Cutting a 32 Long Boolet To Fit 32 acp?

[Eddie O]

Just purchased a beautiful VZOR 50 from Century International Arms Inc. Also purchased a half dozen boxes of .32 acp, a little more expensive than some, but Brass and Boxer Primed. Never used this Cal. before so I pulled out my copy of Lee's Modern Reloading. Saw the recommended Bullet for Reloading was .312 Diam and Lead weight between 77 & 84 Grains. And Listed the Powder Recommendations for that Load.

Went looking for a Round Nose Lead Mold to fit those Specs and found None, Zilch, Nada.

My question in two Parts;
1.) I found a $19 Lee Mold for .32 S&W Long at .311 and 93 Grains, A workable Diam., but a little Long and Heavy for the .32 acp. (Need comment yes or No) on casting the .32 Long and using my Wire Cutters to clip the Boolet at the rear Lube Ring, which would give me a .311 Boolet most likely in the 75 - 85 Grain range and the right length for the .32 acp.
2.) Would like to use my favorite Handgun Powder HP-38 and thought 1.5 Grains would be a good Starting Load? Comments? (Are you a Fool is already taken by my Wife)
By the way I should mention,the Loads are only for tin can plinking
All comment, both Pro and Con are welcome, I'm a Novice with just enough experience to kill myself.

By the way on Mr. Lee's recommendation for Powders, if anyone were to follow all of the Powder recommendations in his book he would need to construct an A-Bomb Shelter to House it.

Thanks,
Eddie O

[Doby45]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=461615

[rond]

I had a friend mill that section of the mold off and it now drops a 67 grain bullet for my .32 acp. You might be able to do it with a file or a grinder if you're careful.

[Eddie O]

I had a friend mill that section of the mold off and it now drops a 67 grain bullet for my .32 acp. You might be able to do it with a file or a grinder if you're careful.

Thanks,

Great Idea, I see others have run into a problem with finding a suitable .32 acp Mold.

The .32 Mold being sold at Midway is throwing a 90 Grain .32 Flat Nose, still 6 Grains heavier than the 84 Grain .32 acp maximum Boolit weight Lee recommends.

I've learned that tolerances are subjective, but I still like to remain close to the recommendations.

Thanks for a good idea,

Eddie O

[captaint]

eddie - good luck, you'll need it!!! Mike

[runfiverun]

ain't no way you are gonna cut no boolit and have it useable.

[Mk42gunner]

There are a number of Lyman/ Ideal molds that were designed for the .32 ACP. However, they will cost more than a Lee mold.

You may (or may not) be able to mill the top off a Lee mold to get what you want.

My Fifth Ed. of Hornady's Handbook of Cartridge Reloading lists HP-38 behind a 71 gr FMJ in amounts ranging from 2.0 to 2.2 grains. Please verify this for yourself, I could have made a typograhical error.

Robert

[Eddie O]

There are a number of Lyman/ Ideal molds that were designed for the .32 ACP. However, they will cost more than a Lee mold.

You may (or may not) be able to mill the top off a Lee mold to get what you want.

My Fifth Ed. of Hornady's Handbook of Cartridge Reloading lists HP-38 behind a 71 gr FMJ in amounts ranging from 2.0 to 2.2 grains. Please verify this for yourself, I could have made a typograhical error.

Robert

I see the same load data for the 71 gr FMJ, but Lee does not list HP-38 for any of the heavier Lead Rounds. I know my initial thought of 1.5 gr of HP-38 for a 82 - 85 gr Lead Round nose is most likely extremely consecrative and may not even cycle the Weapon.

Although the VZOR 50 I got from Century looks near unused, the Barrel is pristine. I need to get all the Cosmoline off for a full inspection but it looks like the $10 Hand Pick, a good Salesman, Josh and early order got me the cream of the crop.

That is if you consider $209 for a forty year old .32 acp a good deal, I do since I collect VZ Handguns. But in loading for them I'm always concerned about their age although I'm told not too.

