Waterproofing?

[RugerFan]

Has anyone experimented with waterproofing? Before or after loading? Does the jacket still shed as the boolet leaves the muzzle? I read Paul Matthews version, but his beeswax/double boiler method is a bit convoluted for me.

I was thinking maybe coating PPed slugs with thinned LLA.

Any thoughts?

[docone31]

I use Turtle Auto Wax lightly smeared on. No issues so far.

[RugerFan]

I use Turtle Auto Wax lightly smeared on. No issues so far.

Have your cartridges been exposed to a rain shower?

[offshore44]

I've shot a grand total of 20 paper patched in my life, so take this with a grain of salt...all of them in the rain though. It does that around here.

Sno-seal boot grease. Cheap and a little goes a long way. It's beeswax and "petroleum aromatics" according to the MSDS. The aromatics evaporate and leave beeswax on the patch. Got lots of nice confetti with my 20 shots. Your mileage may vary a lot, so take it for what it's worth.

[RugerFan]

I've shot a grand total of 20 paper patched in my life, so take this with a grain of salt...all of them in the rain though. It does that around here.

Sno-seal boot grease. Cheap and a little goes a long way. It's beeswax and "petroleum aromatics" according to the MSDS. The aromatics evaporate and leave beeswax on the patch. Got lots of nice confetti with my 20 shots. Your mileage may vary a lot, so take it for what it's worth.

Ah very interesting. I may have to try that.

[303Guy]

I'd say you don't want anything that will be sticky soaked into the paper. That'll prevent the patch from separating from the boolit at the muzzle. Waxes are not sticky so that'll be why they work as lube and waterproofing.

[bbqncigars]

Sno-seal??! I just mixed up some of Mathew's recipe yesterday, dang it. I tried Rooster Jacket, and it waterproofed the PP and proved itself worthy as a glue as well. I won't be trying that again. The LLA worked pretty well, just messy. The Mathew's has a bit firmer consistency than Sno-seal (and smells better), but I would have bought off the shelf first. Live and learn.

[nanuk]

how does one test these? is there a dip test you would use?

[zuke]

I was told and use Johnson's Paste Wax, the same stuff I use for making up my own tumble lube.

[Smoke-um if you got-um]

I don't hunt in the hard rain but showers, light rain and snow are OK by me. I've used both Johnsons Paste and Liquid alox with pretty much equal results. Having said that, I still carry my rounds in a water proof pouch of some kind, even if it's just a zip lock plastic bag. The JPW is cleaner and smells better. As an added precaution I also tape my muzzle. These simple steps have kept me out of trouble, so far..........:wink:

Mike

[RugerFan]

I don't hunt in the hard rain but showers, light rain and snow are OK by me. I've used both Johnsons Paste and Liquid alox with pretty much equal results. Having said that, I still carry my rounds in a water proof pouch of some kind, even if it's just a zip lock plastic bag. The JPW is cleaner and smells better. As an added precaution I also tape my muzzle. These simple steps have kept me out of trouble, so far..........:wink:

Mike

I was wondering how JPW would work as well. I'll be moving back to Alaska and from the last time I lived there, I vividly remember some bad weather on extended hunts. I'm currently experimenting with PPing to get my CB velocity up for shooting at longer ranges than I would normally here in GA. Effective waterproofing will be a must.

[Smoke-um if you got-um]

I have to believe that "water resistant" would be a better way to describe most any preventive measure on paper patches. Light moisture after a couple of good wipes with JPW or liquid alox seems to have little or no effect. I would be concerned about the extreme environment you may experience in Alaska. If I were to be using them in that type of hunting I would concentrate on dry storage and transportation during the hunt. Tape over the muzzle would also be on my list for sure. I would have at least two different "dry" pouches on me with rounds in each in case one became damaged. Lastly, since there are several different "critters" that might consider you the "huntee" instead of the "hunter", I would most certainly have non PP loads with me or a back-up large caliber handgun. Both would not be extravagant, in my opinion. I've deer hunted in West Virginia,Western Maryland and several areas in Pa. where the black bear get really big but that doesn't compare to Alaska's potential for dangerous encounters. Best of luck to ya ..........

Mike

[pdawg_shooter]

JPW works well as does Lee TL. I have had my best luck with the same bullet lube used in lube-sizers. Most any of them will work. I am now using BAC from White Label in all my cast reloading. Bare and paper patched alike.

[barrabruce]

I use Lee tl sparingly on the patch and nose. I only sort of 1/2 wrap thou.

I did try "tea candle wax".
Heat nose in flame to warm in digits
Place nose in melted wax
Rotate.
you can then keep it melted and run it down the paper turning while keeping a drip hanging on just to the side of the flame.
Coated the whole lot.
Loaded then melted the wax around the neck to seal with the candle flame.
Gently gently.

No booms yet.!!!!

I relit the candle only after all the powder and loading was done.

I found the wax soaked into the paper and onto the core I think I wasn't getting good lift off. Groups suffered.
They don't melt in 38 C and are not sticky .

I may try it again soon.
Less wax
(I was trying to seat and seal the bullet in without and sizing of the neck or projo to have to worry about.)

Looks authentic but.......jest like what you see in the 'old ammo photos.

Different wax may help too.
I think there were as about water proof as I could get.
The primer pocket would need a drop of something on them it your real serious.

Just a thought.

I know it lots of mucking round.
But something to do when your sick of watch the grass grow and the rain falling.....somewhere between giving up the will to live and things you should be doing.

Barra

[303Guy]

The melted wax soaked into the patch may be destroying the main characteristic that makes paper patching work. That is the pneumatic effect. Unproven, I know but it does make sense to me at least. It could also be that with wax dipping there is simply too much lubricant for the patch to disintegrate at the muzzle. :idea: Hey! I could test it my test tube! :razz: OK, It's on my 'to do' list.

[wgr]

get some siny. motor oil nix it 3to 1 with colman fuel. it will water proff the paper and not be sticky you wont be able to even feel it when it dries mobil 5w/50w weight works good