Mihec mould problem

[FrankG]

After casting some super hollowpoint bullets with the brass 440 Hp mould I got from MiHec a few weeks ago I didnt bother to remove handles from mould . When I tried to swap the handles today to another mould I found the screws were siezed in blocks ! I sprayed them down with Kroil and have them setting upside down , hoping the Kroil will seep in along side threads to I can remove screws . If not , next I will try warming the blocks with propane torch a little as the brass should heat quicker than the steel , hopefully ! They (screws)will be lubed with antisieze before re-install!

Anyone else run into this ?

[cbrick]

No but being a nervous Nelly about screwing steel screws (bolts) into aluminum or brass and then heating it up there is a tube of anti-sieze in the front center drawer of my casting bench.

Aluminum cylinder heads that have bolts installed in them without anti-sieze have the bolts as a permanent part of the head. Cylinder heads do not get, or shouldn't, nearly as hot as the operating temp of a bullet mold. Better safe than sorry.

Rick

[cbrick]

Hhmmm . . . I usually get into trouble when I start thinking too much but . . .

This thread made me think of NOE's instructions with their aluminum molds and heating them in an oven, allowing to cool and repeating a couple of times.

Steel sleeves pressed into aluminum for the guide pins. I bet the oven heating cooling cycle is to lock the sleeves into the aluminum so that there will never be any movement. I should PM him & ask but at any rate this confirms my desire to use anti-seize on the threads. Seems that this should have been the first thing I thought of when I read the directions but it took this thread and a knock on the head to force me to think.

Rick

[btroj]

Would Bullplate applied to the screw threads and the hole in the blocks help prevent this? What about the lube that Miha includes with the mould?

Just wondering.

[RobS]

I use Bullplate on my mold screw threads and no problems this direction; it just seemed logical. :)

[white eagle]

after having to drill out a couple of screws I to take the logical approach

[bearcove]

Anti-sieze on anything you want to take apart later.

[cbrick]

I wondered about using Bullplate but didn't know the long term effectiveness so didn't suggest it. I played it safe and used the anti-sieze.

Anyone with many heat/cool cycles on an aluminum mold using Bullplate could chime in and let us know. RobS said he uses Bullplate on the screws, how many cycles? Could be good to know.

Rick

[Jailer]

Why are you removing the handles? Lee handles are pretty cheap, why not just leave them on and get a set for each mold?

[FrankG]

Whew !! :) I used a hex driver bit in the screw ,give it a tap with an 8oz. ball pien hammer , put on driver handle and it popped loose !! Same with the other screw !! Yee Haa !! :mrgreen: Put a little anti-sieze on threads and put the screws back in .

Im a happy camper now :bigsmyl2:

[btroj]

I only own 2 sets of Lee handles. They are cheap but so am I.
I will start using Bullplate on mine or get some anyiseize. Have not had a problem but don't want to start now.

[MT Gianni]

Why are you removing the handles? Lee handles are pretty cheap, why not just leave them on and get a set for each mold?

Eventually you will want to take them out. It might be a cracked handle or something else but it will need to be unscrewed at some time.

[RobS]

I wondered about using Bullplate but didn't know the long term effectiveness so didn't suggest it. I played it safe and used the anti-sieze.

Anyone with many heat/cool cycles on an aluminum mold using Bullplate could chime in and let us know. RobS said he uses Bullplate on the screws, how many cycles? Could be good to know.

Rick

Good point as to cycles and I just took the handles off an aluminum mold after a year and a half's time with a good 40 heat/cool cycles.

[RobS]

Why are you removing the handles? Lee handles are pretty cheap, why not just leave them on and get a set for each mold?


Lee handles are inexpensive true, but one reason would be to sell a mold or could be to change up handles. I recently gave a mold away leaving me an extra set of handles which I used to switch out on another mold that had handles with cracked wood.

[Iron Mike Golf]

On my first Mihec mold, I did not lube the screws. I snapped off a hex head. I used the supplied lube on the threads of my second Mihec mold and that seems to be working fine. Every other heat/cool cycle, I re-lube.

[cbrick]

Good point as to cycles and I just took the handles off an aluminum mold after a year and a half's time with a good 40 heat/cool cycles.

Thanks, that is good to know.

Sounds like another reason Bullplate is a must on every casting bench . . . Anti-Sieze for aluminum and brass molds.

Yet another score in the learning process on Castboolits.

Just how did any bullets ever get cast before Bullplate anyway?

