Carbon crud ring

[btroj]

Anyone got an effective way to eliminate the ring or carbon and crud that develops at the end of a 38 special case when fired in a 357 revolver?
I have trident numerous solvents with soaking, an ultrasonic cleaner with a carbon cutting cleaner, a brush with and without chore boy wrapped around it.

I have had some results using an expanded 357 cases tapped into the chamber to physically remove much of the ring. This still leaves some behind.

This is a pain to remove. I am open to almost anything.

Brad

[GP100man]

Flitz & a brass 40 caliber brush after the flared case will do the trick !!

On a C/D

[454PB]

This is the reason I seldom shoot the shorter cartridges in magnums, if enough are fired, it actually starts to erode the area just forwards of the shorter case.

[btroj]

I have not tried Flitz. And your handle is very appropriate as it is my 4 inch SS GP100!

I have so much 38 brass and little 357 so I don't want to go with 357 brass only.

[Alby]

I soak it with charcoal starter and let it sit for a while. Then I use a brass bore brush that has been attached to a 6" section of cleaning rod. The rod goes into a cordless drill and used at a slow to moderate speed. Charcoal starter is also used to disolve cosmoline.

[btroj]

I wish I had a lathe. I would think a brass tool the size of a fired case for this gun with some teeth cut in the end would work wonders on this stuff.
I use my drill with the brush all the time. It seems to be tough to find a solvent that can cut this stuff.

[EDK]

Try KANO KROIL....an industrial grade penetrating oil....and d*** good gun cleaner....and mold release (no personal experience on that.)

Run a brass brush of some sort through, then a patch with plenty of KROIL and let it sit a few minutes. Then alternate brushing and patches. If KROIL won't do the job, I'd recommend one of the cylinder "ball hones" from BROWNELLS.

I usually shoot 24 rounds each in two or three VAQUEROS daily. Afterwards, they get the barrel inspected for leading and the chambers in the cylinder cleaned with an oversize nylon brush from the breech end and a brass brush in the chamber throats.

I have a couple thousand nickle plated 38 Specials and d*** near that many nickle plated 44 Specials in storage because the carbon ring can be a PITA. I do not buy Special brass anymore.

:Fire::castmine::redneck:

[GP100man]

I wish I had a lathe. I would think a brass tool the size of a fired case for this gun with some teeth cut in the end would work wonders on this stuff.
I use my drill with the brush all the time. It seems to be tough to find a solvent that can cut this stuff.


Actually I`ve notched the mouth of a case & turn it by hand via a screw driver slot cut in the head , but ya still have to keep flarin it a bit .

But I`ve accumilated enuff 357 brass so I don`t use 38 anymore .

[btroj]

How did the notched case work? That sounds about exactly like what I was thinking. Sort of a hand turned brass reamer.
I have about 3000 special cases and only a few hundred mag cases, hence the issue. I also like the specials because I always know they are lighter loads. I take too many new shooters out to take a chance on which rounds they are.

[pdawg_shooter]

GM dealers used to sell a upper cylinder cleaner for engines that worked real good for this purpose.

[nicholst55]

Clymer makes what they call a 'De-Lead Reamer' for just this purpose. I'd think I really good carbon cutter would do the job, especially if you let the cylinder soak in it for a while.

[btroj]

That would work well, I just need to find some 357 max cases! I wonder if a similar cases, like even a 223 , could be cut down a bit, expanded, and used in a similar role?
I think I have an afternoon project now. Maybe cut some teeth in it and thread the other end co I can spin it in a drill?

Brad

[eveready]

A Lewis lead remover works well.

[looseprojectile]

What powder and lube are you using.
For over fifty years I have shot hot 38 special ammo in any of my .357s and have not noticed any build up that Hoppes and a patch wouldn't take out pronto.
If you don't have J&B bore cleaner you are missing some of lifes greatest stuff.

Life is good

[btroj]

I have not tried the JB yet. I have been using Carnuba red and am switching over to MML. Much of the powder lately has been HP38.
I have gotten ALOT of it out but it bugs me none the less. I plan to use the 40 brush with JB combo. That will make short work of it I am sure.

[looseprojectile]

I use a short section of cleaning rod with a bore brush which I wrap a patch around so that it is a tight fit. The directions say to use a solvent or oil on the patch. I don't do that. I apply the bore paste sparingly to a dry patch and run it in a variable speed drill motor until it doesn't cut anymore. One patch done this way will clean all the chambers. Works in rifles too.
I gave some J&B to a friend that was having a problem with .22LR cases not wanting to extract from his S&W model 17. Had to beat them out. He fixed it so that the cases nearly fall out by themselves now. His statement was, I will never be without J&B ever again.
It strikes me as odd how so many people that should know better are shooting guns that are constipated.