After going through several Ammo scares I now make it a point to be able to Reload for every Weapon I own, and have adequate supplies on hand. I normally buy the inexpensive Lee Molds since they are only meant for Fall Back on in a emergency. For a .32 I'm not sure I want to invest in high end reloading Molds

Hopefully Millimg the Lee Mold will work, If not it was only $20 and I will have fun doing it. If it appears to work, I;ll Post pictures before I pull the trigger.

Hopefully all will go well, if not I;m sure someone will tell me.

Thanks for the input,

Eddie O .

[Bret4207]

I would strongly recommend you get beyond the Lee book. I'm sure Ken Waters has a "Pet Loads" on the 32ACP ad that's the first place I'd look along with Lyman and RCBS.

[gray wolf]

I'm a Novice with just enough experience to kill myself.

I hope your alone if you do.

Lyman, and RCBS make nice molds for the 32 ACP. I use the RCBS with great satisfaction.
Lets get real here, do you know what the back of a bullet will look like after you attack it with a pare of side cutters ??
Why not just try a round ball ? or a small marble ? or a ball bearing ?
Cutting down ( milling the top off ) a lee mold doe's not always work out.
I would like to see you at least trying to do it correctly.
I am the fist one to try and save money, cheap is good.
But even Mc Iver would walk away from this one.

[Finster101]

I would go for this, the 313640. I plan on getting one when finances permit.

http://www.brp.castpics.net/P1.html

[gnoahhh]

Ixnay on cutting bullets in half. Get the proper mould or forget about it. The money spent for a Lyman .32ACP mould will be offset by the savings from not having to buy the outrageous factory ammo.

Being an inveterate experimenter I too would try milling the top off of the Lee mould. I honestly don't see why it wouldn't work. Mill it flush with the bottom of the top band, re-drill for the sprue plate screw, and Voila! The only trick will be in getting the mould cavity perfectly plumb in the milling machine vise or a slanted-based bullet will be the result and it won't shoot worth a tinker's dam. I wouldn't trust a Lee mould to have the sides of the blocks true in relation to the cavity. Set it up so the top of the mould is level. A dial indicator is your friend for that (after first casting some bullets with it to guarantee the base is level to begin with).

[turbo1889]

First of all I would like to inform you that for loading 32-ACP you may use "32-S&W Short" maximum charge loads as start loads. The 32-Short cartridge has just slightly less internal case capacity (and when I say slight I do mean only a very slight difference) and is loaded to lower pressure levels then the 32-ACP. The important thing is that normally the 32-Short is loaded with heavier weight boolits (its primarily a cast lead boolit cartridge) that are seated deeper inside the case compared to conventional loads with the 32-ACP which is normally loaded with light weight jacketed bullets no heavier then 71gr. that are only seated about 0.15"-0.20" inside the case neck. Using the max load listed for the 32-Short as your start load for loading heavier weight boolits that are seated deeper in the case is an excellent solution to the problems encountered with loading 80 to 100 grain weight cast lead boolits in the 32-ACP. I've been doing it for years with great success.

As far as cutting off the tail of the cast boolits with your snips. That is going to seriously distort your boolits and isn’t going to work. It may be possible to very carefully cut the base section off with a small fine toothed mini hack-saw. That would be time consuming but should allow you to make a handful of test boolits to see how the altered boolit would shoot before you go to the extent and expense of having the top milled off your mold blocks to permanently alter it. If you do decide to have your mold milled down I would suggest you have it professionally done. There are several members of this forum that are highly competent and highly skilled craftsmen in the metal working arts who should be able to help you and of course there is always Eric @ Hollow Point Mold Services.

[Wayne Smith]

Eddie, if you are an experienced machinist and have the tools, go ahead and mill down the mold. Otherwise, PM Buckshot. Be aware that likely none of the sides, top, or bottom are square on that block.

