Magnum shot?

[Canuck Bob]

I purchased 100#s of Lawerance Magnum #8 as my base lead for starting casting. A very recent medical problem requires me to be very careful about contaminating my blood with anything let alone lead. Therefore I'm researching if I can cast with this lead with minimal handling or settle for jacketed.

I am considering only a 32-20 rifle, a long barrel Winoku 92.

Will this lead, app. 94/6 with arsenic cast decent bullets without tin added in a small .314 slug?

I want to cast and shoot with zero extra handling, no GC, no sizing, one melt in the pot, Alox tumble lube. I want to buy a mold, Lee pot, ladle, and shoot.

Is handling tin a concern?

Will adding tin without a smelting step work when casting magnum shot? I've heard about issues with the graphite covering? Wouldn't the graphite act as a flux?

Due to the low volume what if a guy alloyed to the Lyman #2 level, assuming tin is safe? The cost isn't an issue for 100#s of lead total to me. My alloy components will be clean commercial shot and roto tin, no scrap or WWs.

I really want to shoot my new 32-20 with reloaded cast bullets. But God's will is always Family first.

[sargenv]

I'd think the graphite would float to the top to be skimmed off.. there isn't much graphite in a bag of shot.. a teaspoon would likely be a lot.. since it goes a long way..

If you handled the tin or solder alloy with gloves on, I'd see no reason to be concerned..

But in my case.. I was tested for lead and arsenic before I started casting.. my level was 4, I was tested about 18 months after I'd been casting/smelting/collecting and it is still a 4.

I think if you handle the lead with leather gloves and wash up after handling you will be fine. Also handling the cooled bullets with latex or other type of barrier glove will help to keep this stuff off of you if you are concerned about it. As long as you don't ingest or inhale it, I don't think you will develop anything bad from it. There are sure to be other comments from ppl more experienced than I.

[leadman]

The graphite on the shot will act somewhat like an insulator but is easily overcome by using a large spoon to flatten any floaters against the side of the pot. This is worst case, as you probably won't have any issues with new shot. Just make sure you flux several times.

The shot may need some tin depending on your mold. Designs like a semi-wadcutter with several lube grooves and a sharp shoulder may need some tin.

Make sure you have air movement from behind you blowing the fumes away from you, leather gloves when casting along with face protection, nitrile gloves for when you are handling the cast bullets work well. Change clothes and shower after casting, keep the casting area clean by damp wiping and you should be fine. Don't cast in the basement if you can do it outside.

Commercial cast bullets are available for your cartridge, although they may not be as good as what you can make.

[Canuck Bob]

Thanks guys. I can cast in my garage shop with all the doors open. I'll stockpile bullets for the winter but I must admit I'm getting soft. Winter is a great time to relax, read, and avoid the cold.

The gloves are a great idea and I'll look into some other safety gear. I'll also wear a pair of clean coveralls and wash them and me after all casting sessions. I read a number of posts about safety and for me casting maybe 500 100 grain bullets a year it seems easily manageable without any complications.

I have considered Berry's 110 grain plated .311 bullet as well. However I bought this rifle because the 32-20 lever action and casting belong together. Even with buying lead shot the cost per bullet is very cheap. No wonder you guys are so worried about WWs disappearing! I'm also glad my bullets don't weigh 400 grains or I'm feeding my Colt .45 Series 70 anymore.