Talked me into it going to start casting boolits.

[tayous1]

After asking questions and looking at prices I'm going to jump into the casting game. Now I'm just looking for places that have the best deal on the items I will need to start with. I know I'm going to need a melter and some molds. I'm looking at Lee to start with right now and will be casting 45acp my pistol likes the 230gr RN but question I have should I start off with the 230gr or should I go with 228 gr or 200 gr? These are only going to be used as range rounds. I ask because I have read a lot about how some lead after casting might weigh more or less then it should. I'm looking at the 6 Cavity bullet mold right now.

I'm going to pick up a sizing die also and some type of lead dipper. Any other tools I should look at? Any advice on the tools also? Before I forget who should I order lead from? Thanks for the help and another hobby to feed and other hobby that feed my shooting addiction.

[btroj]

I like the 200 swc but mostly because it is easier on my lead supply. I also would suggest a 2 cav to start. Easier to learn on and get the basics down.
Lead is where you find it. Range scrap, wheel weights, scrap yard, where ever you find it is good.
Try to find a guy near you who casts so they can show you how it is done. This is the best way to learn.
Good luck

[GRUMPA]

Well quote #2 summed it up rather nicely, the only thing I could add to that would be to use a dipper that bottom pours. They cost a tad more but are worth it in the end.

[snuffy]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=645810 $64.99

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=789762 $19.49

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=776747 $19.49

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=116429 $17.29

121.26
This is the basic cost for a set-up that would get you ready to cast for a 45 auto. melt the lead, pour the bullet, lube it by tumbling, then run it through the sizer. Ready to load. And YES you can use the tumble lube for conventional lube groove bullets!

The Lee Pro 4 20 Lb Furnace is the best one they make, it has the ability to function as a bottom pour, and enough room to allow you to use a ladle if you want to try that method.

The above prices would be the same no matter which handgun caliber(S) you may have. The same would go for rifle, the 2 cav lee molds all cost about the same money. Occasionally midway has a sale that will save a couple bucks off a mold, or other stuff.

I would certainly suggest you start with a simple handgun bullet without a gas check. Rifle bullets are a step up in skill level requirements, and paper patching is another higher skill level.

[462]

Welcome,

1. Don't worry about the boolit's weight, as long as it is designed for the .45 ACP. That said, start with a round nose design as it will not give you the seating, and feeding and functioning fits that are all too common with semi-wadcutters. (I understand that Lee's 1R design can be troublesome, but the 2R isn't. However, I've no experience with either of those moulds.)

2. Start with a two-cavity mould. You have much to learn and quality before quantity is key.

3. Buy at least one volume of Lyman's Reloading Handbooks, one of their four editions of Cast Bullet Handbook, and one more reloading manual. Read them at least twice.

4. Read the stickies and archive (link toward the bottom of the page).

5. Don't rush, take your time learning and understanding the entire reloading and casting processes.

6. Last but not least, read, read, read, and enjoy your new-found hobby.

[mdi]

Welcome,

1. Don't worry about the boolit's weight, as long as it is designed for the .45 ACP. That said, start with a round nose design as it will not give you the seating, and feeding and functioning fits that are all too common with semi-wadcutters. (I understand that Lee's 1R design can be troublesome, but the 2R isn't. However, I've no experience with either of those moulds.)

2. Start with a two-cavity mould. You have much to learn and quality before quantity is key.

3. Buy at least one volume of Lyman's Reloading Handbooks, one of their four editions of Cast Bullet Handbook, and one more reloading manual. Read them at least twice.

4. Read the stickies and archive (link toward the bottom of the page).

5. Don't rush, take your time learning and understanding the entire reloading and casting processes.

6. Last but not least, read, read, read, and enjoy your new-found hobby.

WOW! My thoughts exactly...

[Firebricker]

tayous, As far as buying lead there's usually some in the swapping & selling section. There are also people in vendor sponsor section that sell lead all the time. And the link to Roto Metals at the top of page. The only other thing I would get would be some bullplate sprue lube from Bullshop. I think you are going to enjoy casting its an addictive hobby that definitely will expand your shooting time. FB

[tayous1]

Thanks for the help. When looking at lead what should I buy? I see so many types.

[Doby45]

Muddy Creek Sam, just buy his ingots and you are good to go.. NO smelting or smelting costs to start with, just drop the ingots in your pot and get to casting.

[captaint]

I got some lead from Muddy Creek Sam last year. Great looking stuff. Get some.. Also, do yourself a favor and get a ten buck hotplate from china mart or somewhere. Saves lots of headaches, getting the molds heated up prior to use. You're starting out just like most of us. You're gonna get hooked, though. enjoy Mike

[tayous1]

I got some lead from Muddy Creek Sam last year. Great looking stuff. Get some.. Also, do yourself a favor and get a ten buck hotplate from china mart or somewhere. Saves lots of headaches, getting the molds heated up prior to use. You're starting out just like most of us. You're gonna get hooked, though. enjoy Mike

My local dollar store has ovens the small type for $7 would that be worth buying to place the molds in before I add the lead?

[songdog53]

Hot plate will save a lot of bad talking when mold isn't hot enough when start or when reloading your lead pot. I preheat all my molds and almost my first boolits are as good as 100th. Sometimes they aren't but beauty of casting you can always hide any mistakes back in lead pot. Take it slow and be safe and enjoy your new addiction.

[Bret4207]

All you need is a heat source, ladle, pot and mould to start. And some alloy. Buying some decent alloy from Sam or someone would be the easiest way to go, but wheel weights and a little solder have been the standard for decades. Don't start with a 6 banger, get a 1 or 2 cavity. And don't feel you need to go with a bottom pour pot. ladles are fine.

The main thing you need to do is to be patient, remember that the MOULD needs to be hot and that's different than your pot heat. You control MOULD HEAT by your casting pace or tempo- the faster you cast, the hotter the mould gets and stays. THe more time you spend standing there with an empty mould looking at the boolits or stirring the pot or picking your nose the more the mould cools down which leads to poor fillout, wrinkles, incomplete boolits, etc.

[onesonek]

I can't add to what advice you have received,,,but.
I have got lead from Sam here as well,,,,good stuff it is. I will also make mention another lead source here is TheCaptain. Both are good people and fairly priced.

[tayous1]

I found a $7 little oven at my dollar store would that be a good thing to warm the molds in before I cast?

[theperfessor]

I'm assuming when you say oven you are referring to a toaster oven of some sort. Not so good, it will heat the handles along with the mold. Get a hotplate instead. I put a piece of 1/4" scrap aluminum plate on top of my hotplate to help even out the heat and then set mold on top of that. Other folks here put an old circular saw blade or similar for the same reason.

I personally do not like to dip my molds into the melt to preheat them because I sometimes end up with little lead particles between the faces. Others don't seem to have that problem so it's something you'll have to decide on.

By the way, if you get a Lee mold, don't follow the instructions about using bullet lube as mold lube, you'll end up with a baked on mess. Get some BullPlate sprue lube from the Bullshop, it's the best mold lube available on the market. I have no connection to them other than being a satisfied user. They're good folks to deal with.