bluing a Lyman mold

[singleshotbuff]

Gentlemen,

I have an older Lyman mold that has lost some of the original finish inside the cavities. I was wondering if I could touch it up with cold blue in order to give a LITTLE (very little) corrosion resistence while it is stored. I oil my molds heavily anyway, but thought this might be a little added protection.

I'm just wondering if the cold blue would come off when the mold is hot, or will effect casting in anyway.

Guys who make your own molds, how do you, or do you finish them?

Thanks

SSB

[Timberlake]

My initial response was "why would anybody want to build a Lyman mold?" Then I read a little farther.

No, I don't think I'd even blue one. The ones I have, that work, I'll not tempt the hand of fate on. I love that red/brown patina and I never oil one because they don't squeak. They just sit in the safe and never misbehave.

TL

[Topper]

SSB,
If you want to blue, I recommend Mark Lee's Express Blue.
It's easy to use and won't wear of like cold blue solutions do.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=8795&title=EXPRESS+BLUE+%231+EXPRESS+BROWN+%232

[Bent Ramrod]

Don't some of the touch-up blues have selenium compounds in them? I would recommend avoiding such; selenium fumes are supposed to be very toxic. I generally blue my molds by casting fairly hot for two or three sessions. The first session will generally get the inside a good yellow color, the next one a purple, and this will at least partially change to blue by the end of the third.

[Phil]

I never put anything but molten lead alloy in my molds. Never oil them either. I store them in surplus 50 cal ammo cans (make sure the seals are in good shape) and have never had one rust even a tiny bit. Been doing it this way since the sixties and the molds all seem to start casting good bullets very quickly.

Cheers,

Phil

[DOUBLEJK]

You can simply heat blue a lyman mold...take off the sprue plate as it will warp at high temps....set the blocks seperated not touching on your kitchen range on high and watch them till they start to turn color....shut off the burner and let them cool and they will be a nice blue...:-D

[Bret4207]

If they're casting good I wouldn't mess with them. I use ammo boxes and desicant packs. No oil to clean off and no rust.

[Hunter]

Though I do not have the experience as others here I do have some old Lyman molds that have "wear" so to speak. I do keep a light coat of CLP on them and clean them well before and after casting. So far they show no signs of rust.

[HORNET]

FWIW,
I've cold blued a few Lyman molds after lapping. Seems like it might even help fillout a little, but not much. It seems to last fairly well. I believe I used some 44/40 that I've had for ages.[smilie=1:
One of my easiest casting molds is an old Ideal that appears to have spent some time in an industrial black oxide tank. It pours good boolits from about the second cast until they frost so bad that they won't fill out.:roll:

[SharpsShooter]

I'm not convinced 44/40 would retard corrosion enough to make it worth the trouble. I store all my iron moulds with a light coat of oil and simply scrub them with Dawn dishwashing liquid and boiling water prior to use. Float them on top of the alloy to pre heat and they cast keepers by the third fill usually.

SS