[beemer]

I have used the Lee 311-100-2R in my CZ-50 but it is to heavy and leaves little room for the powder, this makes powder charges very sensitive. With Bullseye there was about a half of a grain of powder between operating the pistol and hotter than I cared for. The 93 gr. bullet would work but would still be heavier than I would like but if I had it I would give it a try.
If you haven't bought one yet I would try to find a proper one, it will save you money in the long run.

You can cut the mould down, I cut down a single cavity 309-113-F to 100 gr. for my 32 S&W Long, it worked fine so it can be done.I did do it with a file,being a single cavity made it easier than a double cavity. I ended up borrowing a Lyman 85 gr. mould and pouring a nice pile so I am set for a good while. I don't know how the Lee TL314-90-SWC would work but I made some flat nose by sizing with a flat punch, it was a waste of time, they would not feed in my pistol.

I size my bullets to .310 and just lube the bottom groove, you just have to tinker with it. I started low with the powder and worked up till the pistol functioned reliably and stopped at that point. The recoil is a little snappy with even light loads, I guess because of the recoil operation. There also seems to be a lot of variation between different brands of cases.

Have fun chasing your brass!
Dave

[Doughty]

I don't think Eddie O means to shoot cut off bullets, but is just trying to get an idea of what a cut off bullet might weigh.

[mdi]

I had a friend mill that section of the mold off and it now drops a 67 grain bullet for my .32 acp. You might be able to do it with a file or a grinder if you're careful.
I was gonna say the same thing. Cutting a lead bullet with a hand tool would prolly be hit-or-miss as far as length and/or weight. I had a Lee die I modified by hand. I took the handles off the mold blocks and secured the sides togerther with small c-clamps and used a piece of emery cloth on a pane of glass to remove metal from the base side of the mold. Carefully kept the mold flat against the emery/glass on my benchtop, and changed direction of sanding often to keep the mold top square.

[Will]

I've cut off 311291 to get a 150gr PB type. After cutting you need to file base flat and weigh to get them all the same. Very time consuming but works. I'd just work up a load for the boolit as is. I've seen loads for the 32acp with 100gr boolits. The 93gr should work ok.

[woody1]

I see the same load data for the 71 gr FMJ, but Lee does not list HP-38 for any of the heavier Lead Rounds. I know my initial thought of 1.5 gr of HP-38 for a 82 - 85 gr Lead Round nose is most likely extremely consecrative and may not even cycle the Weapon.

Hopefully all will go well, if not I;m sure someone will tell me.

Thanks for the input,

Eddie O .

Eddie, Eddie, Eddie, first of all, do not consider the Lee book the only or best authority/. Lee only lists loads copied from other sources.

I urge you to slug your barrel. The 32 acp can have barrel diameters ranging from .308 to who knows where.

Either the Lyman 311252 or 313249 work dandy in MY Walther 32 ACP. Regards, Woody

[Multigunner]

I have cut off the lower portion of a .303 cast boolit to form a wadcutter for BP loads in .32 S&W for my Iver Johnson Safety Hammerless.
I later found I didn't need BP loads for this pistol, it has the Smokeless era frame, only its latch hinge screw was at fault, being too soft and bending when smokeless cartridges were fired.

A shorter bullet can be thrown by turning a plug to fit the lower portion of the mold. I'd suggest a softer steel than the steel the mold is made of, or perhaps aluminum.

[Eddie O]

I have cut off the lower portion of a .303 cast boolit to form a wadcutter for BP loads in .32 S&W for my Iver Johnson Safety Hammerless.
I later found I didn't need BP loads for this pistol, it has the Smokeless era frame, only its latch hinge screw was at fault, being too soft and bending when smokeless cartridges were fired.

A shorter bullet can be thrown by turning a plug to fit the lower portion of the mold. I'd suggest a softer steel than the steel the mold is made of, or perhaps aluminum.

This is a Great Site, lots of good information here.

Several things I worded poorly, I had a wild idea of cutting Boolits but dismissed that as well as any other means of cutting as I wrote. Basically I was thinking out loud about things I dismissed.

