semi auto lubrication

[steg]

Guys I'll be the first to admit, I prefer wheelguns and single shot rifles, but my Son talked me into a Walther P22, It's a sweet little thing, but after cleaning I don't have a clue what lube to use after I'm done, I cleaned it today and had a brainstorm, I had a small vial of silicone grease, it's about the slickest thing I've ever come across, so after a liberal application of the stuff, and wiping down the piece, I worked the slide, nice and smooth, tried it three more times and it seemed to me that it was slowing up, one more time and it only returned halfway and didn't close up until I helped it along, so I've got it all cleaned up again but I have no idea what to use as a lube. I've used Hoppes #9 but it seems to evaporate after a week or so, I'm at a loss.......steg

[btroj]

I use CLP in cold weather as it is thin,- good gun oil is fine when it is warmer. I like oil over grease as it allows the junk to float away.

I am sure some prefer grease or other specific oils. The key is to keep it lubed.

[L1A1Rocker]

"Break Free" CLP for all my auto pistols. Do not use gun "oil" on anything that is a defensive arm. Long term storage with "oil" will collect dust and the "oil" will evaporate. This creates a situation where the the dust acts as a glue.

[steg]

What us CLP? we used Break free as a lube ocasionally, the stuff was in a squeeze bottle,with a long drip tube, I think they had powdered teflon or something like that in it, you had to shake it up if it set for any length of time, because the stuff would settle out, and the smell of it was really rank, we used to keep our own can of 3 IN ONE oil so we didn't have to smell the stuff, thiis was through a military contract, and you know Uncle Sam only buys the best, LOL...........................steg

BTW, thanks for the info guy's, I appreciate it..steg

[BulletFactory]

If you see wear on parts, shiny places, those areas require grease. Same with high friction areas like slide rails. Other points, pivots and springs require an oil. Use a dry lubricant on the striker assembly, but make sure you clean every bit of lubrication out of this area, or the dry lubes will gum up. I wouldnt use a P-22 for a primary defensive gun, but it makes a great BUG. Do a google search on the P-22 bible, and follow the suggestions inside.

[82nd airborne]

I have had 2 p22's and never got a mag through either without a malfunction of one sort or another. They seem to do much better with a suppressor, so give the man 200 bucks and dont look back!
P22's are hit or miss, some are great, some are far from it, I hope you got a good one!

[BulletFactory]

Lucky. Possession of a suppressor in Michigan is a felony. I've got a limited edition P-22 in layaway. Its for my daughter, she's 8. She already has a Ruger 10-22, but its too long for her to hold properly.

[Gelandangan]

I would use a drop of copper based lubricant on the slide.

[Light attack]

Slide Glide works great. It's a grease available from Dillon.

[giz189]

Break Free is good stuff. Might be the same as you used in the military though. I use a lot of Ed's Red now too.

[Bloodman14]

I use moly grease on my guns; never had a problem.

[*Paladin*]

One of my favorite lubes is Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-40 diesel engine oil. It's made to withstand much higher temps than gun oils, adheres to the steel, is slick as snot, stays "pourable" to -40, and a $6 quart lasts forever! Diesel engine oil also has a heavy detergent additive package in it that keeps the carbon from building up.

[Bullshop]

I am not a semi auto fan so not much personal experiance to go on. We did get a call from a panicked customer soon to deploy to Iraq. He asked if I could rush an order of Bullplate so he got it before he left. He said it had proven effective in the desert and that it was in common use. He seemed pretty worried about being there without it.

[waksupi]

Dan, that is just opposite of my experience. When I am going to be in very dirty conditions, I want all oil removed from a firearm. In extreme cold conditions too, for that matter.

[winelover]

Dry lubes that I prefer are Hornady One Shot or Sentry Smoothe Kote. Depends how lazy I am. Smoothe Kote is a liquid and takes longer to apply.

Winelover

[blasternank]

I use plain old Remoil and it works great for me. Some on the slide and on shinny parts and you should be gtg.

[krag35]

Lubri-Plate (sp?) white engine assembly grease. Old gunsmith told me it was originaly designed for lubing the Garand, don't know if that is true or not, but i still use it on everything.

[MtGun44]

For range shooting, synthetic gun oil. For CCW, light coat of synthetic grease.

I think that silicone greases are more for anti-stick purposes and electrical connections,
not really very good lubricants for machinery.

Bill

[ole 5 hole group]

Breakfree CLP will provide adquate protection and that is the lube Les Baer uses when his company ships out their pistols. I use jardine grease on the rails and CLP everywhere else. Just run the autos on the wet side and you shouldn't have a problem, so that means just apply a couple drops every 100 rounds or so at the range.

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

http://www.brianenos.com/store/slide-glide.html

http://www.jardinescustom.com/accessories.html

[Harter66]

Singer oil has served me well from model 12s to Hi-powers , 1911s to BPS.

Stuff that didn't work well,syl-glide,DGF/DrySlide,silicon left in visible layers.

