A Few Questions...

[bullpen7979]

I'll try to be concise.
I am really looking forward to casting. I'm trying to source ww now, however, if I do the math, even if I have to buy lead at what looks like the going rate at $1.25/lb, it would *appear* that even after lube and whatnot, I'm looking at about .02 per slug if I'm shooting 125 grain slugs. That's still way less (assuming I don't factor in my fixed cost) than continuing to buy fmj at approx. .07 ea.

I realize this might be greatly simplified (chances are yes, it is, but..)
Basic steps assuming I get the casting thing going....
1. Melt/cast
2. Light lube
3. Size
4. Tumble lube
5. Dry
6. Load/shoot

I'm looking at the lee 6 cavity 9mm mold for economy and production reasons. I show these as sized at 356. If I slug my barrel (CZ75 P01) and it sizes over 356, then the lee mold would be ill advised, is this correct? If so, is there an affordable 6 (or 4 if need be) cavity mold in .3565 or .357 or whatever it sizes out to that someone can recommend? Round nose would likely feed best and it would suit my plinking needs fine, I believe. A SWC design would prob be ok as well.

I can see myself doing the sizing thing. I can see the tumble lubing thing. My question is, given the 9mm cartridge at average velocities, would the tumble lube be enough?

I realize I'm totally new, and again, have probably greatly oversimplified some if not all of the steps. Im looking for recommendations specifically on the mold style and the lube procedure.

My classic turret press is working out great btw. Thanks list; I sure appreciate any constructive input...

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

this is a mold I recently bought...it was recommended by others here.
Lee 6 cav. 358-125-RF
Use for both 38 or 9mm
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=916523
my mold drops them at .360
Jon

[RobS]

If I were going to use a Lee design it would be the Lee 358-125-RF as it will drop .358 or larger. I say size to .358 or as large as your chamber will allow you and make sure your reloading practices leave you with the intended boolit diameter. 9mm cases can really swage down the base of a perfectly sized boolit. When you are set up load a dummy round and pull it to ensure the very edge of the boolit's base is still what you had originally sized it or at least larger than your barrel's groove diameter. Also using the slower for 9mm powders helps as well.

[357shooter]

The Lee 105 SWC with LLA is pretty popular for 9MM shooting. This is second hand info as I don't load for the 9.

[JIMinPHX]

Slug your barrel first, then pick a mold. I've seen some 9mm barrels run tight & I've seen some over .36. I concur that the 358-125-rf is a great all around boolit that often does well in the 9mm as well as .38/.357mag guns.

It's not the best for all guns though. Some guns do have feeding problems with the flat nose design. As much as I like that boolit, If you don't also have a .38 to load for, I would advise you to borrow a few boolits of that design to test in your gun before investing in a 6-cav mold. If it doesn't feed well for you, there are also round nose molds in .38 cal that would provide you with a fat 9mm if you need it.

I'd start with slugging your barrel though.

Then again, a mold like that should not be hard to get rid of on the swappin & selling section of this board if you end up getting stuck with something that doesn't work well for you.

I've had good results with both the Lee 102gr RN & 105gr SWC for paper punching with a 9mm, but the 102 would not be the best choices of you need a fat boolit.

[onondaga]

I have not found tumble lube to be limited by velocity and shoot cast rifle boolits to 2650 with tumble lube. Bullet size is much more important. Beginning casters rarely get exact cast bullet diameters they expect. This is not an easy simple hobby. Yes, slug your bore first, then select a mold you hope to get bullets + .002" from.

Gary

[MikeS]

I would also advise that rather than jumping in with a six cavity mould that you first get a two cavity mould. Trying to start off with a six cavity mould is like learning to drive in a truck! Get to the point where you can consistently cast good boolits with the two cavity before moving on to the six cavity.

[bullpen7979]

Is it really that much harder to use a six cavity mold?

[JIMinPHX]

Trying to start off with a six cavity mould is like learning to drive in a truck!

Funny you should say that...
I learned to drive on a 5-ton dump truck with wet brakes. You would be amazed how hard it is to make the transition from something like that to a car with an automatic transmission & power brakes (so that I could take the driving test in something that I was legal to drive on my learner's permit). First of all, I was always reaching for the clutch, that wasn't there. Then there was the issue of me stomping on the brakes with the force required to stop a dump truck. I'm lucky that I didn't put my head through the windshield or end up with a concussion.

I sort of agree with you about a 2-cav mold being easier to learn with though.

[357shooter]

Learning on a 6 cavity is a bit tougher, if you use all 6 cavities.

You can start by using 1 or 2 cavities and progress at your own pace, until you are comfortable using all 6. That way you don't have to buy extra moulds.