need trigger for Swed

[acsteve]

I fell for a very clean looking 96 (Carl Gustaff 38-50). It was previously sporterised, but I would like to upgrade the trigger. I was thinking Timney feather weight. Is this a good trigger? Are the silluet molds good for hunting? thanks

[W.R.Buchanan]

I used a Dayton Traistor in my M96. It is a drop in part on most guns.

However make sure the safety fully lifts the striker off the sear.

If it doesn't, and you pull the trigger with the safety ON,,, when you then release the safety the gun will fire. The trigger does not fully reset unless the the striker is fully off the sear when the safety is engaged.

I had to fit mine, but it is an easy job.

[Ben]

Yes , you'll definitely need to remove a good bit of wood in the orig. stock as the Timney trigger is a good bit larger than the orig. mil trigger.

Occasionally the bottom metal has to be opened up also to allow the trigger to slide through without touching on either side of the bottom metal.

[Gtek]

One other little nasty to check. If Timney is installed you do all your safety checks on that paper and then some. A gentleman brought me one he wounded an F-150 with after evening hunt. Opened door, layed muzzle on seat and started cycling out rounds. third bolt lift- BANG! Thank God nobody was hurt. Mausers have a lot of play out of battery, enough to slip over sear engagement. After each and every trigger job, check, check, check and re-check before live round. This dear old freind is a Vietnam Slick pilot and seen more than most of us can imagine. It shook him to the core. Bullets and props only have to touch you once! Be safe- Gtek

[Dutchman]

I fell for a very clean looking 96 (Carl Gustaff 38-50). It was previously sporterised, but I would like to upgrade the trigger. I was thinking Timney feather weight. Is this a good trigger? Are the silluet molds good for hunting? thanks

Could you explain the 38-50? What does that mean?

If you give me the serial number, year on the receiver and inspector initials in front of the serial number I can tell you what exact model it was. Hard to beat pictures for telling a story:).

When you install an aftermarket trigger that has a sear-blocking safety you have diminished what Paul Mauser's genius came up with. What that was is the best striker-blocking safety ever installed on a bolt action rifle. As was mentioned, the sear blocking safety is not all that safe. The striker-blocking safety is dang near foolproof, though it is possible to have excessive wear and it would possibly need a new safety lever and/or cocking piece, which are both available for the Swede.

I use Dayton triggers with no safety. There is some wood removal, about a 3/8" square chunk of wood directly in front of the rear guard screw hole and widening of the trigger opening in the stock just a wee bit. The Timney requires quite a bit more modification.

Dutch

[acsteve]

I thought I would keep the bolt shroud mounted-low profile for scope mounting safety it came to me with the rifle. The trigger I am looking at doesnt have a safety of its own and utilizes the bolt shroud safety. I hope I dont have the names of the timney triggers confused. I know some use a remington type trigger safety and others use the factory saftey, or rather the scope friendly wing saftey it has. Hope this is not too confusing. thanks, it sounds like the Timney is still a good choice. I dont plan on altering the gun to cock on opening at this time. But should I reconsider and change the rifle to cock on opening with the Traiser trigger and conversion? thanks

[acsteve]

Dutch.
The 38-50, seems to be stamped with the Carl Gustafs 38 50. I am not sure if that means the rifle is a model 38. The factory stamping are very strong and the reciever looks excellent. This is not a serial number stamp. It does have a factory looking sight just were the barrel looks to have had the 3rd step of the barrel cut off. I have yet to slug it yet, and the metal disk which remains on the stock does not have any barrel information.

[keyhole]

Acsteve

I have a Timney for M96 Swede Mauser which was never installed. Bought it 10+ years ago. Like others have mentioned on this thread, it required removing more wood than I cared to perform. If you decide that a Timney is what you want, let me know. We can work out something.

Keyhole

[Dutchman]

Dutch.
The 38-50, seems to be stamped with the Carl Gustafs 38 50. I am not sure if that means the rifle is a model 38. The factory stamping are very strong and the reciever looks excellent. This is not a serial number stamp. It does have a factory looking sight just were the barrel looks to have had the 3rd step of the barrel cut off. I have yet to slug it yet, and the metal disk which remains on the stock does not have any barrel information.

