Hmm, they're getting wider...

[armoredman]

I noticed a few of my Lee TL 356-124-2R have started squeaking out of the .356 sizer minus the lube rings, i.e., smooth sided cylinders except for some teeny grooves here and there. What should I look for on the mould that's making it drop so wide? Also thinking of getting a different 9mm round nose mould, any relatively inexpensive suggestions that will work with Lee Liquid Alox?
Thanks for any replies.

[selmerfan]

Is there any lead stuck on one of the mould block faces, something holding the blocks open?

[mooman76]

I have noticed this sometimes especially when doing the longer sessions. Sometimes it is a good thing but not when you get inconsistant boolits or loose your lube grooves. It is also usually little tiny bits of lead get in places keeping it from closing tight or the alignment could get off a little as the mould get hotter. Look the mould over good and if you don't find anything then it's probably the latter. Before you drop lead in the mould make sure it is closing good. You should be able to cure this by setting your mould on a flat surface when closing or taping the mould when closed to jar it a little and help it align. I tap mine. I tap the sprue open so I just tap it again when closed.

[Bret4207]

Good advice above. I don't know how the rest of the clan is here, but I can't see squat anymore. So when something like this crops up I have to get the "helpers" out and take a good look at the blocks. Usually I find a tiny little bit of alloy on the face or in an alignment hole. Easy to remove, problem solved.

[WHITETAIL]

Yes, get a pop stick and use that
to remove anything you find stuck
to the face of the mould.:redneck:

[Pepe Ray]

IF your Lee is a 6 hole'
DON"T grasp the sprue plate handle while pouring.
Pepe Ray

[runfiverun]

yep keep yer thumb off the sprue cutter knob.

[geargnasher]

I use a boolit nose like an eraser on a cool mould to remove any stuck lead foil.

During a casting session, a sharpened carpenter's pencil works, as does one half of a wood-and-wire clothes pin.

Gear

[justingrosche]

Dave if it is a 2 cav. mold the first thing I would look at are the phoney ass alignment pins. Seems they are the first thing to get gunked up. Are you getting a significant parting line on the nose of the Boolit? That would be a tell tale sign.
Justin

[armoredman]

AYep, there's a line on some of them. What do I clean the pins with?

[captaint]

If I had to bet money, I'd go with "keep your hands off the sprue cutter handle" group. I've done this myself, often... And, if you're sizing, why have a TL mold anyway?? enjoy Mike

[justingrosche]

Dave,
First try the less aggressive means such as a carb cleaner and a tooth brush. If that doesn't get it, OO steel wool. Then follow the edges of the pin with a pick to get whats left behind.
Justin

[Longwood]

AYep, there's a line on some of them. What do I clean the pins with?
I use bamboo skewers sold at grocery stores. They are cheap and have a very sharp point.

[Charlie Two Tracks]

I hold my mold up to a strong light and look into the cavity. If you see a bunch of light, you have a problem. On one of my molds, I had a little lead piece of down inside the hole the alignment pit fits in. Good luck. You will get it.

[mpmarty]

I'm immune to this type of problem as I never size a cast boolit.

[Hanzerik]

IF your Lee is a 6 hole'
DON"T grasp the sprue plate handle while pouring.
Pepe Ray

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you...

Was having a size issue also with my Ranch Dog 265-432 mold. Thought the mold was out of round. But I just cast some bullets a little while ago and remembered I had seen your post and did not squeeze the spruce plate handle. And go figure...that was my size issue. I was squeezing the heck out of all three handles.

[Charlie Two Tracks]

If you have a Lee hardness tester, you can use the microscope to look at your mold blocks. You won't believe all the stuff you can see. You will be able to REALLY tell if any of your vent lines are plugged up and for sure, see lead.

[armoredman]

Thanks, I will be 'scoping out the vent lines before I cast again. Captaint, I use the TL mold because it's all I have. :) I don't have any other 9mm molds. If you have one you don't use anymore and wanna give away I'll be happy to try it!
I size these becuse normally the mold drops them at .360, so I size them to .356 for 9mm and .358 for 38 Special. They Smith Model 10-8 likes them quite a bit.
It's a two hold mold, so no, I don't touch the sprue plate handle. I don't do that with the NOE 5 cavity, either.
I don't have a spare toothbrush, so I will look for a clothespin or other small wooden item and scrub the vent lines well.
Thanks!

Special thanks to mpmarty for the brilliant commentary. :kidding:

[armoredman]

Well, I scrubbed the vent lines with a boolit, and the percentage of wide onesdropped considerably. I also think the mold may be wearing out, if possible, see a couple of small cracks near one corner, and I don't remember dropping it anywhere.
Dang. Anyone got a 9mm mold they're not using, cheap?

[cabezaverde]

Next time you get take out Chinese, grab a set of chopsticks. Work great for this type of mold work. Just don't try to eat with them.

[Echo]

I size these becuse normally the mold drops them at .360, so I size them to .356 for 9mm and .358 for 38 Special.

Have you tried using the .358's in the 9mm? If they chamber, shoot 'em! Nine's have a rep for various groove diameters.

[armoredman]

Sorry, the "new economy" dictates no more take out, Chinese or otherwise...ever.

[noylj]

MPMarty:
+1
Size only if forced to. Rather adjust alloy then size bullets.