Got My First Mold

[BigRix]

I happened across this mold at my local gun store. Ideal 358416. Can anyone tell me anything about it?

My research indicates it is the bullet used for the Colt .38 New Police. I happen to own one of these so that works out well. I also plan to load it in .38 Special and .357 Mag.

I plan to get some Lee handles for it and start casting.

I notice that it has no vent lines. Should I expect trouble? Is this a good mold for a beginner? Any hints you can pass along before I start?

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss208/BigRix/Casting/b035ae04.jpg

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss208/BigRix/Casting/884ead61.jpg

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss208/BigRix/Casting/8be03c09.jpg

The store also has these molds on the shelf. Would you buy these? What is a good price on these?

H & G #50 Four Holer

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss208/BigRix/Casting/IMG_0270.jpg

Ideal 358395 and 358432s

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss208/BigRix/Casting/IMG_0269.jpg

Thanks

[stubshaft]

Not having vent lines is not too big a deal. Just leave a normal gap on the spru plate for air to escape. both of the other Ideal molds shown are for 38 WC with the 395 being the HB version. They are in great shape, and I would offer $35.00 or more for either of them (they would sell for much more on flea bay).

[MikeS]

Just wanted to let you know that for Lyman single cavity moulds you would be better off buying Lyman handles, not Lee. While I think the Lee handles might fit, you can buy used Lyman handles usually for about the same price as Lee, and the older Lyman handles are much nicer IMHO.

[mooman76]

You could easily go $50 for the hollow point or 4x or even a little more if you want. Like stubshaft said you may or may not have problems. Allot of the earlier moulds didn't have vent lines but still managed to cast good boolits.

[BigRix]

Just wanted to let you know that for Lyman single cavity moulds you would be better off buying Lyman handles, not Lee. While I think the Lee handles might fit, you can buy used Lyman handles usually for about the same price as Lee, and the older Lyman handles are much nicer IMHO.

Doing a quick search on Ebay and I find large and small Lyman handles. Am I correct in assuming that these single molds would use the small handles?

[MikeS]

Actually you could use either. And physical size is actually that same, the 'small' handles only work with single cavity moulds, the 'large' handles will work with either single or double cavity moulds. I prefer Lyman's older style handles (the ones that are 8" overall length) to their current style handles.

[BigRix]

After doing a little research on cleaning molds I took the toothbrush and some Dawn to my "New" mold.

I discovered a ding near the top pin hole on the right half as seen in this picture.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss208/BigRix/Casting/b1a7b050.jpg

I believe it has caused enough deformation that it is not allowing the halves to meet. I can see a very small amount of light when I close the molds by hand.

My question is, should I use a small hammer to move some metal back or touch it up with a file?

Thanks

[plainsman456]

Don't use a hammer .A file or stone will work just fine.
Just take your time ...

[BigRix]

I guess I should have been more specific about the hammer. I mean "Small"

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss208/BigRix/Casting/bacdc84e.jpg

I was thinking that moving the material back would be preferred to removal.

[Iron Mike Golf]

I notice that it has no vent lines. Should I expect trouble? Is this a good mold for a beginner? Any hints you can pass along before I start?

Look at the right hand mold block in your third photo. See the tool marks? Those will act as shallow vent lines.

[cbrick]

BigRix, please put that hammer away, as far away from any mold as you can get it.

"If" there is a bur on the very top corner of the mold preventing the blocks from coming completely together, as was mentioned use a very fine file or wet stone on that spot only, not on the entire block face, go slow and check for closure often.

Rick

[BigRix]

Ok,

I put the hammer away. A couple strokes with the file and she is good to go.

Thanks for all your help. I'm glad I asked before I started trying to massage that dent.

It must be my inner body shop guy showing through.

Now to find some cheep handles.

[Doby45]

You will not get any cheaper than the Lee 6 cavity handles at Midwayusa. They will work perfectly on your mold and can be used on other molds as well.

[cbrick]

Now to find some cheep handles.

Don't need no stinkin handles, of course you have to be as tough as Crash Corrigan. Me? I'm a big time wuss, I use the handles.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=41217

Rick

[cbrick]

Doby, you simply have to get that dog a new dentist. That is a really bad fit.

Rick

[Doby45]

I have tried and yet he refuses to wear his retainer. Horse met water.

[MtGun44]

The 358416, if it is for the .38 Colt New Police, should cast a significantly oversized boolit for
.38 Spl or .357 Mag guns. The norm for the .38 S&W/.38 NP [same round] is more like
.360 or .361 rather than .357 or .358.

If you are interested in selling the .38 NP mold rather than using it, I may be interested in
purchasing it, since I just recently acquired a .38 Colt Police Positive, which is in .38 Colt
New Police caliber.

You didn't state the caliber you would be casting for, but I am guessing .38 Spl or .357 Mag
just based on the extremely wide availability of guns in these calibers.

The 416 mold looks to be a fairly good design, and seems to have some pretty good lube
grooves, so it may work well in .38 Spl if the size works out or you can size it down to
.357 or .358 diameter. I can tell you that the H&G 50 is a WONDERFUL
boolit and will be essentially guaranteed to be accurate in just about any .38 Spl
or a .357 Mag revolver for target level loads. The standard loads were normally done with
a very small charge of Bullseye powder, and were pussycats to shoot and very, very
accurate in the days of formal 2700 target shooting in the right gun. The hollow
based wad cutter is also known to be a very accurate boolit design for target shooting,
with the advantage of being able to adjust to off spec cylinder throat and bore dimensions
with good results. It has a disadvantage of being slower to cast with and not being able
to withstand hot loads (the base can blow out as it exits the muzzle and upset the boolit
in flight).

Also, the H&G molds are truly top quality molds. The only question is whether the mold has
been abused or worn out. Many of these #50 molds have case literally millions of boolits
supporting police departments for training back in the old days. I hope yours is in good
condition, because if it is you will have a mold that will produce superb target boolits with
a bit of skill on your part, and will be a joy to cast with, too.

Bill

[BigRix]

I actually have a Police Positive myself. I posted a pic of it in the castpics thread. My hope was to use them as dropped for the PP and size them for my Official Police in .38 special. I was still on the fence about buying the H&G #50 but I think I will have to go pick it up. The gun store wants $50 bucks for it and when am I gonna find a deal like that again.

[BigRix]

I almost forgot, I did cast some "boolits" with this mold yesterday. Just not the normal kind.

I shot a quick video of it in action.

http://youtu.be/oy2ghV8wLcI