Core mould pics

[gjemba]

Here is the 6 banger core mould that I made recently from a Lee .30 cal mould. This is for 38/357. The cavities are 5/16". I need to make the 44 yet from the 2nd set of mould blocks. Maybe in the next week or so. The adjustment screws are ordinary hex screws although I did use 1/4-28 rather than 1/4-20 for fine movement and just sawed a screw slot in them.

Gary

[BT Sniper]

DANG! That is perfect! Here all this time I have been drilling holes to different lengths or trying to drill all of them the same depth to achieve the same weight. This is a simple solution. LOVE IT! Don't know why I didn't think of that one. Thanks a bunch for sharing. I know what I'll be doing this week. Hope you don't mind if I make a few of my own from your design.

Awesome!

Swage ON!

BT

p.s. did I mention? NICE WORK!

:goodpost:

[BT Sniper]

So, should one use a steel plate on the bottom or AL?

[Greg in va]

Thats cool.....very nice

[gjemba]

BT, I used aluminum so it would have the same coeficient of expansion as the core mould. I used stainless socket screws and used Loctite Silver Grade anti-seize on the threads. It is good to 1600 degrees F. The stainless screws are also 1/4-28. Use what ever ideas that you see. This is all about sharing. I steal ideas all the time. You guys may even fine a better way to do this.

Gary

[Ammosmith]

That is a sweet idea!

[rugerglocker]

With the screws, what is on top of them (the part that seals the bottom of the cavity)? I just don't understand how you'd find screws like that, or did you make them? Sorry for my lack of understanding I am new to this.

Kinda like a 2 headed screw?

[ExcIsAc]

If I am looking at it correctly, the aluminum base has threaded holes and the nuts on the bottom are lock nuts to hold the adjustment screws in the correct position. Correct?
Also what weight range of cores will it produce with the adjustment screws fully extended and fully retracted?

[gjemba]

With the screws, what is on top of them (the part that seals the bottom of the cavity)? I just don't understand how you'd find screws like that, or did you make them? Sorry for my lack of understanding I am new to this.

Kinda like a 2 headed screw?

The adjustable screws are standard hex head 1/4-28 with the hex head turned down to the correct size the core. It is slightly less than the 5/16" hole in the mould so it moves easily. Maybe .002" smaller. I just used a hacksaw to cut a slot in the bottom of the screw so I can adjust it with a screw driver and then tighten it with the nut to hold it in place.

Gary

[gjemba]

If I am looking at it correctly, the aluminum base has threaded holes and the nuts on the bottom are lock nuts to hold the adjustment screws in the correct position. Correct?
Also what weight range of cores will it produce with the adjustment screws fully extended and fully retracted?

My post directly befroe this describes the adjusting screw. As for weights, I don't know the range. I use for .357 with half jackets or with .32 acp cases, for full jackets, so I only need to make a 120 - 145 grain core to get what I use. It will go probabaly to 200 gr. though.

Gary

[rugerglocker]

OK I get it, I guess I'm a little slow. The heads are inside the mold! All you guys with lathes sure do make me jealous of what you can do.

[a.squibload]

Nice work, is mine ready yet?...:kidding:

[stealthshooter]

That looks really nice!!

[miestro_jerry]

How much do you charge to make this core mold for .357? I am also looking for one for .45 caliber also. I am not in a big hurry, rebuilding my loading room and moving my casting stuff out to my foundry building, but I would like to buy one for each size.

Thanks,

Jerry

[BT Sniper]

That is still awesome. Always in the back of my mind..... I got to make me one of those some day!!

Great work.

BT

[gjemba]

How much do you charge to make this core mold for .357? I am also looking for one for .45 caliber also. I am not in a big hurry, rebuilding my loading room and moving my casting stuff out to my foundry building, but I would like to buy one for each size.

Thanks,

Jerry

I don't have time to make these except for my own use. Sorry, but I have way too many hobbies, none of which are for me to make money.

[danr]

great job making that core mold.. looks allot like the way i made my mold, much better quality though.

:)
dan

[deltaenterprizes]

So, should one use a steel plate on the bottom or AL?

If you use steel it will weigh a ton!

By looking at the colors in the pic I would say the bottom plate is aluminum.

[Red River Rick]

Problem with the multi cavity Adjustable core moulds, is trying to adjust each cavity so they ALL drop the same weight of slug. You can get close...........but never will they all be the same weight.

RRR

[alfloyd]

"You can get close...........but never will they all be the same weight."

That is why you need a core squirt die. It makes the cores all the same weight and size.
The core mold just makes it easy to make the slug to put thru the squirt die.
This way you do not need lead wire and you can use a harder alloy for the core.

Lafaun

[Red River Rick]

afloyd:

Your absolutely right, that is the correct method.

However, some of these guys just want a slug to drop into their jacket/empty case and swage away using the "One Step" process.

I had a bunch of adjustable core moulds, I threw them away. I extrude wire, cut the pieces to a weight that is approx 30 grs over, swage to the correct weight, seat the cores and then run them into the Ogive forming die.

RRR