Bolt forging

[Char-Gar]

Guys where can I sent a mauser bolt to have it forged down for scope use. I don't have anybody local, so I might as well mail it to somebody who can do it right. Suggestions please.

[mike in co]

do you have an oxy/acet torch set, or access ? an fair sized vice ??...i have the blocks and heat sink. i have loaned them before....

mike

[Bullshop]

E. R. Shaw
BIC/BS

[KCSO]

I really prefer cutting off the old handle and welding on a new one. You get less heat build up and I feel there is less chance of softening the bolt. This is just my preference. There ought to be someone close who does this.

[Char-Gar]

KCSO... I no nothing about welding, heat and all of that. My local gunsmith, who is top notch, will forge a bolt handle, but won't weld a new one on. He tells me, the temp from welding is much higher and the risk to the bolt is also higher. He will forge my bolt, but he is running 7 to 9 months behind and that is too long for me to wait.

[KYCaster]

Chargar: Check out this guy.

http://www.rrguns.us/



Jerry

[dragonrider]

I have made and welded several bolt handles, I set them up so the bolt is mostly immersed in water, tig a little and let it cool, then tig some more etc. Takes a while but it's only time.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/PaulGauthier/bolt%20handle%20and%20ingot/bolthandleandingot003.jpg
This one is from my 9.3x57. I don't like short handles bending over the originals just dosen't work for me.

[Uncle R.]

Either forging or welding can damage the bolt if not done properly, and either is safe if you do it right. I'd prefer the welding method - I don't care much for the look of bent Mauser handles.
There are three areas on the bolt that are susceptible to heat damage - the locking lugs, the striker camming surfaces at the rear of the bolt body, and the base of bolt handle which gives you primary extraction when it contacts the cam surface of the receiver. There's simply no excuse for overheating the locking lugs, since they're far away from weld area and easily protected. The cam surfaces are much closer to the handle, in thinner material, and more likely to be overheated. The base of the bolt handle is being welded and you can't do that without heating it beyond the critical point.
I'd prefer TIG welding in this area, using water (wet rag?) or heat absorbing paste to protect the locking lugs. The beauty of water is that it'll start to steam / boil / sizzle thereby giving you warning before you overheat the lugs. Use heat absorbent paste and / or heat-sink blocks to protect the striker camming surfaces. I'd also allow frequent cool-down periods. The advantage of TIG welding is that the heat is more concentrated than when using oxy-actylene - although oxy-acetylene will work too if you know what you're doing. The actual welding technique is kinda counter-intuitive. You have to get in there quickly, pour in the heat, weld a small portion of the joint, then get out and let everything cool before too much heat reaches the striker cam surfaces. DON'T water quench to cool until the weld area is well below red in color - if at all. Then clean everything up, apply new heat paste, and repeat - until the weld is complete. I'd then oil quench the last weld from a dull red color to re-harden the base of the bolt handle. Grind/file/shape the weld area, polish it shiny, re-apply your protective measures, torch heat that polished bolt base to a yellow / faint blue, then cool slowly. You're done.
Nothing to it!
:-D

[Hackleback]

Try bolt man, never used his services but have heard good things.


http://www.mosinnagant.net/Boltman/Boltman.html

[mike in co]

gentlemen,
while i have bent and welded bolt handles , i have also fabricated new bolt handles from the old one.
the latest news to me was on my israeli 7.62 fn mauser and a preduce 44/98 8mm mauser.

the 7.62 has a bent/arched bolt, and the 8mm has a sharp bent bolt.
i did the drill and tap for both recvr's.
by using tall/extra tall rings or a weaver rail/spacer i was able to mount scopes (weaver 4x texas) without reworking either bolt.
and does it all work ??? the 8mm took second and the 7.62 took first in our clubs vintage sniper match( original mil surplus with upto a 4x scope added)...sr21 100yd target shot at 200yds.

just something else to consider....

[Four Fingers of Death]

This is a guy who is a farmer and is selling guns to keep his farm afloat he says. i have never bought anything off him. but he has interesting bolt on bolt handles for mil sup rifles. Apparently the drill bit and the tap are included. I was thinking about one for my Mosin Nagant, but it is an original Remington and I don't feel like tampering with it. Mick

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Crankyfarmers-Discount-Shooter_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

[Char-Gar]

Thanks guys for all of your help.. I have contacted "Boltman" and looks like that will be the way I am going.