Although cutting and filing a little at a time would give me the answer to how much I would need to Mill to get to the weight of the Boolit I wanted. My desire was a Lead Round between 75 and 80 Grains, dependent on how high I needed to cut into the upper Lube Ring (Which I wanted to preserve)

Rond was the first to give me the answer I needed, Mill the Mold and leave the Boolits alone.

I pulled out one of my Lee Molds to take a close look and found that the Machine Marks were not even polished out of the Mold (Shoddy, I could do better with a File)
The Spur and cutter were all one piece and held flat to the Mold by one Machine Screw. (that needed to be tightened periodically, least the Boolits start cutting a MM or two too long.

After examining the Lee Mold I see absolutely no reason in the World it cant be Milled to throw a smaller Boolet in the same Cal. family. Also no reason the Spur Plate Hole cant be tapped a little deeper to accommodate the thinner Block.
Hell, I reform Brass Cases to different Cals. all the time. All of my "Expensive" Makarov Cases are re-formed 9MM Luger (The Base is painted Red)

My Brother is a Machinist who will do the Milling for me once I give him the Specs. which I am gaining here.

I hadn't thought about taking the weight off the nose, but that still leaves the problem of compressing the Charge as both Lube Rings would need to be set in the Case. I'll file that one for a Rifle Cal.

The Idea here is to go Basic and do a fun project that works, to say yes I did and be able to Make/Alter something usable that did not exist before.

Hell as suggested I could pull out my Checkbook and order an expensive Mold, but like my Makarov Cases where's the fun in that.

By the way the Tag "I'm a Novice with just enough knowledge to kill myself" was a Joke, Actually I'm 63 years old, have a C&RFFL, and been collecting, building and shooting Military Weapons for over forty years. I'm an NRA Member, Strong Supporter of Citizen Carry and Right Wing Political Activist.

I'm Retired now, still love to shoot, I got into reloading two years ago to save some money to buy more Guns (Like Peanuts you always want one more) Was buying Berry's Plated Boolits when one of the Guys at MarylandShooters suggested I try this Site.
I came over and found some very nice folks to help with some of my Boolits Projects and decided to stay.

I've stayed with Lee because thats what I started with. Initally I avoided buying a lot of expensive Books or other items, not knowing if I would stay with the Hobby, two years in I have been picking up an item here and there, but no major purchases.

Hopefully it will be an interesting stay.

Thanks, and stay safe,

Eddie O

[fatelk]

I'll put in a +1 on milling down the mold. I've done that with two Lee molds so far, to get the weight I wanted. Just take your time with setup and do it right, debur carefully, and it should work fine.

I milled the top off of a 6-cavity .45 TC mold that was dropping close to 250 grains. I calculated, measured and machined right and now they drop right at 230 grains and look great. An acquaintance let me use his milling machine. I sure wish I had my own.

[gray wolf]

Well now you tell us, so it's a whole different ball game.
The way your first post read it had me wondering. Glad you cleared it up for us.
Sounds like you will be fine, also sounds like you have a handle on what needs to be done.
Any-hoo welcome to the place that's not like any other place.

[Doby45]

Worst case scenario you ruin a perfectly good $20 mold. ;)

[Bret4207]

I've stayed with Lee because thats what I started with. Initally I avoided buying a lot of expensive Books or other items, not knowing if I would stay with the Hobby, two years in I have been picking up an item here and there, but no major purchases.[/COLOR]

Hopefully it will be an interesting stay.

Thanks, and stay safe,

Eddie O


Ed, again, I very strongly suggest at least finding the Pet Loads article on the 32 ACP or better, spend the $$$ and get the book. I'd also get some other sources other than the Lee book. I find it near useless myself, try any edition of the Lyman Cast Bullet handbooks. Much better/more useful information and no mumbo-jumbo "iffy" theories. I love Lee equipment but the book isn't his best product.

