.32 H&R leading issues

[drklynoon]

I have a Ruger .32 H&R single six. The CYlinder throat measures .3115 The barrel slugs at .311. Here's a brief history, I was shooting a LEE 100 gr round nose # 311-100-2r This bullet dropped around .313. I was using WW alloy that was water dropped. I was sizing to .314 and using Lyman ALLOX lube. My load is 3.8 gr. Unique. The gun was accurate for about 5 rounds and would then open way up. The first inch of the bore was leading down the left side. I have now changed bullets to the lyman #313249. This is an 85 gr round nose. I am still waterdropping WW's the bullets drops at .312 I am now sizing with a .312 sizer. I am now using Lyman super Moly lube. The load is still 3.8 gr Unique. The accuracy never dropped off with the new bullet. I did however seem to have a thin lead coating around the entire first inch of the bore. It almost looked as though it was painted grey. Neither times have the cylinder throats leaded. I have also checked on inadvertant bullet sizing and this is not the case. I am kinda stumped about were to go from here. This last load I only shot 25 through her so the leading could possibly go away or get worst with a new box. I am against changing my alloy dur to supply problems. Any help would be awesome. Thanks

[44man]

I think the first boolit was too large and mixed with medium working lubes might be the problem.
.312" is better but again, I never had good luck with the moly lube either. I would try a better lube and a lot of the fellas here sell good stuff.
I have often wondered if a boolit that is too clean will cause a problem but never tested it and don't feel like it. Boolits from a lube sizer are clean, down to bare lead except for the groove.
I am sloppy and rub Felix lube into the grooves with my fingers and after going through a Lee push through, they have a thin film of lube all over. They look like a TL boolit but I hate Alox. LLA always leads my bores. Moly never seemed to help anything either.
Now I have made many accuracy tests between lubes and the difference is something you need to see for yourself with your gun.
Leading at the cone can be because of a tight spot at the frame or your boolit is skidding the rifling too much. It gets a real kick in the butt with the fast powders needed in the little case. Being a PB, there is no check to arrest skid.
I would be inclined to trying a harder alloy or a slower powder, maybe HS-6.

[Larry Gibson]

Don't water drop the bullets, no need for that hard of a bullet with the mild Unique load you are using. Suggest 3.2 gr Bullseye with either of those lighter bullets. I've shot lots of .32 H&Rs in numerous revolvers (H&R, S&W and Ruger and also a Contender barrel) and never got leading with softer bullets and a good alox lube, I prefer Javelian or Lar's 2500+. Harder bullets and hard wax lubes always gets some leading. Your Lyman Alox or moly lube should be ok, bullets just to hard. One other thing to do is perhaps add 2% tin to your alloy as you may have a high antimony and too low a tin content. Even then I suggest air cooling the bullets and not water dropping them.

Larry Gibson

[drklynoon]

I'll try air cooling them. I also got some trail boss and titegroup I'd like to find load information on for the .32. Larry I'd love to add some tin but finances and availability has really limited my tin situation. I have been pewter hunting but to no success so I'm trying hard to not have to alloy.

[MT Gianni]

I am getting no leading in my single six with air cooled and 4.0-4.3 gr Unique. I use FWFL as a lube.

[Larry Gibson]

I'll try air cooling them. I also got some trail boss and titegroup I'd like to find load information on for the .32. Larry I'd love to add some tin but finances and availability has really limited my tin situation. I have been pewter hunting but to no success so I'm trying hard to not have to alloy.

I understand 'finances". See if you can scrounge up some 50/50 bar solder froma plumber. It will be 50% tin.

Larry Gibson

[rond]

2.5 gr. Titegroup and a 90 gr. SWC works for me as a plinking load.

[drklynoon]

I've tried the bar solder method as well. Tin is worst then gold around here lol. I got some tightgroup and I'm gonna give that a try. I'm also gonna try air cooling. I hate making two changes at once cause you don't know what fixed it but I've been wanting to change powders for a while now.

[drklynoon]

Oh yeah and what is FWFL lube?

[Three44s]

Titegroup is alright but not the best for a leading problem ........

I like Unique and best of all where it works ......... HS-6!

I also like air cooled with tin added where it works.

Three 44s

[MT Gianni]

Oh yeah and what is FWFL lube?

Felix's World Famous Lube http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=543

[Mk42gunner]

My .32 H&R SSM measures a little larger than yours, but it loves an air cooled wheel weight 120 gr sized to .313" with FWFL and a healthy dose of LILGUN.

If you decide to make some FWFL; buy your ivory soap early, open it up and let the bar dry thouroughly, then scrape it with a knife blade instead of grating. The powder that comes off the bar will disolve/ melt easier.

Robert

[2 dogs]

drklynoon, if your bullet was initially dropping .313", how could you SIZE it up to .314"? What tool are you using to arrive at these measurements? I believe you have restriction at your barrel threads. The cure can be found here as well as information on how to best measure your sixgun.

http://www.gunblast.com/FerminGarza-Firelapping.htm

[rststeve]

I also have a leading problem in my Ruger 32 H&R. I have a stainless gun and the barrel looks as though it was cut with a coal chisel. I have studied the problem with these guns all over the net. I belive fire lapping is the answer to my problem. Check it out there is a lot of information on these guns and leading. For a revolver that had no popularity when it was unvailed they are sure popular now. Just saw the new John Wayne special in 32 mag today offered by Ruger NICE. Good luck

[2 dogs]

rststeve, BEWARE, that Ruger stainless is HARD!!! One of the guys sent me a note saying he hadda firelap his stainless Ruger some 300 rounds..... I have 202 firelap rounds thru a FA97 and while I still have .001 restriction the leading quit and the little gun shoots really good.

Depending on the amount of restriction, I would consider starting with a more coarse grit. Otherwise you might be firelapping for a long time!

[drklynoon]

I'm not too sure about a tight spot. WHen I slugged it there wasn't a tight spot or anything. I could recheck it after I go to the range this weekend. I'm surprised at the accuracy I was getting with jacketed if the barrel has a tight spot.

2 Dogs, I wasn't sizing the bullet up I was using a .314 sizing die. The bullet wasn't completely round so it did make contact with the sizer in spots. Now my bullets drop about .312 and they are going through a .312 sizer the first two bands get a little sizing but the rear driving band hardly gets touched. I measured it out and it comes really close to being .312 all the way after sizing.

[2 dogs]

The reason is that often a barrel that display less than prime dimensions will shoot pretty dang well. I have a FA97 45 colt that has .001 restriction under the front sight that tears a ragged hole at 25 yards. That said, I wonder what it could do if the barrel was right? A jacketed bullet is quite forgiving of high spots and such in the barrel.

[olafhardt]

That load may not be so lite. I leader up my 32 s&w Colt police positive turtle, lizard, &armodiller killer 6in with the hdy lswc and 3.2 grains of Unique. The crony said 1135fps. :bigsmyl2:[smilie=s: