Metal finish

[waksupi]

I was wondering if any of you had experience with baked on firearms finishes, and what your experiences have been.

[Blackwater]

Waksupi, I've been doing some of the Teflon-Moly from Brownell's and like it. The key to any of these finishes seems to be to get the metal absolutely 100.000% clean of ANY and ALL oils before you spray and bake the metal. If it's not scrupulously clean, the finish will chip off. Apparently, the oil keeps the finish from bonding with the metal.

I've also used Gun Kote, I think it is, some years ago. Again, clean the metal well and it works well. Any oil spots, no matter how slight, and the finish will at some point blister and/or chip off.

If I were doing one, I'd use the teflon-moly stuff, I think, though I must add the caviat that I haven't tried any of the newish ceramic coatings, but I'd assume that the same scrupulously clean metal is necessary with it too?

I think some of the factory finishes use electricity to help the finish and metal bond more reliably and consistently also.

I think any of these spray and bake finishes ought to work well, though some are supposed to be harder than the others. Gun Kote was pretty tough, and the teflon moly stuff seems to be pretty hard too, from my limited experience with it (about 6 guns now). Haven't tried any abrasion tests yet, though, either, so don't take that to the bank just yet. I did get to see some of the Gun Koted guns take some significant licks without chipping or marring, and was pretty impressed that it didn't get a nick in the finish.

FWIW?

[AnthonyB]

Ric, I used the Brownell's spray on an older Marlin 1895 and it turned out very well. Getting all the oil off was very important, and fingerprints would show up as well. Applying the spray evenly was the biggest problem, and I used up an entire can of the stuff trying to get it right. Oven curing was easy; fitting the barreled action into the oven wasn't. The rifle has been through two hunting seasons and the finish is holding up very well. One note of caution - the instructions say the stuff will have to be sandblasted off once it has been cured, so make sure you are happy with the paint job before curing. I have another can of the stuff waiting for use on a buddy's 1911 and will really see how tough the finish is when I get to that project. Tony

[waksupi]

I may have to give this a try. Ceramic finish is what we are looking at, so will most likely have to do some experimenting with it. I wonder if a commercial oven would work? Or, maybe fabricate one? Bet I could do that. Thanks for the imput. As with any kind of finish, degreasing is definitely #1.

[danski26]

The brownells stuff only need 300 degrees to cure but it warns not to over heat it as it will discolor. Also a shiny buffed finish as it would be if you were about to blue the weapon is not good. The teflon/moly stuff did not stick to the first shot gun i did because it was too smooth "mirror polish". Brownells tech guys said rough the metal up a bit.....i did and then it worked well.

[Joey]

I have used Gunkote for all my firearms. In fact I immediately applied it to my new purchases right away. No complaints after almost 10 yrs. of use.

[Four Fingers of Death]

Should be good when you gun is a bit below par, finish wise. Sandblast and spray!

[Char-Gar]

I have an OM Ruger Single Six (1958 vintage) that I had finished with Gun-Kote (Satin Black). It makes a nice looking and durable finish. I would not use it on a high dollar show piece, but on a working gun it is a very good option.

[Topper]

Here's a good reference, should you decide to send it to someone to finsh for you.
http://www.thegungarage.com/