A solution for non-crimping that might count as crimping

[Plinkster]

I was getting lead shaving while seating boolits for my No 1. So I simply flared the case mouth ever so slightly and problem #1 solved and problem #2 arose. How would I eliminate the flaring without a crimp die? (didn't buy a crimp yet) So I thunk it over a little and came up with an idea, I simply pulled the sizing mandrel out of my Lee collet neck sizing die and ran the now loaded rounds through. It was slick and way easy, just thought I'd toss this tip out for those who don't need or want a real crimp.:coffeecom

[montana_charlie]

If you pull a bullet from one of your reloads, will it still be as fat as it was when originally seated?

CM

[stubshaft]

Why couldn't you just set the seating die to just iron out the flare? I see where you are coming from CM. Unless the die is adjusted just right the boolit will be sized down too.

[Doc_Stihl]

Makes good sense. You can back the collet die out to give as little or as much contact as you want. Could probably even through a couple thick washers on to just crimp the top of the brass enough to "straighten" it out.

[Gunlaker]

Will the round still chamber with the flare left in the case? If so, I'd leave it alone. If not, you can use the Lyman taper crimp die set VERY light. Some use the sizing die backed way off. I prefer to leave the flare alone if possible. It is very easy to bugger up the bullet with any of these tricks.

Chris.

[quack1]

I just take the primer punch /expander button stem out of the sizing die and run the loaded cartridge in until it lightly bumps, and the flare is gone. It only takes a light bump to smooth it out.

[Plinkster]

I just give it a little pinch in the collet die to smooth out the flare, not even close to the 25 lbs of force Lee recommends for case sizing. I have the collet die set up to size only the top 2/3 of the case neck. Also I can't adjust the seating die to remove the flare because I use the Lee dead length seating die and it doesn't actually contact the case mouth. The 3 boolits I tested and pulled this way all measured the same as when they went into the case. I might also mention that these were originally a 35 remington die set from Lee that I modified with extended bases to function for my 35 Whelen Improved case. And no the rounds wouldn't chamber so that's how I got to this "fix", well that and I'm too cheap to buy a real crimp die when this seems to work fine.

[Doc Highwall]

For a single shot like the Ruger no1 I would leave the flair as long as it chambered because it will help center the bullet in the throat of the gun and would be one less operation. This is what I do for my single shot guns.

[Plinkster]

Yeah a smaller flare might chamber, I'll have to try that. I figured since these were fire formed cases from .30-06 to 35 Whelen improved and then only the top 2/3 of the neck being sized that they'd be pretty centered even without using a flare. Does that make sense? The bottom third of the neck would keep the case centered in the chamber? I'll be the first to admit this is a new hobby/addiction for me but my background as a machinst makes me think that'd keep things lined up well. I'll give a smaller flare a try though, fewer steps are always good :happy dance:

[Doc Highwall]

The flair should only be large enough to prevent shaving lead and no more as it only work hardens the brass shorting it's life.
You do not need a chamfer on the inside or outside of the case when flaring the case mouth for cast bullets, just remove burrs.