S&W M28 problem

[GRS1]

Hi Guys
A problem cropped up in my S&W M28 tonite. Sometimes when I am shooting it single action, as the hammer is falling, it also drags the trigger forward, instead of just falling freely and firing the gun. Any ideas?
Thanks for any help in advance Gord

[captaint]

Gord - Is this a new gun or older?? Sounds like something ain't right... Mike

[Murphy]

GRS1,

What you have described is a condition known as 'Hammer Push Off'. With some good stones and instructions it can be repaired at home. If you're not comfortable with doing that, you'll need a gunsmith to remedy it.

captaint, the S&W Model 28 has been around many many years and was discontinued back in the 80's. A shame it was too...a great N frame S&W. Basically meant as a 'working' gun that came in 4 & 6 inch barrel lengths. Also it wasn't nearly as polished on the outside giving it a high luster blued finish, but more of a dull finish.

Murphy

[GRS1]

Gord - Is this a new gun or older?? Sounds like something ain't right... Mike
__________________
I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

Hi Mike I have had this gun for about 25 years, and bought it used. I probably have shot about 3000 rounds thru it and this is my first problem with it. Gord

[GRS1]

Murphy Thanks for the info, I"ll probably need to find a smith and get him to have a look at it.
Is this Hammer push off a problem that can just crop up suddenly and what causes it. Once again Thanks Gord

[ReloaderFred]

If it's 25 years old, with roughly 3000 rounds through it, it just might need a good cleaning internally. If the sideplate has never been off it, there may be a bunch of gunk in there, which would mess up the sear engagement, etc.

With that said, never pry the sideplate off a S&W revolver. They can be warped that way, to say nothing of the nicks and gouges it produces. Remove the grips and once the sideplate screws are removed, sharply rap the right side of the grip with a screwdriver handle, or something similar, while holding your other hand over the sideplate to catch it when it pops loose. They were hand fitted and mate rather tightly.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Char-Gar]

My first response to any firearm malfunction is to detail strip it, clean it, lube it, and reassemble. That often cures the problem. It the problem persists it is time to track the problem down and fix it, either my self or by someone more accomplished.

I believe it was Skeeter Skelton who wrote that the Smith 28 was the greatest handgun value on the market. It was original sold as the "Highway Patrolman" and that name continued even after they went to Model numbers. I obtained my first one in 1963 and have not been without one or two every since. Today I have 6" and 4" models and they are going nowhere!

[rintinglen]

+1 on the good cleaning. A great many gun problems are amenable to repair simply by giving the gun a thorough cleaning. One cause of hammer push off is the build up of crup (part cr*p and part crud) in the notch on the hammer. This prevents proper engagement, or rather disengagement.
To disassemble for cleaning,
Empty the gun! Check it twice.
Using a proper fitting screw driver, remove the grips.
remove the sideplate screws and slide the cylinder assembly and crane out to the front.
over a towel or other soft, flat surface, using a non-marring impact device, a plastic or rawhide mallet, the handle to a screw driver, etc., rap the frame of the handle repeatedly until the impact jars loose the side plate. (The towel is there to catch the side plate should you achieve success a little sooner than you had thought).
Lift up the side plate, and set it aside.
remove the hammer block,
On K.L and N frames, loosen the screw in the front strap until the strain is completely off the hammer spring and then slide the hammer spring to the side from its recess and remove it, setting it aside.
pull the trigger back until the firing pin on the hammer clears the frame, then gently pry back on the hand until it clears the frame, wiggle the hammer up and off the hammer pivot pin.
Next comes the dangerous part, make sure you are wearing safety glasses. To remove the rebound bar and spring, place a thin bladed screw driver under the rebound bar and gently pry upthe rear portion until the base of the rebound spring is partially exposed. DO NOT ALLOW THE REBOUND SPRING TO SLIDE OFF THE STUD IN THE FRAME. It is under great tension and while you may not shoot your eye out, it will launch and seek the most remote hiding place it can find. Use an awl or other thin pointy tool to capture the base of the spring and then finally complete lifting the rebound bar up untill the rebound spring is free from the stud. Release the spring tension, remove the spring, and slide the rebound bar back until it comes clear of the hammer. lift it back and out and set aside.
The trigger can now be removed by pulling it slight to the rear until the cylinder locking bolt snaps up and then gently wiggling it up and off the trigger pin in the frame.
remove the lock screw from the cylinder release, remove the cylinder release, and lift the cylinder lock bar out of the frame taking care that the spring doesn't get lost.
Put the parts you've removed in an old pie tin or similar metal bowl and then, in a well ventilated area, soak them in mineral spirits or any commercial gun cleaner. spray the frame with Crudcutter, let it soak for a bit then scrub thoroughly with an old tooth brush, and tooth picks until visible dirt is all gone. Do the same to all of the parts you've had soaking, laying them on an old towell or newspaper, empty the metal bowl, put everything back in it and degease them with brake cleaner or other suitable degreasers. Using any good gun oil, lightly lube all pins as well as the plates on the side plate and frame where the hammer, trigger and rebound slide will rest.
To reassemble, insert the bolt spring into thebolt and carefully angle it back on to the bolt stud, replace the cylinder latch bar and spring, replace the cylinder latch, and tightent the screw firmly.
install the trigger by fineagling it back onto the frame mounted trigger pin. Put the rebound spring into the rebound bar and position the rebound bar so the little rod n the trigger assembly engages the hole in the front of the bar. Carefully compress the spring with a flat bladed screw driver until the recess in the rear of the rebound slide fits over the rebound slide retaining stud. press down on the rebound slide so that thescrew driver is gradually forced up and out while the spring is captured in place by the stud.
Brownell's sells a tool that makes this easy, part number 080-666-000. It's 20 bucks but worth it if you figure on doing this very often. Once the rebound bar is donr, replace the hammer-hand assembly and reattach the hammer spring and tighten the strain screw. It is a good idea to cycle the action now to check for correct function. If all seems ok, position the hammer block so that it will allow the side plate to slide into position. when replacing the sideplate, angle it so the top piece slips into place and then press the base into place with finger pressure. you may have to pop the plate loose by rapping the frame again and repositioning the hammer block, but never beat on the side plate. If it won't go back right with thumb pressure, something is out of place, correct it and then try again. Replace the cylinder and crane re-install and tighten the side plate screws, put the grips back on, try the action, and you are done.
Agoogle search should turn up an illustrated web posting that will help explain what my words may not have.

[scrapcan]

I must point out the "USE THE PROPER FITTING SCREWDRIVER". nothing detracts from the firearm more than buggered screws.