[gnoahhh]

Eddie O, are you in Maryland? If so, where? If you're close enough to me for a FTF I'll loan you my Lyman 2 cavity .32ACP mold (sorry I don't know the number, it's at home and I'm at work) and you can cast up a couple of thousand bullets with it and be set for a long time and not have to dick around with make shift stuff.

[Eddie O]

Ed, again, I very strongly suggest at least finding the Pet Loads article on the 32 ACP or better, spend the $$$ and get the book. I'd also get some other sources other than the Lee book. I find it near useless myself, try any edition of the Lyman Cast Bullet handbooks. Much better/more useful information and no mumbo-jumbo "iffy" theories. I love Lee equipment but the book isn't his best product.

Thanks Bret,

I read the Text portion of the Lee Manual cover to cover and even as a Green as Grass Novice I got the feeling the Lee Book was more a Lee, feel good, family History with a whole lot of Me, We, My Father Yada Yada Yada. Not to begrudge them that, the Family certainly built an empire and introduced thousands of people to the Hobby with a good (not great) affordable product. But I agree the Book is long on wind but short on substance.

Unfortunately, like many I never had a Mentor and this has been a learn as you go process, much of my information coming by way of the Internet. A major stumbling block being for every six experts on a subject there are another six, equally matched experts, disagreeing with them.

I almost went nuts on the "use of Lead in Polygonal Barrels", still don’t have a clear picture on that one but settled on Yes, if the Lead is of suitable Hardness, Alox or other good Lube is used and clean frequently or just avoid the controversy and go with FMJ.

Sometimes I think the EXPERTS just want to exasperate the rest of us who are not on their Level.

Primarily my Firearm Involvement over the years has been on the Collecting, Rebuilding and Shooting of Military Weapons, both Historic and Modern. I have a few Wall Hangers but when I buy a (I.E.) P38 I want a Weapon to Shoot, not collect dust.

Other than price savings I wanted to be able to develop my own Loads for Weapons like my Lee Enfield Ishapore 2A 7.62 mm NATO Manufactured in 1964. (Incorrectly identified as a .308 Winchester) the configuration of the .308 is absolutely identical except it's Chamber Pressures are pushing things a bit too much for my liking.

All of the 2A’s have been through at least three Conflicts, used by the Police Force and finally brush painted inside and out with thick black paint, sprayed with heavy varnish, used for Drill Weapons and finally packed in pounds of Cosmoline and finally sold to American Collectors over the past few years.

I spent a full Month scrubbing, searching for and replacing and refitting this Weapon down to the last screw. Why, it's the last true Lee Enfield ever made or will ever be made. An irrefutable part of a proud History and made to be shot, and shot it will be.
I have a good supply of 7.62 Nato but It's Berdan Primed, corrosive and I have no idea what abuse it's been put through that could have changed it's ballistic properties.

I've shot the Nato and other than being corrosive have no reason to believe it's anything but safe. However I would like to develop a Non Corrosive, Reloadable, "Reduced Pressure Round", dead accurate at 100 Yds.

As you have pointed out I am now at that place where I need to start expanding my knowledge base and joining this Site for me is a step in that direction.

Speaking about reducing pressure on the Nato Round when I first started out I was naive enough to believe all I had to do was reduce the amount of Powder. I had no idea that if using a slow burning Powder this can cause a secondary explosion in the Case severe enough to cause a kaboom.

Please excuse the lengthily responses. I'm as new as Cheap Wine around here and have been sneaking in some background information here and there to try to get to know who is who and put some of my Bio out there if anyone is interested.

Thanks, and Stay Safe,

Eddie O

[475BH]

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

The site above has some data for 71 gr. FMJ, they include W-231 powder.

[Bret4207]

Ed, find something like the RCBS 30-180FN, stick it in a 308 case ahead of 13.0 gr Red Dot and hit the range. If your barrel is even remotely clean of jacket and powder fouling you should be under 2" at 50 yds to start. Work on the fit a bit and it should be under 2 at 100.

