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snapthecat
04-26-2011, 08:39 PM
I have an old Lyman single cavity. Tried to use it today and it was hard to open which was the first indication of sticking. Ant then it took more abuse than I was comfortable with to loosen the bullet. I smoked the cavities, but same thing. What can I do to make them drop out? Thanks

RobS
04-26-2011, 08:45 PM
Lube the alignment pins if you havent with a mold lube. Then I would take a magnifier and look closely at the cavities for any burrs which you can take carefully off with a sharp blade.

These two things are common to look for and if these two things don't work come back and we'll work on helping you out some more. Welcome to the forum!!!

Molly
04-27-2011, 05:29 PM
One thing I've done repeatedly with excellent results is officially a major no-no. But when I get a sticky mold or a sticky cavity, I stick a brass brush in my dremel tool and go over the offending areas. I'm careful that the motion of the brush is from the mold interior toward the outside, but don't take any pains other than that. This has tamed some really nasty molds and made them at least tolerable, and sometimes quite loveable.

Check your (cooled) bullets under a magnifier. Use a scribe to mark the bases so you know which cavity they come from. Very often, you'll find short scrape marks right at the parting line from bad cavities. The brush will usually cure that. If not, gently run the tip of the scribe along the edge of the cavity. You'll usually feel the offending burr, and can rub it smooth with the side of the scribe tip.

adrians
04-27-2011, 11:24 PM
in the past when this problem has cropped up and no visible burrs are apparent use a sharpened pencil and run it around the cavity (both halves), if minute burrs are there this seems to 'smooth them out".
may help, may not, but it's worth a shot...:evil::veryconfu:twisted:

geargnasher
04-27-2011, 11:58 PM
I've often chucked a bronze brush in a cordless drill, closed the mould around it, and hit the go button, forward for a bit and then reverse. If you make provisions to not dig the steel wire tip into the end of the cavity, it won't tear up the mould.

Gear

Love Life
04-28-2011, 12:41 AM
For molds that are stubborn about releasing boolits i always use the lee-menting method with the boolit coated with mother's aluminum polish. Usually does the trick.

Iowa Fox
04-28-2011, 01:14 AM
What Lyman mold number do you have? I have a Lyman 35793 that is the sticking est mold I have ever encountered. The pointy little devils just seem to weld to the blocks.

shotman
04-28-2011, 01:18 AM
Kroil or send to me and I will fix and return

462
04-28-2011, 11:03 AM
After you've determined what the cause of the problem is and have corrected it, there will not be any need to continue to smoke the mould.

Ben
04-29-2011, 07:49 PM
This will definitely solve your problem :

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=47669