Solid lead door

[odinohi]

I just got a call about a solid lead door. The guy said it came from a doctors xray room and his parents had it put in there basement. He is estimating 300-400lbs. I know its gonna be a chore to get it up out of the basement, but how would one go about cutting that thing up to fit in the pot? Hope he sells it to me for what the scrapyard will pay him.

[Trey45]

Chainsaw and a lot of oil.

[eldoradolee]

Just use an acetolein torch.Fast and easy

[runfiverun]

let him try to get it out first, i bet the price drops dramatically.

[MGySgt]

Circular saw with the blade reversed will cut it. Sweep up the 'Saw Dust' and throw that in the pot too!

[mold maker]

Reversed blade works good on aluminum, but a course blade and some lube run normally should cut lead just fine. A recip saw with a course wood blade should work also. I have cut lots of thick lead on a band saw with a 4 tpi wood blade, just don't force feed it.

[man.electric]

Most lead doors I have seen have steel or wood on the sides for decoration or protection of the lead inside. "Jacketed doors", if you would. Cutting might not be easy, but there is a lot of lead to be had. Nice score!

[Daywalker]

For my Circular saw, Skill Saw whatever you want to call it, I had went to lowes and bought a diamond blade for like 14 bucks. I used that blade to cut brick out to frame up a door to my back porch. I don't know how well that would work for lead, but I would think it would work pretty good....

[perimedik]

Just use an acetolein torch.Fast and easy

That was my thought.
Cit it into strips or blocks that are more manageable.

Good luck! Pics when you get them...

[fecmech]

For my Circular saw, Skill Saw whatever you want to call it, I had went to lowes and bought a diamond blade for like 14 bucks. I used that blade to cut brick out to frame up a door to my back porch. I don't know how well that would work for lead, but I would think it would work pretty good....

I think the diamond blade is the wrong approach to lead. IIRC masonry diamond blades are very fine to cut brick and stone which is hard and dense. Lead is dense but very soft and actually cuts like a softwood. I have a $90. table saw with a "cheapy" 10" carbide combination blade that cuts lead just about like the same thickness of wood but the chips hurt a lot worse. My skill saw with a carbide framing blade works just as well. You want a coarse blade for lead.

[Jim]

16 tooth carbide rip blade on a Skil saw. Face shield, heavy gloves and heavy clothing. Those lead chips fly like bird shot.

[Longwood]

Another vote for a cheap carbide blade in a Skil type saw.
I have used mine to cut 6061 aluminum as thick as 3/8". Go slow and easy and use a good straight edge that is clamped down so it can not slip.
If you need to make two or more cuts to get through it, move the straight edge over about 1/4 of the kerf so it staggers the cut a little. That lets the chips made during the deeper cut come out of the kerf better.
Moving the blade back and forth a little, like that, you can make two or three cuts from each side if you get something really thick like bricks
I tape a piece of old tee shirt around the saw when cutting metal so the chips can't get into the motor.
Gloves, face shield, floppy broad brimmed hat, long sleeved shirt with the collar turned up and a top button, buttoned,,,,.
Same stuff I had on earlier to use my die grinder on a propane tank.

[Suo Gan]

I'd put that on my root cellar.

[zuke]

It's probably at least painted, and if the guy will let you cut it indoor's is another question.
Get if off then slide it along the floor or make up a couple small dollwy's to roll it out.

[HeavyMetal]

I bought some lead "bricks" once, these were 5 x 12 and about 1 1/2 thick, just a tad to large to fit in my Lee pot!

Had a dozen or so and, after a couple false starts, decided that my weed burner and a tank of propane was the ticket! Layed them on top of my ingot molds and melted them until I had ingots then moved the remains of the brick to the next ingot mold and continued on!

In an hour or so I had converted them all into some thing useable.

I think this door is gonna be a lot of fun to get out of that basement! BY the way why did they want it in the basement??? Think I'd ask how or who put it down there and then repeat the process if I could.

Nice score!

[schutzen]

They now make a special skill saw blade for cutting metal roofing/siding. These blades are much more efficient and safer than a reversed regular blade. You still need to wear safety glasses, gloves and along sleeve shirt because hot sparklers will fly off the blade.

I second the idea of letting him try to get it out of the basement first. Unless he has several young sons or grandsons, the price will drop quickly.

PS Drop the idea of an acetylene torch, it is too hot and will vaporize the lead. You do not need to inhale lead fumes.

[scb]

Probably more than what your looking for but we've got one of these at work. This saw will cut 3/4" mild steel plate.
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6370-21-8-Inch-Cutting-Circular/dp/B0000WUQI4

[nanuk]

if the door is not too wide, could you take down a hydraulic wood splitter and reduce it into carrying sized pieces?

[Link23]

why not use a axe?

[leadman]

A torch will cause the lead to give off fumes as the temperature is too high. Plus the paint will be burning and producing fumes. Not good in an enclosed area.

[dragonrider]

Assuming that it is a SOLID LEAD DOOR, and not just a lead lined door, and again assuming that it is of standard door dimensions of 32"x1.5"x84" it will weigh in the area of 1600 lbs. Removing it in one piece will be tough.

[Lloyd Smale]

no need for anything fancy. Just use your chansaw. Ive cut up a couple of them and the lead doesnt even slow the saw down and the chain is easily touched up afterward.