C Sharps 1875 & 1885

[6.5 mike]

Wife & I are taking an cruise to alaska for our 20th this fall, she has never been in that part of the country before & we'll be doing our tourist act. One of the stops is Big Timber MT, so any info on the two rifles I listed would be a big help. What I'm thinking is, a 1875 in 38-55 & the 1885 in 32-40. I just read the post on the rcbs 312 gr & lyman 335 which helped as I had looked at both as a possible mould. I do have lee's 250 gr to start with. Being 32-40 brass is hard to find I'll use 32 w-w till I do. I also have lee's 175 gr 8m/m mould that I sized down to 0.315 & pp'ed up just to see how well it would work off badger's bbl specs. I do plan to paper patch for both using smokeless.
Any inputs, BP or smokeless, moulds, sights, ect, will be a huge help. I'm planning on using lee shaver front globes w/ level, but hav'nt made up my mind on the rears yet. Have a lee shaver mid range soule on the other hiwall, & a mva mid range veneir on my sharps, & I do like both of them. Our range only goes to 200 yds & I do'nt match shoot anymore, so these will be for my enjoyment only.
Any interesting areas you might know of would also be a help, will be seeing yellowstone & a couple others.
And yes we will stop at shilo too. TIA mike :Fire:

[Gunlaker]

I have several of their rifles, 1885's and 1874's. I like them quite a bit. As far as sights go, I prefer te Lee Shaver front sights to their front sights, but like the CSA rear sights more than the Lee Shaver rear.

The one bit of advice I'd give is to go with the extra fancy wood. Their wood is generally not as nice as the stuff Shiloh sells, but the extra fancy is generally quite nice looking.

Chris.

[doubs43]

A friend just received his 1875 C. Sharps Sporting rifle with a 30" barrel chambered in 38-55. The twist is 1:15 and the chamber is cut to allow use of boolits up to 360 grains. If his initial tests with it are any indication, he has a seriously accurate rifle on his hands. His sights are Lee Shaver globe front and the Economy Vernier rear.

WRT the wood, the advice above is on the money. The wood on my friend's rifle is good straight grain walnut but as plain as can be. If you want any figuring, upgrade.

[Doc Highwall]

Another thing I would consider is the possibility of mounting a scope such as a MVA short 23" IIRC.
I think it will be a lot better to have this work done at the time of build then after.

[6.5 mike]

Thanks guys, for the info. Gun Laker, is there a reason you like C Sharps sites better ? And as far as the wood goes, I'll wait untill I see what they have, I have thought about that.
Doc, even after having both eyes re-bulit a couple years back, the scope thing may be a player, lol. Getting old is a real pain in the butt.
I'm also going to have single set triggers on both rifles, forgot to add that before. Sure wish I could find one for my uberti.

[Gunlaker]

Thanks guys, for the info. Gun Laker, is there a reason you like C Sharps sites better ? And as far as the wood goes, I'll wait untill I see what they have, I have thought about that.
Doc, even after having both eyes re-bulit a couple years back, the scope thing may be a player, lol. Getting old is a real pain in the butt.
I'm also going to have single set triggers on both rifles, forgot to add that before. Sure wish I could find one for my uberti.

My only complaint with my Lee Shaver soule sight is that the windage lines were done very poorly. The marks are uneven and crooked. Pretty much impossible to read.

Maybe mine was made on a bad day. I don't know. But I have several of the CSA sights and have no issues with any of them.

I like the Lee Shaver front sights because of the insert retention mechsnism. It's a threaded cylinder rather than the piece of spring steel that you find on the top of other sights like the CSA and MVA ones. The issue I have with that style is that the little retainer catches on things and has a tendency to get bent.

Chris.

[NickSS]

I have both rifles you are lookiing at but not in the calibers you specify. I will say this the 1875 model is one rifle that is often overlooked and should not be. I have had half a dozen of them and still own 3 and wish I had the others I traded off. They are very good guns and very accurate. They now make them with single set triggers and this will make them even better. My favorite BP rifle is an 1875 in 45-70 that I bought over 20 years ago. I also own two of their 1885 high walls. These are equally accurate rifles. I have one in 38-55 and I have fired up to 330 gr bullets in it and it is a real tack driver. When I do not hit what I aim at is my fault not the rifles. Both of mine have the single set trigger and pistol grip options which make them even nicer in my opinion. I also have one of their 1874 models in 50-70 which I bought for hunting and it two is a really nice accurate rifle. You can not go wrong with a C Sharps rifle in my opinion. I also have a couple of Shiloh rifles and they are if anything better than the ones from C Sharps but at best only marginally and they are just down the street from C Sharps so visit them both.

