Questions from a new caster

[Goat]

1. How do you know the difference between wheelweights with zinc and those without?
2. How can you get rid of the zinc? I've read something about the lead melting sooner than the zinc but the temp difference not being much. Does that mean you need a thermometer to keep it in the right spot?
3.What is best to flux the mix in the pot?
4. If I waterquench straight wheelweights can I expect any expansion at 1600-1700fps without annealing the bullet nose? Do I even need to waterquench at that velocity anyway? I have a Ranch Dog mould that drops three plainbase and three for a gas check.
I am SURE I am going to ask many more quesions as I learn to enjoy this new "habit" and I thank you now for all the help I am sure to get.
Goat
PS I am beginning this adventure for the 38/55 and then my 32/20.

[lcclower]

1. Zinc is harder than lead, test wheel weights with a set of diagonal wire cutters, the hard ones don't go in the pot.
2. See the link on fluxing with sulfur. It is a foul, vile,, un-neighborly thing to do so refer to #1.
3. Any source of carbon: 2 cycle motor oil, used motor oil, sawdust, beeswax, candle wax, bullet lube. I use sawdust from here.
4. You really want expansion, use straight lead bullets with paper patch. Don't know about annealing bullet noses, first I've heard of it.
Best to you, Goat.

[BruceB]

As we melt a pot-full of wheelweights, just keep a close eye on the pot contents.

When the whole mess gets up to melting temp, it goes through a "slush stage", which is a clear indication that the LEAD WW are about to melt. When the LEAD weights turn to a liquid, quickly scoop out all the floaters...this will include the steel clips, but it will also include all the non-lead weights as well.

Zinc, iron, aluminum, whatever....they all melt at higher temperatures than lead. Acting quickly as the pot's contents turn to liquid will positively remove all the undesirable types.

SOME WW will have a marking that tells what they are...ZN (zinc) , Al (aluminum), Fe (iron) etc. I still make a cursory check of what I'm putting into the pot, but the definitive check is just getting the bad stuff out of the pot as the LEAD weights melt.

Start each melt process with an EMPTY pot, add the weights to be melted, and watch closely.

[northmn]

Water quenched WW are ahrder than linotype and probably willl not expand out of a 38-55 or 32-20. Mix about half and half with pure lead or even more lead like about 1 WW to 2 pure lead. For my 30-30 I use about one to 3 and water harden. the bullets for hunting are placed in a pan of water and I heat the noses to anneal them. They expand even at lower velocities. I also like the Lee tumble lube for lubing. The 32-20 wa likely factory loaded with a tin lead ratio of near 1-40.

DP

[Gtek]

Goat- Spend a little time sorting, the diag. cutters works great. When you find zinc / steel tink it on the concrete. does not take long to get feel / sound. I seperate my stick ons. They go in soft PB pile for mixing later. Spend the fifty bucks on a good mechanical / dial thermometer. Keep under 725 and the STUFF floats. Get you big stainless steel spoons with holes, some like slots. One for first smelts (your nasty one), and a pretty one for alloy mixing to ingots. Cleaning / fluxing try a little of each. Blonde, brown, red, everybody likes different poison. Be SlOW, BE SAFE, you can always melt again and take another alloy direction. I was spooked for a while, you cannot buy the experience but there is a great crowd here that loves to help! Welcome to the boolit disease support group. Gtek

[a.squibload]

Search for a thermometer thread and "Tel-tru", closer to $20 for the same thermometer.

Found it, there are probably other posts about it:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=23649&highlight=tru-temp&page=2

another:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=109180&highlight=tel-tru

Also I think one of the Vendor Sponsors here sells them.
Yep, NOE, here it is:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=102777