple or three hundred dollars plus the cost of the tool plate plus shipping --- Anyone willing to spend $350.00 for each tool plate?

Hmmmmmmmmmmm, I THOUGHT NOT!!!!!

Wish we could figure out that one glitch, as for those without a shop or the skills/equipment for welding/fabricating, I think there just might be a bit a market out there.

Oh well, :violin: :violin:

Anyway, at this point glad :bigsmyl2: to answer questions and give pointers which I have gained on making this great system usable for the forum folk.

Keep em coming!

CDOC

WOW, Just saw this is posting #1000

[koehn,jim]

Great system, Harbor Freight sells a mid price powder coat system, you could do your own powder coating and save some money.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Hmmmmmmmmm? I'll look.

CDOC

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

A thought I have is don't pre-drill the holes and don't paint them at all. Just weld them up, and include the mounting bolt/nuts and locking bolts. Most guys can handle a drill or know a friend that can. I like the system, but no longer have the welding tools to build it. But I do own hand drill as well as a bench top drill presse along with HSS drill bits. Tough for me to fabricate, easy for me to drill the holes for my particular press, then paint it myself any color I or my wife likes.

I really like your system, it's a nice one. I have a butcher block top steel bench, so I'd either have the counter sunk holes showing or have to laminate a top on it, but it would certainly be something to consider doing.

For a fella who hasn't built his bench yet, he could plan this type of bench up front, Maybe even using three layers of plywood for extra strength.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Dave, --------- some good thoughts there!!!!!!!!!!

I have used 2 layers of 3/4" of quality plywood, glued and screwed and it is very strong, like VERY!!.

My holes to mount the system were drilled through the two layers, the holes were counter sunk and then I set the screws in Brownell's Acraglas stock bedding resin.

They ain't go'in no where!!!!!!!!

Now, I was talking with the fellow from whom I got the idea, and he used a bit of a different mounting plan which is working well for him.

No one has ever said I build things too light, but I think using some of his ideas, along with what my design has come to makes a usable product for almost anyone.

I have voiced my thoughts on crumb board/was wood/partical board and am not likely to change my opinion in that direction.

However, my friend was able to use a preformed counter top, which of course is made of "crumb board/was wood" by putting it on top of a piece of good 3/4" plywood.

The 3/4" plywood provided the screw holding power without the crumbling/pulling out/cracking of "was wood", that simply would not have been relyably available otherwise.

Maybe I'll explore this idea a bit more.

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

A second thought is sandblasting and a bit of primer to prevent rust while shipping would not hurt though. Much less expensive than powder coat.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Dave,

My possible pardner in this endevor, should it even get off the ground, and I are hashing it over, and some of the comments I have recently seen are good food for thought.

Doug - the possible pardner - is almost totally confined to a wheel chair due to a serious injury, but still does an amaizing amount and job of fabrication. Builds alum. drift boats, builds and repairs boat trailers, repairs jet boats. Pretty impressive person. He has a lot of "want to" to be able to do what he does, in spite of everything!

Anyway - I really like solid and well done integrity - don't really need the shine and it is second to solid in my book -, like I am a RUGER guy rather then a S&W person etc. but at the level we would try to sell at, shoot'in overly high is a deal breaker as per time and cost.

Your thought of selling without the pre-drill holes is very good and makes sense along with using something other then powder coat.

100% finished, drilled, and powder coated, would be the dream way of producing, but at our level a deal breaker.

Guess the holes could be done at the time of order, with a customer supplied pattern at a reasonable, per hole additional cost, but will cross that bridge, if/when we come to it.

Getting the word out is a question also, but a person can sign up to be a sponsor here on the forum and join the ranks of the mold makers, lube makers, alloy suppliers etc.

Still think'in. Thanks for your input!

CDOC

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, WOW! that is a slick set up.


Rich

[pmeisel]

Very interesting. Nice work.

[quicksilver]

great system, why do we always find this kind of info after we have built something?

[kayak1]

It's a really nice system!

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Thanks Kayak1,

Have recently made a much simpler version which would work well for a bench already finished and in use.

Providing of course that the bench top has enough integrity to hold good screws.

Crumb board or was wood would not qualify, although my friend where I got the original idea has a bench top of good 3/4" plywood over which is a crumb board counter top and his works fine.

The plywood has enough integrity to get er done.

I haven't taken the images of the simpler unit, but told the friend I need to do so.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Hamish]

" I HATE CRUMB BOARD, or what is commonly called “particle board”"

I call it TERMITE BARF !

Coot, really nice execution, you've got me thinking now,,,,,

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

"Termite Barf" Love it!! even better then "was wood."

Hamish, if your interested, I could send you info on the simpler version and maybe get with my friend and get some photographs.

Makes for easier construction.

CDOC

[DEC505]

Glad I saw this before completing my bench. Great idea.and another set of receivers ,away from the bench would serve as a great storage idea. Thanks for sharing.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

DEC505,

The friend who had the original one I saw, only used one receiver.

I like the two for the great stability!

Also, it will be worth the cost to buy the real receiver tube like used in trailer hitches, both the male and female parts, as it makes for a tighter fit then just using the square tube I used.

I needed to put weld some shims on my stingers to decrease the play which is not needed with the receiver tube.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot