New H&R barrel.

[rdlange]

I got a 20ga rifled barrel for my Handi. Standard taper not USH. No sights. Want to know about and use lead slugs WITHOUT sabots. Big .609+ I guess.

Also shoot alot of airgun and my pellets look like the Lyman slug, which is probably too small for lead to bore contact. Or is it...!

Anyway, please point me towards info on lead to bore slug casting and shooting if you will. I just found this part of the Boolits forum so I'll be searching too.

Be Well...

[white eagle]

I use full bore slugs in 12 ga
find data for the weight of your slug(if you can) and go from there
work up your load like any other.... rifle,pistol load
have fun be safe

[turbo1889]

I suggest you order yourself up a 20ga. full bore solid mold from either Accurate Molds(.com) or Mountain Molds(.com). IME the best way to design a full bore cast soli slug is to make it like an overgrown SWC revolver boolit with a short stubby nose and long bearing section.

For the slug design, 20ga. rifled slug gun bores run between 0.615" to 0.625" with most being on the upper end of that size spectrum. I suggest you slug your bore and order a size a thousandth of an inch or two larger then the major groove diameter of your guns barrel. Minimum weight for a good diameter to length ratio (assuming your not going to have the mold hollow pointed by Erik at Hollow Point Mold(.com) after the mold cutter cuts it) is about 350 grains with an aggressive pointy SWC nose all the way up to a maximum sensible weight of about 500 grains. When designing the mold it's important to leave a "step" on the nose for the roll crimp to tighten up against and not make the nose too long so as to stick out of the end of the hull. The easiest way to make that step with Mountain Molds design program is to choose the "Bore Riding Truncated Cone" nose style and then set the bore rider diameter to as low as it will go and the bore riding length to "0.001" (step)" with no crimp groove. With Tom at Accurate Molds all you need to do is tell him you want a step at the base of the nose like a SWC revolver boolit has and he will draw it up that way. I do prefer not having only one groove and two drive bands and much prefer having two grooves and three drive bands.

Basically:

http://forums.handloads.com/uploads/turbo1889/2008-11-27_211251_Slug_Design_Do___Don't.JPG

And you should end up with something that looks like this:

http://forums.handloads.com/uploads/turbo1889/2009-11-26_125715_20ga_Full_Bore_Slug_Design_Examples.GIF

http://forums.handloads.com/uploads/turbo1889/2009-03-01_173219_20ga_Solid_450gr_Slug.JPG

[white eagle]

thats the mold I had Tom make for me
works like a charm
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=109115
mine is a full bore 12 ga
my bore measures .731 so I went .002 over in my H&R USH
you may have to modify your roll crimp tool if the nose is to long
I had to
best of luck

[rdlange]

Thank you. I've been reading some of the the threads excerpted above with interest and learned a bunch. I appreciate detailed posts. I'm new to this and taking my time. I'll check out the mold makers. What you folks have already responded is guiding me in the right direction.