Brownells sells it.

Life is good

[Bass Ackward]

That ain't just carbon, it's lead.

Mine is soaking as this is typed with that great disolver and lead remover, Lee Liquid Alox. If you got the time.

[cowboy]

Howdy
I use the Clymer Lead removal reamer= use lots of .38 special in my .357 magnum Ruger single actions- works fine! Been doing so for more than 12 years, so please don't tell me about how destructive it is. Woks great in my .357 mag S&Ws when they need a touch up, too. They also make such in .45 Colt = recently started loading .45 Schofield brass ( in the manner of using 38 special brass in 357 mag chambers ) , the reamer does a fine job there, too. ( had formerly used it to de-crud the .45 Colt chambers after shooting- lots of carbon and crud just doesn't brush out ). Those chambers are fine, too, thank you.
Just this man's experience.

[buck1]

That ain't just carbon, it's lead.

Mine is soaking as this is typed with that great disolver and lead remover, Lee Liquid Alox. If you got the time.

Bass ol buddy you lost me. You are useing Lee liquid Alox to remove lead??:holysheep
This is a new thing for me please explaine a bit.....Buck

[btroj]

I hear you Buck. I could see using some LLA on a brush in the chambers if it would remove this stuff but soaking it? The whole cylinder? That's ALOT of LLA and it's got to be a mess to remove all that stuff after the soak. Yuck.

Please tell us more Bass. You have at least two of us very intrigued. We want more.

Brad

[btroj]

I hear you Buck. I could see using some LLA on a brush in the chambers if it would remove this stuff but soaking it? The whole cylinder? That's ALOT of LLA and it's got to be a mess to remove all that stuff after the soak. Yuck.

Please tell us more Bass. You have at least two of us very intrigued. We want more.

Brad

[Bass Ackward]

Soak the whole cylinder ......................................... :groner:

I paint with a Q-Tip in .... liberal quantities (now pay attention class) WHERE IT IS NEEDED and let it soak. Just so it's covered with a little extra to keep it from drying right away. Change it every couple a days.

Then it's easily removed with a patch for the next weekend.

I suppose that it can be mixed with Hoppes or Kroil and be even faster. But I'd have to try that as the benefit is it clinging 360 degrees.

LLA is a good bore cleaner that is actually a prepper too. It is also a good storage protectant. The rumor is some folks actually use the stuff for lube.

[buck1]

WOW BASS! Thanks for the tip!!
I must say I would dismiss what you just said if almost anyone ELSE had said it , but I have to give her a try! Thanks again....Buck

[btroj]

I will have to give it a try. I have some LLA kicking around so it it certainly worth a chance.

Brad

[Char-Gar]

I have been shooting 38 Specials in various .357 Magnum cylinders since the early 60's and have never considered the carbon/crud ring to be a significant problem. I clean the cylinder and give it a couple of passed with a stainless steel brush. I would not use one of them in the barrel, but have no issues with using one in the chamber.

I have never had any problems shooting .357 magnum in the sixguns after 38 Special use. IMHO this is more of a cosmetic and theoretical problem than a real issue.

[cajun shooter]

I received my first revolver a S&W model 28 when I went into the service in 1965 as a gift from my parents. That revolver shot thousands of 38 spl. Speer bullets loaded with 2.7 grains of Bullseye. I never had a problem cleaning nor was the cylinder ever damaged in any way from this practice. When I say thousands I am not stretching the truth as I was the POST Firearms Instructor for many years. I shot when I had no classes or reloading to do. The proper cleaning steps with the correct tools will stop all the rumors. My cylinder was always loaded with 357 mag shells when finished so that means no ring. What type of revolver are you using? You might need to have the cylinder checked for proper dimensions.

[Multigunner]

That would work well, I just need to find some 357 max cases! I wonder if a similar cases, like even a 223 , could be cut down a bit, expanded, and used in a similar role?
I think I have an afternoon project now. Maybe cut some teeth in it and thread the other end co I can spin it in a drill?

Brad

I'd suggest that you only use unplated cases for this.

I've long used a length of copper or brass tubing with teeth cut in the mouth and one and sometimes two slots cut down the sides to clean accumulated carbon and lead agregate from chamber necks of Enfield rifles.
Copper and brass won't cut steel but I'm not sure if the plating used on many pistol cartridge cases would be as gentle, especially if a chip became caught between case and chamber wall.

I never use a powered drill, only hand turned by a wooden handle afixed to the tubing. that way I get the feel of whats going on in there and don't get stuck or damage the chamber if grit in the fouling gets caught up.
Theres a lot more additives in rifle powders, especially military powders with flash suppessants, so residue of common pistol powders and soft lead should be easier to get out.