[mustanggt]

Are you buying of the floor or having it made to pick up on your way home? I have a 74 and 75 model. First rate work and I feel their sights are as good as anyones elses. You won't be dissipointed in the least. Shiloh is first rate as well but their lead time on their rifles are way longer than C. Sharps. I ordered both 2 years ago and they had them done in 6 weeks and 8 weeks respectively. Shiloh will take a year or more. They make their own barrels whereas John gets his from Badger. Either way you will be getting the best rifle money can buy.

[6.5 mike]

Mustanggt, it depends on what they have on hand, would be nice to skip the shipping fees. And have my new toys to take home, just which way it works out.
Gunlaker, think my shaver site is alright on markings, have to check when I get home, maybe your's is a monday site, lol.
Doc Highwall, I've been thinking bout what you said, if I have to have them built I may have at least one ( 1885) drilled & tapped. If it works out that I can leave with them & choose to drill & tap later I might connect Ben, from what I've seen in his posts he does some very nice work (hint, hint Ben). What would be the best spacing for my type shooting ? From what I read the 7.2 is the most flexable for max range adjustment. Been following Littlejack's thread on the "period scopes" with Don McDowells inputs to see how it works out for him. Maybe putting one on my uberti highwall 30-40 Krag.
We are going to visit Shilo while there, wife is interested to see how a rifle is built from start to finish instead of mine that start out as one thing & become something else when I'm done. Bullshot keeps telling me I "need" a 40-65, so maybe a shilo down the road, LOL. Thanks guys, mike :popcorn:

[mustanggt]

If you haven't been to their site here's the link: http://www.csharpsarms.com/
They have a list of what they have on the show room floor. If you have been there then disregard.

[Doc Highwall]

6.5 mike, part of the spacing depends upon the click value or increment value on the knobs and the movement that you want per click or increment.
Example most rear target sights like Redfield/Warner have a 40 threads per inch like a micrometer that moves .025" per revolution. The Redfield/Warner have 12 detent clicks per revolution. Divide .025"/ 12 = .00208333" movement per click.
Say you want 1/4" movement per click at 100 yards, divided .250" by .00208333" = 120 ratio.
100yds=3600" divided by 120 = 30" is how far apart your front and rear apertures have to be for 1/4" click value.
If you want 1/4 minute click value 0ne minute at 100 yards = 1.04719" divided by 4= .261" divided by .002083333" = 125.280 ratio.
100yds=3600" divide by 125.280 = 28.735" is how far apart your front and rear
apertures have to be for 1/4 minute click value.
I know that for black powder the micrometers have to be de-horned or no clicks and DZ Arms makes them this way. On their web site they have given the increment value along with the amount of elevation that you will have for distance.

Sight Radius: Minute of movement per line (.001”)

7.2” 1/2 minute per line (.001”) 200 minutes of elevation

10.8” 1/3 minute per line (.001”) 133 minutes of elevation

17.0” 1/5 minute per line (.001”) 80 minutes of elevation

14.4" 1/4 minute per line (.001")

http://www.hepman.com/dzarms/index.html

The Unertl scopes have .0005" movement per click so don't confuse those click values with the DZ Arms and others.

[6.5 mike]

Thanks Doc, I do remember reading that on the assra site. Has anyone tried accurate's #32-210b in a 32-40? 210 gr, 1.115 long & tapered. Looks like it might be interesting pp'ed. It's within the lenght & weight range badger lists on their site, 216 gr, 1.12 long max stabilized for a 1 in 14 twist. It is a pb boolit.

[NickSS]

They are pretty accommodating at C Sharps. I bought one of their rifles off the rack and they chambered it while I waited for it and mounted sights as well. You may be able to get them to minor things like drill and tap while you wait. It never hurts to ask.

[6.5 mike]

Thanks Nick, I'll keep that in mind. Gunlaker, just checked my shaver rear sight, lines are nice, straight & easy to see, guess I got a good one.