Custom j-frame grips feeler

[Angus]

After making a really spectacular grip for my H&R 676:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=114160
I am thinking I want to pattern off my 5" model 60 and make some j-frame grips. I need to do a little market research before I get started, so I need a few answers:

1) Do people actually like the original j-frame type stocks? The little ones that don't extend past the frame in any dimension but make for a very concealable pistol.

2) Do most people prefer a grip that extends forward of the frame, with or without finger grooves?

3) Do most people like a grip that covers the backstrap, allowing better indexing of their finger on the trigger?

4) Do most people find a need for the grip to extend below the grip frame to allow the pinky a happy place to live?

5) Is any Northeastern hardwood more appealing to most of you than any other. I have access to curly maple in abundance right now, with a lead on some pretty wild curly beech and cherry. Unfortunately I live just a little too far north for walnut.

6) Finally, what would a good price be for an upstart grip maker to put on their first sets before any real custom orders are taken?

Any guidance you guys can give would really be appreciated. I'm hoping to have a couple prototypes turned out in a couple weeks based on what the cast boolit crowd has to offer in the way of advice.

[Char-Gar]

I much prefer the older square butt J frames. In fact I hunted them up. The round butt doesn't give enough distance between the hand and the trigger and I don't shoot them well. The square butt gives enough extra distance to cure that.

Most folks who buy J frames want them for a belly gun and want the smallest package they can get. I guess that is the reason the SB grip went the way of the Doo-Doo bird.

[Walt]

For my round butt concealment J frames I want a boot style grip. It should block the rear of the trigger guard so your knuckles don't get whacked, it should not protrude below the grip frame, and the backstrap should be exposed. For square butt or round butt J's used as kit guns a more hand filling grip may be wanted.

[Heavy lead]

After making a really spectacular grip for my H&R 676:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=114160
I am thinking I want to pattern off my 5" model 60 and make some j-frame grips. I need to do a little market research before I get started, so I need a few answers:

1) Do people actually like the original j-frame type stocks? The little ones that don't extend past the frame in any dimension but make for a very concealable pistol. No, at least not me. If I'm going to conceal the little rubber boot grips go on.

2) Do most people prefer a grip that extends forward of the frame, with or without finger grooves? Yes, with finger grooves, although I could live without the fingergrooves if needed.

3) Do most people like a grip that covers the backstrap, allowing better indexing of their finger on the trigger? Yes please, think Herrett's Jordan Trooper to fill in the annoying and painfull notch for the web of the hand.

4) Do most people find a need for the grip to extend below the grip frame to allow the pinky a happy place to live? Yes, man sized grips.

5) Is any Northeastern hardwood more appealing to most of you than any other. I have access to curly maple in abundance right now, with a lead on some pretty wild curly beech and cherry. Unfortunately I live just a little too far north for walnut.Curly maple would set with me.

6) Finally, what would a good price be for an upstart grip maker to put on their first sets before any real custom orders are taken?Can't help you here, you have to decide what your time is worth. However if they are good quality, that will be worth a lot. I would imagine these will be time consuming, especially the grip I'm desribing.

Any guidance you guys can give would really be appreciated. I'm hoping to have a couple prototypes turned out in a couple weeks based on what the cast boolit crowd has to offer in the way of advice. For what I would want, look up the Jordan Trooper and add fingergroove. Like I said before, I could live without the fingergrooves if needed.

[Angus]

Good stuff guys, thanks a lot. One more thing though. While checkering is out the the question since I have never done it and it is a much more precision operation than I am up for tackling, I am not opposed to stippling. Is texture on a wood grip really important?

[Heavy lead]

I have both, but I would prefer smooth.

[Angus]

Benz, unfortunately I don't have anything with the SP/GP grip frame anymore, so grips for those platforms are in the distant future.

[olafhardt]

l love J frames, l have several. Only one, a 3 in 317 has the factory grip, model 60s in 357 really needed and got Decellorators, a model 34 kit gun and a 637 38 have some old Sile grips l got years ago thar look like Charter grips. The last two are my favotites. I got rid of my square grips. All of the are round rubber grips that cover the backstrap, extend below the frame and have fillers behind the trigger. l have a box full of take offs and tried but didnt like

[fourarmed]

For concealment, it is hard to beat the factory grips with a Tyler T-grip adapter. Something that size should be your first try, I would say. The only other thing I have seen that I would like is no longer made AFAIK. I think it was by Bianchi. It was a rubber grip ala Pachmayr, but it hooded the hammer like the old Bodyguards. I would really love to run across one of those.