sizing Tumble lubes

[jerry_from_ct]

Anyone use their lube-sizer to do lee tumble lube style bullets ?
I have a couple of lee TL molds that were purchased before the sizer and while I don't have an issue with T.L's, I just don't care for the lube on the nose of the bullet.

Just curious if anyone is doing it and any particulars. I would imagine there isn't any issues.

Thanks

[stubshaft]

I have and it works well. The biggest problem is gettin a top punch for them.

[jerry_from_ct]

I have and it works well. The biggest problem is gettin a top punch for them.

Yeah, I had that problem too, then I cut one (top punch) on the lathe.
If the design is not deep or complex, not a problem, WC, SWC or Truncated cone is fairly simple.

Thanks.

[Shiloh]

I tried it.

Homemade punch worked. Without it they may go in crooked. Not a big deal, but to me.
doing it this way defeated the whole purpose of the tumble lube concept.

Shiloh

[CPL Lou]

Maybe this would help:

http://www.castpics.net/subsite/TopPunches/Lee.html

CPL Lou

[geargnasher]

I found it's difficult to get all the "bands" filled without squirting lube up past the top band in four places, so it kinda defeats the objective of clean noses by not tumble-lubing. Your results may vary.

I use the 45/45/10 tumble lube formula, there is zero issue with lube on the noses that way. I recommend trying it out, see the "sticky".

Gear

[Recluse]

Just curious if anyone is doing it and any particulars. I would imagine there isn't any issues.

Thanks

Biggest issue I had was leading. Those microbands are already small and shallow enough, and the (boolit) design is for the lube to coat the bearing surface of the boolit moreso than the grooves..

:coffee:

[jerry_from_ct]

Biggest issue I had was leading. Those microbands are already small and shallow enough, and the (boolit) design is for the lube to coat the bearing surface of the boolit moreso than the grooves..

:coffee:



I don't know perhaps I am missing the concept, I always thought lube then size and load.
Is the point to re-lube after sizing ?, I would think it would scrape off when pressing in, of course a proper bell flare would eliminate that I guess.

I will have to check out that wax mix, like I said previous I don't have issues w/ the T Lube system, but with a sizer now available can't see the point other than having the molds previously purchased.

I agree, there isn't much real estate in the bands for a decent amount of lube.

I guess general opinion is it can be done, but not necessarily the best choice.

When unsure, always default to the experienced.

Thanks



Anyone need some TL molds, Cheap.;-)

[jerry_from_ct]

Probably should have read the T lube sticky of yours, pretty much covers it.[smilie=b:

Well done.

will try that mix..................

[Nesretep]

I run my Lee 45 Auto, 230 grain TL bullets through my Lube/Sizer. I use Lyman's molybdenum lube. Works very well in my Kimber. No leading issues and am satisfied with accuracy.

[noylj]

If you are aware of LLA on the nose of your bullet, you are using too much.
I will press my opinion--whatever gives me the best accuracy and minimizes/eliminates leading is what I want. If I find a simpler/faster way to achieve the same thing, all the better.
The whole tacky/lube-on-bullet-nose has never caused any problem and when I can lube 500 bullets in about 1 minute and have them ready to load in 24 hours, I consider that a hell of good method. Added is the fact that I can not damage the bullet by sizing since I am not sizing and the pan-lubing "kookie-Kutter" can't shave any lead since I am not pan lubing, I am in "fat city."
Form follows function and if something isn't a problem, I am not about to make it one. Why make problems for yourself if they don't affect function or accuracy? Aesthetics is found on the target and not on how shiny my bullets or cases are or the fact the I weighed the powder charge to +/- 0.02gn.

[Bullwolf]

I had a really odd batch of alloy that dropped a bit on the large side for me at .358-.359 from my Lee TL356-124-2R

The .358 stuff turned out to be a bit too large to chamber in my 9mm's, so...

I tried running them through a Lyman 450 lube sizer that I had set up to size 9mm for a Lyman 2-Cavity 356402 boolit. Sizing them down to .356 really sheared off most of the small micro lube bands, to the point where they just about disappeared.

What was left of the lube bands had very little room for lube in the grooves, if any room at all.

Also, when I tried sizing/lubing them in the Lyman 450 with Orange Magic, it made a bigger mess than tumble lubing boolits with old Mule Snot. It got all over the bullet and gushed everywhere, except where I wanted it - in the lube grooves that were now almost non-existent.

It was quite difficult to try to wipe the excess lube off the rest of the boolit, without accidentally removing the lube completely from the outside surface of what was left of the lube grooves.

I never even tried to shoot them after that, I just called it a failed experiment and stopped.

I now own a few Lee push through sizer dies, including one in 9mm. Sadly at the time I did not.

I personally prefer it when my TL356-124-2R drops at .357, then I just tumble lube, and load them as cast. Fortunately with my default alloy, and when I cast at the correct temperature, they almost always drop around .357.

Instead of re-sizing all the larger .358 TL356-124-2R I had cast, I tumble lubed them, and loaded that batch up as .38 special target ammo instead. They shot just fine by the way.

I went back to tumble lubing the Lee TL356-124-2R with Lee liquid Alox (and now Recluse's 45-45-10), and I stick to sizing and lubing the Lyman 356402 in the 450 Lubrisizer.

- Bullwolf

[stubshaft]

You can always dip it like Ranch dog does.