Rick

[alamogunr]

I use anti-seize as well. A little 1/2 pt can will last several lifetimes. I also use it on the screw bases of light bulbs. I don't like using needle nose pliers to remove the base after the bulb breaks off. Happens more often with the Chinese bulbs.

John
W.TN

[bearcove]

I use anti-seize as well. A little 1/2 pt can will last several lifetimes. I also use it on the screw bases of light bulbs. I don't like using needle nose pliers to remove the base after the bulb breaks off. Happens more often with the Chinese bulbs.

John
W.TN

:idea:LIGHT BULBS! Another problem solved

[MiHec]

Whew !! :) I used a hex driver bit in the screw ,give it a tap with an 8oz. ball pien hammer , put on driver handle and it popped loose !! Same with the other screw !! Yee Haa !! :mrgreen: Put a little anti-sieze on threads and put the screws back in .

Im a happy camper now :bigsmyl2:

This is old automechanics trick - works nice on aluminum , brass.....

[captaint]

The first thing I do to my Miha molds is loosen the sprue plate. They always seem a little too tight to me. So after putting a piece of lead shot under the locking screw, I lube the handle screw threads. Just makes sense, and it works. Keeps me happy. enjoy Mike

[tuckerdog]

Why are you removing the handles? Lee handles are pretty cheap, why not just leave them on and get a set for each mold?

thats what I do just leave handles on molds, a pain to store when you get a collection of molds, but I seemed to have gotten into the habit of ordering handles with molds

[MikeS]

The first thing I do to my Miha molds is loosen the sprue plate. They always seem a little too tight to me. So after putting a piece of lead shot under the locking screw, I lube the handle screw threads. Just makes sense, and it works. Keeps me happy. enjoy Mike

Ok, I just have to ask this... If you're putting a piece of lead shot to protect the threads of the screw being locked on something that gets as hot as a mould does, what keeps the lead shot from melting in place, and then not providing any locking abilities?

I understand the desire to protect the threads, I'm just wondering if lead shot is the best thing for that purpose?

[btroj]

The mould should never get hot enough to melt lead. If it did how would the bullets ever harden.
I believe that a mould temp of 450 to 500 is considered hot yet a pot temp of 650 is pretty low.

You do the math.

[Elkins45]

The mould should never get hot enough to melt lead. If it did how would the bullets ever harden.
I believe that a mould temp of 450 to 500 is considered hot yet a pot temp of 650 is pretty low.

You do the math.

Just don't ever use that mold to do a soft nose bullet by the immersion remelting fusion method.

[btroj]

I don't think I would worry even then. So the shot melts a little? Where is it going to go? It will most likely never be removed or anything else so what is the harm?
Seems like much ado about nothing.

[MikeS]

I don't think I would worry even then. So the shot melts a little? Where is it going to go? It will most likely never be removed or anything else so what is the harm?
Seems like much ado about nothing.

I was just thinking that even if it just softened up a bit that it wouldn't provide the locking ability that it was put in there to provide.

[Dale53]

MikeS;
I have several moulds with a lead shot locking the screw without issues.

However, if it bothers you, then do as others here have done, get a small bit of brass brazing rod to place under the set screw.

Dale53

[MikeS]

Hey, if it works then I'm all for it. I just didn't think it would. I guess I learned something today! (I'm saying that in all seriousness, even tho I know it sounds sarcastic I don't mean it that way).

[captaint]

Yeah, I could never say if it melts or not, but the sprue plate screw does stay tight. I also liked the idea of a little piece of solid copper wire under the locking screw. They both work. enjoy Mike

[montana_charlie]

If you're putting a piece of lead shot to protect the threads of the screw being locked on something that gets as hot as a mould does, what keeps the lead shot from melting in place, and then not providing any locking abilities?
My logic machine works like yours does, That's why I snip off a bit of copper or aluminum wire to drop in the hole for the set screw. Brazing rod would do just as well.

I don't worry about the dissimilar metals because I use anti-sieze on all threaded fasteners in a mould ... including the set screw.

I use Bullplate on 'sliding surfaces' like the mould top and the sprue plate.

Finally, I use (either) Bullplate, or spray graphite, on the complete exterior of the mould to prevent sticking lead.

[cbrick]

Lead shot works well under the set screw, most of my molds have this except the RCBS. RCBS molds come with a short piece of brass under the screw. RCBS by the way will send you a few extra of them if you ask the next time you have them on the phone.

Rick