[woody1]

Eddie O, If you'll PM me your e-mail address, I'll scan the data page from the Pet Loads article on the 32 ACP and send it to you. I'm pretty slow at this scanning stuff so I'll prob'ly not do the whole 6 pages of the article. Regards, Woody

[Eddie O]

Eddie O, are you in Maryland? If so, where? If you're close enough to me for a FTF I'll loan you my Lyman 2 cavity .32ACP mold (sorry I don't know the number, it's at home and I'm at work) and you can cast up a couple of thousand bullets with it and be set for a long time and not have to dick around with make shift stuff.

Thank you very much for thr kind offer but I'm in Aberdeen, not that far out of Pa. With the current cost of Gas I could damm near buy the Lyman Factory for the cost of the drive LOL.
Thank you, it was a kind offer.

Eddie O

[Jim]

Eddie,
You made a HUGE mistake telling us that you collect and shoot military rifles.:holysheep
You're done for, now, I'm afraid!:(
Lest you do not know, there is no known cure for the affliction of MRC(military rifle collector) syndrome.

Glad to have you aboard, Sir![smilie=s:

[brucew]

I use the Lee 311-93 in my 1907 savage acp with 1.4 grs of Bullseye and it shoots great. Slug your barrel though, mine is .308

[Eddie O]

I use the Lee 311-93 in my 1907 savage acp with 1.4 grs of Bullseye and it shoots great. Slug your barrel though, mine is .308

:2_high5: I am absolutely delighted to see American Ingenuity is alive and well. I wrote LEE about Milling down their .32 Long Mold to accommodate a .32 acp not really expecting and answer.

To my delight not only did LEE respond immediately they agreed with the Milling of their Mold and even offered a suggestion how to do it. Although they missed a bit on threading the Sprue Screw being threaded deeper into the Mold. I have some Linotype around 15+ I think I'll fill the cavity's with when Milling.

Following is LEE's response,

Eddie O

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Re: Lee Precision: User filled in Contact Us form!
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Mr. Eddie O,

Thank you for considering Lee Precision. You are correct in that we don't have a bullet mold designed for the 32 ACP in our current line up. I have made a suitable mold out of the 311-93-1R by milling off the bottom driving band and lube groove, but this requires that the sprue pivot screw be shortened as well, and there is less "meat" for the screw threads so it could compromise the sprue pivot - it wouldn't survive rough handling.
The trick is to fill the mold before you mill it off. This prevents a burr from getting turned down into the mold cavity by the flycutting tool.

Patrick
Tech Service
Lee Precision, Inc.
4275 Hwy. U
Hartford, WI 53027
262-673-3075

On 4/26/2011 8:09 AM, Lee Precision wrote:

Customer info:
________________________________________
Customer:
Address:
Address:
City: Aberdeen
State: Maryland
Country: United States
Zip/Postal code: 21001

Phone:
Email Address:
Web site:
Subject: Can't find .32 Ca. acp Mold
Message:
________________________________________
VZOR 50's (CZ 50) are being imported by Century "CIA" by the thousands. They are in .32 acp. I almost exclusively buy Lee Molds but I cannot find a .32 acp in Lee's Lineup. The closest listed is the .32 Long which is approx 1/8" longer and 20 Grains heavier. I had considered milling off the necessary length from the .32 Long but was advised to contact Lee first, Eddie O Aberdeen, Maryland
________________________________________
Lee Precision
Phone: 262-673-3075
Fax: 262-673-9273
URL: www.leeprecision.com (http://www.leeprecision.com)

ANY BETS LEE ADDS A .32acp TO IT'S LINEUP? :takinWiz:

[Doby45]

Awesome idea about filling the mold prior to cutting. I would not have thought of that and it makes perfect sense.

[Bret4207]

My gosh! That's some response from Pat at Lee. Good for him!

[dragonrider]

Before you mill it off cast some boolits and leave the last ones in it, this will add support for the cavities.

