Lee Pro 1000

[nelson133]

I picked up a Lee Pro 1000 in a resealed box cheap, for all I know it's missng parts, i know it's missing the dies.
I've been reloading for over 30 years, but never with a progressive. If anyone is experienced with one of these, i'd appreciate any info or advice you could give. Thanks./

[R.M.]

I have the Loadmaster. I believe the 2 are similar. Their weakest point is the primer feed. I've ended up depriming and sizing in a single stage, then priming with a hand primer, then they go through the Loadmaster. I just kept jamming primers, which chews up the plastic primer feed.
Be cautious, and good luck.

R.M.

[Dale53]

I have a Lee Pro 1000 that I have had for several years. It is dedicated to .32 H&R. It does require a bit of mechanical ability to keep it in adjustment. However, it is no trick to load 500 per hour (and more) with it. All in all, I have been satisfied with it. However, it is NOT for the non-mechanical person (it's really not particularly "user-friendly"). However, once you understand that, it is a very useful tool. The case feeder works very well. I've had little problem with the primer feed. You just have to "pay attention" and watch what you are doing.

Dale53

[cgrivois]

There are many quirks that come with the Pro 1000, with time you will learn what they are, and how to deal with them. The priming system is basically a gravity feed system, so keep this in mind while your setting up and running your press. Make sure the primer trough is clean of any obstruction that the primers may get hung up on, mainly lubricant at the bottom that may spill over from the shell plate. Another common obstacle is powder that falls though a case that was not primed into a shell. So get used to the feeling of a properly primed case. On the down stroke if you notice that the primer did not seat, stop right there and correct the problem before you raise the shell plate and drop a powder charge into a case with no primer in it. I use some very fine dry graphite to coat the primer tray and the primer trough to help the primers along the track, this does seem to help. Make sure that as soon as the primer tray is empty, fill it up again. The more weight the bottom primer has on it, the better they drop into the slot at the bottom of the trough. For some reason, CCI primers seem to run the best in my press, I don’t have any clue as to why, they just do. Go ahead and buy your self some extra “ceiling fan chain” as this is what operates the powder throw system. Take the time to set it up correctly, or you will break the very week chain. I think the chain is designed to be terminal so that other parts of the machine are not broken as a result of incorrect setup. Go to the Lee website and view the videos they have on the press. They will aid you way more than the directions that may or may not have come in your previously opened box. Also while your there, decide what extra parts you will need to run the caliber you are intending to load. As in shell plate, case feeder & tubes, primer trough and tray. Last but not least, do a google search on the Lee Pro 1000. There are a couple sites out there that have addressed some more of the common problems with this press and a couple of tips that may help you. If you have some patience and a little mechanical ability the press will do just fine. This was the very first, and only press I reload on, and I managed to keep it running decent.

[cgrivois]

Oh yeah
"However, it is no trick to load 500 per hour (and more)"

Dont get hung up how many your able to get in an hour. 500 with this press is realy smoken, when you consider having to refill primer tray, case tubes if you use them, and any little glitches you may have along the way. However, I consider myself a rookie when it comes to reloading so 500 may not be far off. Just concentrate on the getting the press set up correctly and use full strokes, especialy on the down stroke, as this is when the primer is seated. One more thing you may want to get yourself in the habit of glancing at the charge in every case. Just a quick glance to make sure, there is in fact a charge, its not abnormaly low resulting in a squib round, or worse a double charge. Although double charging on this machine is hard to do because it is progressive. I have mounted a light so that I can observe the inside of the case before I place a bullet on top of it to be seated, which may be another reason I can get no where near 500 RPH.

[35remington]

As was partially mentioned before, it is the weight of the primers in the feed tray and feed chute that keeps them moving. If you allow the primer chute to become half empty the weight of the remaining primers is not sufficient to keep the primers fed under the priming punch. Lee provides an agitator pin that rides along the right rear support column but this is often insufficient to keep the primers moving.

Just keep an eye on the feed tray and agitate it gently by hand until the feed chute fills with primers. Keep an eye on it and reagitate as needed; never let it become half empty as you're courting a misfeed. You are wearing eye protection while loading, right?

Learn the feel of the press; you can feel the primer seating, the effort needed to size a case in the carbide die; the pinging and sliding of the Auto Disk measure, and bullet seating effort.

Be sure to process one case at a time initially, which allows you to get the feel of the press and everything properly adjusted. Make sure you have enough flare at the charging/expanding die to seat the bullet without shaving, but not so much as to overbell the case and prevent it from entering the seating die. Make sure the seating die, which is a taper crimp, takes the flare out of the case and presses the sides of the case against the bullet. Depending upon whether your bullet is cast or jacketed, proper case mouth diameter after seating and taper crimping will range from .468-.472" for the .45 ACP (example)--also influenced by case brand and bullet diameter.

Gauge all loaded rounds or better yet pass them through a Lee Factory Crimp Die (does not seat bullets-only crimps them and "gauges" them with a carbide insert ring at the bottom of the die) for flawless feeding. The Pro 1000 is a three station so the Factory Crimp die would be an extra, but worthwhile step. You can buy an inexpensive Lee Reloder Press (if you don't have another) to apply the factory crimp. This is less necessary with revolver cartridges.