Some Swede carbines were stamped G33/50 by Interarms. It covers the original manufacturing date right below where it says Carl Gustafs stads Gevarsfaktori. That would mean yours is a carbine. Is the rear sight ladder rather short or longer?

Carbines have a unique serial number range. With the serial number I can tell you what year it was made and verify if it is a carbine (was a carbine). You really haven't given enough information which is why I asked specific questions. Pictures are way cool around these parts :).

<-----woo hoo.. 800 posts.

Dutch

[acsteve]

SN ON LEFT SIDE 51,000. Swede, you are right, it is marked interarms, I really need to be more observant.

[Dutchman]

It's [was] a m/1894 carbine.


1907:
39600
39726
43xxx (Swedish Navy)
44096
46956
47168 (Swedish Navy)
47523
47758
47999
48662
496xx
49791
52764
53065
53468
53785

Dutch

[acsteve]

thank you, Dutch, she is drawing me to find out more about Sweds. Can you suggest some Swedish resourse books? Thanks. Would the age of this 94 be about 1910-ish. If so,it sure looks like Sweds took much better care or their tools than the Germans. Would Interarms have done much more than sporterise the carbine?

[Dutchman]

It was made in 1907.

Crown Jewels: The Mauser in Sweden by Dana Jones. Don't waste $$ on anything else.

Interarms did not sporterize carbines. Bubba did the dirty deed. Bubba and his brother Cousin JoeBob live in a cabin in U.P. Michigan. They've customized many Swede carbines over the years. Your carbine is a fine example of a $750 carbine turned into a $150 Bambi killer. There are many such carbines out there like yours.

Everybody asks: How much would it cost to restore it?

$300+ for a stock & bayonet mount alone if you could fine them. In other words, it's just not practical.

Dutch

[acsteve]

I hope this does not offend, but I actually have been looking to retrace the steps of my father. A lifetime ago, he had a Berlin 95, shilen barrel, mannlicher stock, pewter nosecap, which he did take many deer, and he shot exceptionally well. Because of sentimental value, I only shoot it on the nicest of days. I look forward using his checkering tools and the like. They will be used on their third and final gun. Two of dads, one of mine. This not a cheap rifle to me, it is time with my departed father.

[Dutchman]

Prior to 1968 rifles like the Swede carbine and 1895 Chilean rifles, some even in "new" condition, cost very little due to the glut of imports of such firearms. Swedes were $29 for many years.

The world was a simpler place then. To buy a military rifle and sporterize it was common. Very common. There were lots of books and magazine articles about doing just that. You could say it was acceptable.

But in 2011 (and many years prior) collectors of military firearms bemoan the loss of those "like new" and "unissued" rifles. They were manufactured during the golden age of Mauser development. There have never been rifles made since then that equaled the fit and finish. So, naturally, what you and I see when we look at such a rifle are diametrically opposite images. To my eyes there is nothing special about a sporterized/customized 1895 Chilean Mauser. It's not a particularly good choice for a sporter/hunting rifle due to the inferior action design when compared to the 1898 Mauser action.

Your "95 Berlin" is probably a Mauser Chileno Modelo 1895 manufactured by Ludwig Loewe of Berlin in 7x57 Mauser. I consider Loewe to be the top of the heap of all Mauser manufacturers due to the absolute quality of their finished products. But the 1895 lacks gas escape features and as a result is a less-than-safe rifle. You'll notice the bolt of the Swede has some holes. Those are gas escape ports. The 98 Mauser has huge oval ports due to an accident in which Paul Mauser lost his right EYE when a cartridge ruptured and escaping gas came back through the action... into his eye. The 98 Mauser action remedied most of that lacking.

If you shoot cast bullets in your 7x57 1895 you can shoot it a gazillion times without causing any noticeable wear or stress. This is mostly what I do with my over-100 yr old rifles.

So, you're a non-gun person mostly and you came here to learn more about your firearm. What you'll get from me is the whole story, not part of the story.


Dutch

[acsteve]

Dutch
thank you for your insite.
You are very well spoken
I will have other questions...