[Dale53]

Thanks for sharing the information from Pat at Lee. That is as "grown up" response as is possible to get. I have had excellent results from calling Lee from time to time. I have NEVER got a bad response.

Lee gets a lot of negative comments but most are undeserved. Their Classic Cast Turret is one of the finest loading presses on the planet. I have several other presses including TWO Dillon 550B's but I also have the Lee Classic Cast Turret so I am speaking of personal experience. They have produced and continue to produce some of the most innovative loading tools available. They have produced a clinker or two but no one bats 100% (not even with steroids:groner:).

Dale53

[deltaenterprizes]

Awesome idea about filling the mold prior to cutting. I would not have thought of that and it makes perfect sense.

That is the way I do it , it also gives you a boolit to check the weight.

[Echo]

Wow. Is this thread GREAT, or What?

[Eddie O]

Wow. Is this thread GREAT, or What?

Sir, My Father was a Tail Gunner on a B-17 stationed in North Africa during WWII, It is my pleasure to meet any of our gallant Retired members of the U.S.A.F. Sir I salute you and it is a pleasure to make your acquaintance.

Stay Safe,
Eddie O

PS My Father really knew how to throw some Lead :2gunsfiring_v1:

In April 1934, the U.S. Army Air Corps requested bids for a multiengine bomber that could carry a bomb load of 2,000 pounds (907 kilograms) for at least 1,020 miles (1,642 kilometers) at a speed of 200 miles per hour (322 kilometers per hour). Boeing proposed the four-engine Model 299, with its all-metal construction and a bomb bay that could hold 4,800 pounds (2,177 kilograms) of bombs. It was heavily armed with a gun turret in the nose and three rounded windows (blisters) for gunners on the sides and bottom of the plane. When it rolled out on July 28, 1935, a Seattle Times reporter nicknamed it the "Flying Fortress" because of its heavy armament.

[Doble Troble]

I use that mold for 32 ACP out of a Browning 1910 - unmodified, unsized and Alox lubed. If memory serves, BUT DON"T TRUST IT - my notes aren't here - I used 2.1 gr Unique. It's an amazingly accurate load from this old Nazi/slave-Belgian pistol.

[Longwood]

Sir, My Father was a Tail Gunner on a B-17 stationed in North Africa during WWII, It is my pleasure to meet any of our gallant Retired members of the U.S.A.F. Sir I salute you and it is a pleasure to make your acquaintance.

Stay Safe,
Eddie O

PS My Father really knew how to throw some Lead :2gunsfiring_v1:

In April 1934, the U.S. Army Air Corps requested bids for a multiengine bomber that could carry a bomb load of 2,000 pounds (907 kilograms) for at least 1,020 miles (1,642 kilometers) at a speed of 200 miles per hour (322 kilometers per hour). Boeing proposed the four-engine Model 299, with its all-metal construction and a bomb bay that could hold 4,800 pounds (2,177 kilograms) of bombs. It was heavily armed with a gun turret in the nose and three rounded windows (blisters) for gunners on the sides and bottom of the plane. When it rolled out on July 28, 1935, a Seattle Times reporter nicknamed it the "Flying Fortress" because of its heavy armament.
At peak production, during the war, Boeing was building 18 of those planes a day.

[Eddie O]

:cbpour:
Thanks to all who responded to this Thread for altering a Boolit configuration to fit the specification I want. Hell even the LEE Engineering Corporation chimed in, which really surprised me.
Bottom Line, I can do it and it should work.

Got a lot of good information, meet some nice knowledgeable folks and hopefully made some new friends :drinks:. Once I am finished Milling the Lee Mold, which will take a while I will Post a new Thread, most likely "Milling a LEE Mold For .32 Cal Long, To .32 ACP"


I think it only fair I Post the picture of the Pistol that started me on this quest. It is in excellent condition, the Hammer and Firing Pin show no mark from being hit, This is one case where the $10 Hand Picked really paid off.

Stay Safe,
Eddie O