An extra step but very worthwhile and gauges at the same time. Do NOT use the Factory Crimp die to squeeze down oversize (.454"+) bullets as this may loosen bullet pull, which you need in an automatic pistol cartridge. Size bullets to .452" BEFORE loading them.

Oh, yeah. Remember to rotate the case feed; check if it can be rotated as one tube empties and is near the bottom. When it can be rotated, do so. This avoids an empty station, which is no problem but is wasted effort when a case could have been present.

As Dale said, takes a little fiddling but can make a lot of ammo of good quality.

Some parts won't last forever; replace as needed. Be sure to put a hole in the bench so primers can get out.

Standardize on a load so you aren't constantly readjusting. I like 5.0-5.2 of Red Dot with any 185 to 230 grain bullet as it's economical, getting full velocities with small powder charges. It's also bulky, allowing an accidental double charge to be easily seen, as it darn near overflows the case. The new, reformulated Red Dot is clean burning. Always visually check the case before inserting the bullet. A small Maglite taped to the press shines light into the casemouth, and the charge of Red Dot fills the case enough that the powder can be easily seen using this method.

Some good cartridge overall lengths using ball: 1.265". Don't go over 1.275", which is the maximum overall length for the 45 ACP. Using the H&G #68 type longnose SWC: 1.255-1.260". These two bullets are reliable feeders.

This is for the .45 ACP but the principles work with other cartridges.

The press is timed with a phillips head screw underneath the shellplate, along the press ram. If the press doesn't index correctly, adjust the screw in or out until it does.

[nelson133]

Thanks greatly to all responders, I will try to set this thing up this week and see if any parts are missing. I've been reloading for a long time, but have stuck to single stage/ turret presses. I need to get more production out of my time than I am now.

[oso]

I'd make sure the shell plate carrier is fully seated and tight on the top of the ram. If this gets loose or is set high the primer won't fully seat.
Watch the chain tension for too slack as well as too tight.
Make sure the finished cartridge is clear so it won't get caught between the shell plate carrier and the top of the press.
Also good to reload one case at a time until you get used to it. I enjoy using the two I have - one was a rescued freeby that required a bit of repair.

[Baldy]

Give it to the paper boy and buy a good progressive or your going to waste a lot of time tring to get quality ammo out of the 1000 and I have owned it, and it is PITA.

[Lloyd Smale]

amen to that!
Give it to the paper boy and buy a good progressive or your going to waste a lot of time tring to get quality ammo out of the 1000 and I have owned it, and it is PITA.

[doc25]

I have the loadmaster and have replaced the chain with a piece of steel cable (steel rope) on the bottom of which I cast a .45 cal boolit as a weight to maintain tension and have not broken it since. Primers seem to be the weak spot and I think it is the little finger that applies case tension that is the problem. I am planning to make a spring to keep it tight against the case and properly aligned in the priming station.

[swheeler]

I bought one last year set up for 357, definately has a "learning curve" to it, but once you figure it out it works just fine and loads consistant and accurate ammo. Do Not run it out of primers, this has been the cause of most my headaches with it, Lee needs to put a "low primer" warning device on it- battery powered beeper or light- of course then the battery would be dead when youm went to use it. I now have individual turrets with dies set up and shell plates to load 357,38,9,45 and 223. For the 223 I use a collet die and the double disc kit, works like a charm, did some accuracy testing this summer against loads done on single stage- just as accurate. And yes it will turn out ammo at a good rate, just have everything ready to go, IIRC 2000 38spcl about 5 hours. I personally like it better than the square deal I loaded on, but I've used the Lee more, so maybe the "learning curve" applies here also. you could give two steel ball bearings to some peple, and they would break one of them, just depends on the person.

[DLCTEX]

Do not use the pro 1000 with thepowder measure using the spring return, use the chain return only as it is too easy to get a double charge with the spring return on the auto disc measure. Dale

[Dale53]

The above thread is about the Lee Pro 1000 but it could as well be about ANY progressive press. The most "user friendly" progressive that I have used is the Dillon 550B. Keep in mind, tho' that ANY progressive press absolutely demands that you have a bit of mechanical ability to keep out of trouble.

You need to pay attention to feel, sound, and degree of effort. They are all telling you something IF you pay attention. I have been using progressives since the Star loader (that was a good tool but also required some experience and mechanical ability to keep it running smooth). I loaded well over a 100,000 .45 ACP's on a CH straight line. You could really SMOKE with that tool and load match quality ammo while doing it but again, you had to pay attention.

I love progressives (presently have the Lee Pro 1000 and the Dillon 550B) but they are NOT for everyone.

Dale53

[rbstern]

I had good results with a Pro 1000 when I kept it adjusted right and clean. As long as you can follow directions and excercise patience when getting it set correctly, the Pro 1000 works well. Lotsa value for the dollar.