I must quantify the above as being used in duck guns hunting in cattails,mud boggs,alkili flats and blow sand from 70*--5*f

[*Paladin*]

Dan, that is just opposite of my experience. When I am going to be in very dirty conditions, I want all oil removed from a firearm. In extreme cold conditions too, for that matter.

Agree 100%. Both Iraq and Afghanistan have moon dust-like soil that is blowing around and it will stick to anything with oil on it, like steel to a magnet. I kept my weapons dry as possible and STILL had to clean on a nearly daily basis.

[skeet1]

STEG
CLP I think stands for "Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant" and is what Break Free is.

Ken

[*Paladin*]

STEG
CLP I think stands for "Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant" and is what Break Free is.

Ken

Pretty close. The military calls it Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative. It's decent lube, but a bit thin. The best current military lube in use I've found is LSA. It's a bit thicker lube. We use LSA for everything from M9's to M2's. If you ever find LSAT (LSA w/ Teflon), we use it for the Mk.19 and it's good stuff!

[Bullshop]

Waksupi
That's what I thought too but he was adamant. He called several times and said it was urgently needed. I couldn't help thinking he was confusing ours with something else.

[JIMinPHX]

In my experience, silicone does not last in a rubbing application, like a slide. WD-40 turns to glue after a few months. Hoppies #9 is not a lube. It is a cleaner. It too turns to glue after a long period of time. I found that out the hard way on my grandfather's shotgun.

I've been using 30 weight motor oil for years with no problems. Friends of mine up in parts of Canada, where it is so cold that oil turns too thick, use dry lube with good results.

[captaint]

Thank you, skeet for the Break Free explanation. Plus one on the Slide Glide - very slick stuff and it comes in a lighter weight for extreme cold conditions. I use mostly the Break Free on my AR's, and some Slide Glide. I also got, from Dillon, some oil called Snake Oil. Haven't used it yet, though. enjoy Mike

[twotoescharlie]

ATF- closest thing to whale oil, ATF was originally made from whale oil until it was banned. will not gum or dry out.

TTC

[steg]

WOW!!! You Guys are Amazing, thanks for all the advise and the explanations that were posted, that should get her up and runnin again, It was working great out of the box with just bulk remingtons, and it was still working fine until I decided to clean it, then It took two or three times clearing just to get a mag thru, I'ts not used as a defense gun, although if it was working the way it was in the beginning, I wouldn't have any qualms over using it that way, my CC is a S&W Airweight 38, with a Crimson Trace lazer in the grip

[BulletFactory]

XD sc .40 here.

[frankenfab]

I use Militec 1, because I bought a bottle a few years ago, and it seems to work well. But I will be giving synthetic motor oil a try in the future.

Grease does collect dirt, but it might be a way of lapping the mating parts if used for a short time in the beginning of the firearms life.

I would hope that the function of the weapon did not depend on using a specific lubricant.;)

[Echo]

Been using Marvel Mystery Oil for decades...

... but then I don't get into real cold situations...

[old turtle]

+1 Echo, I use Marvel Mystery Oil on my guns and iron molds. Works great.

[Recluse]

I have no idea what to use as a lube. I've used Hoppes #9 but it seems to evaporate after a week or so, I'm at a loss.......steg

A number of years ago, I began using Mobil 1 (synthetic motor oil) and have never looked back. Best gun lube I've ever used.

:coffee:

[steg]

So far my Son came up with CLP, and a product called Lubricone, anyone ever heard of it or tried it, He didn't bring it home yet, just ordered it, and I'm kind of running around in circles today, didn't get a chance to Google it..............................steg

[Ickisrulz]

Gun Butter works for me. It's expensive, but lasts a very long time.

[Moonie]

I use 1 part ATF, 1 part full synthetic 10-30 motor oil and 1 part STP. It stays where you put it and doesn't migrate.

I can see that this wouldn't be good for a dirty/sandy environment, so I don't throw mud/dirt/sand at them.

[steg]

I got the can of Lubricone, it's a spray "dry"silicone, so I guess I'll be going with the Break Free CLP...............steg

[steg]

Used the Break Free CLP, that stuff is slick, nothing like the DOD gave us to use that stuff was junk. didn't get to try it out yet, but the slides really slick, thanks, Guys.............steg

[Nuke Boy]

I use 20-50 Mobil 1 Synthetic at 80%. And Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer at 20%.

It breaks up carbon like mad. And keeps it soft. So all you have to do is wipe it

away! And stays where you put it. Proven to me on the worst offender A HKMP5SD.

The suppressor blows a ton of carbon in to the action. About 200 rds(13.3 seconds

of shooting) before and it would start to malfunction and slow down using rem oil or

hopps oil. CLP worked better but the carbon deposits are rock hard. The mixture I

state works very well and the carbon deposits stay soft and are easily wiped away.

It works for me!

[fecmech]

Another vote for Mobil 1

[shovel80]

I use a White Grease in a Syringe from "Wilson Combat"!

Terry

[deltaenterprizes]

I have used Mobile 1 and STP mix for quite a while and it works well.