50/50 bullet lube for a mold lube

[cavalrymedic]

OK, noob question time. I got out to do some casting with my new Lee C308-150FN. I cleaned the mold with a toothbrush and simple green, then smoked it with a butane lighter. Ready to cast but I have to lube the mold first, right? So I used my 50/50 stick lube which is half bees wax and half alox, pretty common stuff. I give it just the gentlest touch on the guide groves and on the sprue plate screw. What happens? Well, after a few minutes I see that somehow, it has made it's way through the micro-vents and into the cavities. I cast a few boolits and confirm that I screwed it all up.

Question. I have used this stuff before on a Lee mold and it didn't work into the cavities. I swear I barely got any in the alignment grooves. Is this stuff just not worth using as a mold lube? Is it me?

And since I'm at it. What is the worst that could happen if I don't use ANY mold lube?

[captaint]

medic - Many of the folks here use Bullplate lube. It is available from the Bullshop at the bottom of this page. We apply it (it is liquid) with a Q-tip and then wipe off the excess. It takes VERY little to do the job. I lube the underside of the sprue plate, the top of the mold, the sprue plate pivot pin and the guide pins. Again, VERY little. And sometimes I still get some in the cavities. I'm not sure I would give a mold much work without any lube. If you don't have anything else, use trans fluid or 2 stroke oil, just don't overdo it. enjoy Mike

[onondaga]

Not using any lube is great if your mold is as immaculate as an eye surgeons instrumens. But, it won't stay that way very long when casting. Typical disasters include molds not closing all the way and that can cause massive amounts of mold flash fins with a lot of metal and non usable bullets. Molds not closing all the way also can be seen as misaligned bullet halves with half of the bullet tip being visibly longer than the other half. This happens when the guide surfaces don't slide into place correctly before pouring or when molds have been damaged from pounding them. Out of specification mold production can cause misaligned bullet halves also but pounding is most frequently the cause of permanent damage to mold alignment.

No lubricant can also cause molds to be stubborn to open and require tapping that leads to unnecessary wear and loss of fit to the mold handles and guiding surfaces.

There is a lot of dancing around the subject of mold lubrication. I have created a new rule for mold lube. No petroleum products are suitable and they cause caking and discolored sticky crud on bullet molds because of the heat involved and the reaction of petroleum to heat.

"Silicone dielectric grease" Google shopping search it. It takes the heat, doesn't cake up, discolor or get sticky . The clear stuff is best.

I just don't know how to get newcomers acquainted with how very little lube is required in the just right places on clean bullet molds. I am considering producing a tutorial video on that subject and offering a product that I can make shameful profits on by repackaging silicone dielectric grease. Newcomers generally don't believe anybody about where and how much lube to use and I give up on that subject as it has become a war zone.

Gary

[stubshaft]

When you lube the sprue plate screw, do so after knocking the sprue off of the boolits and before dropping them out of the cavity.

Over 20 years ago I bought some mold lube sticks from Veral at LBT. They are about 1/4" in diameter and 3" long and came in packs of five. I use them everytime I cast boolits and I usually cast over 25,000 a year. I have just started on the third one. That is to give you an idea of how little lube it takes to keep a mould happy.

[cavalrymedic]

onandaga, I have tube of Silicone Heat Sink base from Radio Shack that I used when putting a new processor in my computer. Is this the stuff you are talking about?

Thanks for the good and encouraging info.

[Andy_P]

Such as this:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51sI9qDIhgL._SS500_.jpg

[D Crockett]

I just use a graphic pencle on mine been doing it for years now and I have had no problem yet with it D Crockett

[onondaga]

Read your label carefully, heat sink and dielectric grease are not the same. Most heat sink greases contain powdered metals/other stuff and are not clear. Clear dielectric like in andy_p's post is the stuff.

Gary

[cavalrymedic]

Ahh, got it now, thanks. I'll pick some up at the autoparts store and give it a go. Much appreciated.

I did finally manage to throw some bullets from the mold. I cleaned it, AGAIN, and this time I'm not entirely convinced any lube got on the mold at all. I put less than a pin heads full on the sprue screw and the alignment pins and while I'm not sure it did any good, the cavities didn't get lubed. The mold held up for about 200 boolits which was the limit of the lead I have ready for casting.

Tomorrow, if the weather is good and my wife is amiable, I will smelt some more W/W and go get a tube of the Silicone Dielectric Grease.

[MtGun44]

Bull Plate lube is recommended. Seartch on "Bull Shop cast bullets" on the web.

Bill