Hensley and Gibbs sprue plate

[3006guns]

I have a H&G #86 three cavity mold, originally designed for the 30-30 Winchester and it drops a nice 170 gr. gas check boolit at .315. I'm using it to develop a load for my Japanese type 99 with a .314 groove diameter, using a linotype alloy so everything is a little on the "hard side".

My problem is not the boolits, it's the sprue plate. I'm not sure if H&G designed it with the pouring groove connecting all three cavities or if someone milled it out to suit their own idea, but it is a royal pain to use with my Saeco bottom pour pot. I've tried everything I can think of but it simply will not fill out all three cavities reliably. If I hold one mold opening tight to the pour spout it just splashes everywhere, one good boolit and two rejects. If I hold the mold about 1/2" below the spout and shoot for hitting the holes one at a time it becomes a contest of will between me and the spash fairy. Just trickling the alloy into the trough results in three boolits with rounded bases...bad fill out.

I have another H&G three cavity with no connecting trough and it works beautifully, a joy to use. So, my question is: is it possible to find another sprue plate or will I have to make one? I have the tools but it sure would be easier just to find one!

[Texasflyboy]

I have another H&G three cavity with no connecting trough and it works beautifully, a joy to use. So, my question is: is it possible to find another sprue plate or will I have to make one? I have the tools but it sure would be easier just to find one!

The problem is not the mould or the sprue plate trough. The problem is the way you are using this particular mould.


You have two choices to solve the problem, pick whichever one works best for you:

1. You need to increase the flow of molten metal from your pot. Those moulds were made to be filled quickly by using either ladle pouring or a bottom pour pot. You might want to consider opening the orifice on the pot to increase the flow rate.

2. Use a ladle with a generous pour hole to get the lead inside the mould faster.

I have had the exact same problem as you with my two and three cavity rifle moulds. The cure every time was increasing the flow rate of the lead into the mould.

Tom in Va.

[3006guns]

Thank you Tom.......I thought I had a pretty fair flow rate, as the excess metal splashed no matter what position or technique I used (weight from nearly full pot). However a ladle might be a quick and easy fix, as I can change the rate to my liking rather than have a mechanical linkage....plus I'll be able to see the spout a little easier!:drinks:

[runfiverun]

slow down your fill.
tilt the mold slightly and let it run from one hole to the other as you move it under the spout.
i use that technique for my 4 cavities with my 40 lb magma pot with two spouts.it has an adjustment screw and stop.
i also slowed down my lee by blocking the lift handle with a piece of wire.
that also helps the fill out by letting the cav's vent from the top.
i change the angle of the fill slightly as i pour.

[KCSO]

In the old H and G 10 cavity moulds we pooured from a big dipper and ran the mould real hot.. I would set the mould on the rim of the pot and when the lead was melted I would take it off for about a minute and then start casting, then it would fill at least 9 out of ten. The bullets were frosted but well filled. If you want to pout one at a time I would guess any machinest worth his salt could whip up another sprue plate.

[deltaenterprizes]

I can make one if you decide to go that route. PM sent.