Barrel vise for 788 Remington

[ohland]

Well, I finally got to making chips.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_179094d781be2539c8.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=149)

Upon reflection, a better way would be to put the chunks in a vise, then I can use the same setup and measure from a set point.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_179094d781c6e00665.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=150)

Top is done, simply drilling two holes. 3/8 through, followed by 1/2 inch for the studs.

Tomorrow I need to pick up the centers in the bottom piece, drill 3/8, follow with 27/64, then tap 1/2 - 13. Dad's got some walnut for the blocks... why using good walnut instead of maple... :groner:

[deltaenterprizes]

I used oak for the blocks.

[ohland]

Well, it's as complete as it's going to be.

Tapping the lower half:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_179094d79132a9487c.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=158)

Note that I'm using the mill vise. One day I should tram the mill, but its close enough. That's a 12" crescent wrench. I was using a 6", but it's a bit wee.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_179094d7913a52b9b4.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=159)

Completed vise. Some versions have holes drilled for mounting bolts through the lower half, but for me, a pair of big C clamps will fasten the "ears" down to the mill table (welded 1/2" steel plate).:2_high5:

[deltaenterprizes]

Looks good! Nice work.

[KCSO]

Machine some aluminum blocks next you will fnd they work better than wood.

[ohland]

Machine some aluminum blocks next you will fnd they work better than wood.

Pulled out the 1.75" OD x 1" ID x 1.75" long aluminum tubing. Just faced it off to 1.748 ish, and bored it to 1.030".

788 Remington barrel (222 Remington) is 1.124" just in front of recoil lug, and tapers down to 1.025' at a distance of 1.750 ish towards the muzzle. Doing the math, 1.124 - 1.025 is @ .100", so the right angle is .050" high, 1.750" long, thats about a 2 degree angle.

Bought a 1.75 x 2" annular cutter to cut the hole for the bushing, it came yesterday. We'll see what the wood blocks with aluminum bushings do, if it blows chunks, time to dig up some 1.5 ish by 1.75 stock (steel or aluminum, whichever is cheapest), cut to length, shim with some parallels to keep them apart @ 1/4", then drill the 1.75 bore.

Oh, got to get a jeweler's saw or whatever to slit the bushing down the sides. The short boring bar from Mesa Tool worked fine, my Aloris 104 boring bar holder does it to it... Now only if some jerk hadn't lifted my cc (touch swipe out in NM?), Waiting on a new cc from my carrier.

The bushing slides down the barrel and stops @ 1.75" out. Now to crudely set the compound with a General protractor... This ain't nuklear rocket science...

[smilie=2:

[ohland]

Machining bushing

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_179094ddfdf5dc466c.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=981)

Bushing on barrel

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_179094ddfdf846ca2b.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=982)

Bushing and annular cutter

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_179094ddfdfa4648f5.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=983)

Might grab a 1/8th inch saw for slitting as walls are .310 on the barrel end. Fit is OK for the finest of chinese lathes... Though a hole saw will do for wood, the cutter was about $75, might as well use it.

NOTE: If you wonder why I'm using a 1.75" bushing, Brownell's has octagonal bushings in that diameter. I don't have a broach that big, nor will I buy one for this...


:coffee:

[ohland]

Machining bushing
Might grab a 1/8th inch saw for slitting as walls are .310 on the barrel end. Fit is OK for the finest of chinese lathes... Though a hole saw will do for wood, the cutter was about $75, might as well use it.

:coffee:

My dad found out that using a slitting saw in aluminum creates enough heat to melt the blade. Thin tools on aluminum without coolant makes for a nasty time as the aluminum expands as it heats. Then it clamps down on the cutting tool.

:popcorn:

[Mk42gunner]

Looks like decent work to me.

Maybe I'm too cheap, but what about using a garden variety hacksaw to split your bushing?

Robert

[Nobade]

You will find that oak or lead makes a better bushing. Aluminum smears onto barrels and is near impossible to remove. I use lead in the shop, poured around the barrels so it fits well. When it gets mashed and doesn't work any more I just melt and re-pour a new one. Use with Brownell's rosin.

[ohland]

Aluminum smears onto barrels and is near impossible to remove.

Weeeell, aluminum sure does a good job of filling in anything that was stamped into the barrel. Some interesting aluminum-tone highlights....

God bless, time to look for lead foil or thin lead sheet. It turned in the plain wood blocks. Dad thinks rosin would do, but I think not.

My 1.75" annular bushing did a good job on the blocks, nearly a polished finish.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_179094dee9df62ca8c.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1103)

Not showing the barrel shank, once it works thats different. Took off the globe sight, sight base, the FoolProof, and the trigger.


[smilie=b:

[Multigunner]

You will find that oak or lead makes a better bushing. Aluminum smears onto barrels and is near impossible to remove. I use lead in the shop, poured around the barrels so it fits well. When it gets mashed and doesn't work any more I just melt and re-pour a new one. Use with Brownell's rosin.

A friend has tried casting barrel vise blocks using fiberglass resins. It would probably not be suitable for many barrels or heavy torque and would have limited applications.
Its been many years but I think he used a pair of grooved very dense hardwood blocks and bedded barrels to those then used a very strong barrel vise. It may have been hydraulic, the frame was a stand up type with base.

I've also seen aluminum leave smears on a rifle barrel.

[ohland]

My lead sheet from Rotometals came in Friday, took it downstairs and cut a small strip, re-inserted the bushing, slipped in the barreled action, tightened 'er down, and it still turns.

Looking at the bushing, and it appears to have splayed outwards. The wood is not thick enough to prevent the bushing from splaying out.

Bright spot - the lead sheet seemed to have removed some aluminum on the barrel...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_179094df38bbbb923c.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1144)

The lead sheet formed beautifully! We need more pressure, Scottie!

Now to pick up two 1 1/2 high by 1 3/4 deep by 3.5" long pieces of C1018 for the blocks.

:popcorn:

[bandmiller2]

I just use oak blocks in a good large bench vice. Put the blocks togather and drill a smaller hole than the barrel.I wrap masking tape around the barrel and clamp tite never had one I couldn' remove. Frank C.

[shotman]

support the lug or you will twist the locks off . Its not like a 700

[ohland]

support the lug or you will twist the locks off . Its not like a 700

The barrel wrench has the cut-out for the lug AND it has been always tightened down with the lug in the recess.

[JIMinPHX]

My dad found out that using a slitting saw in aluminum creates enough heat to melt the blade. Thin tools on aluminum without coolant makes for a nasty time as the aluminum expands as it heats. Then it clamps down on the cutting tool.

:popcorn:

I use a slitting saw in aluminum all the time. With the proper spindle speed & feed rate, they go through aluminum like a hot knife through butter. You do need a little lube though. I use Kool Mist water soluble stuff on the slitting saw because it cleans up easily.



Tapping the lower half:
...That's a 12" crescent wrench. I was using a 6", but it's a bit wee.


When I tap threads in a hole that I just drilled on a mill, I run the tap right in with the drill chuck, as long as the tap isn't much bigger than 3/8". I use spiral point gun taps for that because they hold up pretty well in that kind of situation & you don't need to stop & break chips with them. You can go right through in one pass. They do require either a thru hole or a deep hole, since they push the chips ahead of them as they go deeper into the hole. Use plenty of oil if you are going to try this at home. This trick works well in most materials up to & including 1018 mild steel. For some tougher alloys, I use different methods. I also use a spiral point gun tap in a cordless drill for sizes up to & including 1/4-20.

You can find a few more examples of barrel vices here - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=91378