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View Full Version : S&W 38 Special to 22 Centerfire Conversion??



kywoodwrkr
11-23-2006, 01:09 PM
Anyone performed surgery on a M-15 to convert it to a 22 Centerfire?
I have a M-15 with bad barrel which I would like to convert to 22 Harvey K-chuk.
Has anyone fit a 22 barrel to a M-15 receiver and then fit a 22 cylinder to this combo?
Like to hear what problems were discovered and especially the resolutions to same.
Have barrel and cylinder and good supply of .222 jacketed bullets.
Thanks in advance for any and all information.
DaveP kywoodwrkr

versifier
11-23-2006, 10:50 PM
Wasn't it the .22 Rem Jet Magnum that they had really bad setback/cylinder binding problems with? The K-chuck is in the same working pressure range, even though it is based on the Hornet case and not the .357 as is the Jet. For some unknown reason, the K-chuck isn't listed in COTW, so I am forced to rely upon my not-always-as-reliable-as-I'd-like memory. Center fire .22's don't do well in revolvers, or there'd be a lot of them on the market for small game hunting. I'd consider rebarrelling your m15 as is, sell it, and buy a Contender in .22 Hornet, K-Hornet, or even .223.

kywoodwrkr
11-24-2006, 09:38 AM
The Harvey K-chuk used to be in the COTW, wildcat section.
I already have reamer and reloading dies for this .
This has been in the mill for ten or more years with me.
The Harvey K-chuk is credited with being the forerunner of the S&W 22 Jet revolver.
Due to the sharper shoulders is supposed to be more revolver friendly. How much more remains to be seen.
My current quest is to determine how much effort there is in replacing the barrel with the 22 version and the crane cylinder with the 22 variety.
In other words are there any gotchas I can be aware of, saving me time and effort later.
Supposedly the earlier conversions were done with K22's reworking firing pin.
I have this old M15 frame so figure I'll give it a whirl
Not sure I remember where all the parts are but will find everything before chopping away.
Thanks for the reply.
DaveP kywoodwrkr

9.3X62AL
11-24-2006, 01:48 PM
I'm always eager to buy or build another rat-whacker. The firing pin part of the deal was always the question.....a Model 17/617 with swap cylinder in such a chambering would be a cool tool, for sure--if the firing pin issue could be addressed. The Model 53's had an adjustable pin arrangement, and I would imagine a good smithy could develop one--at a good price, I'd reckon.

If you are alredy committed to a barrel change-out, I would seek a .224" groove diameter rather than the .222"-.223" rimfire dimensions. LOTS more bullet/boolit choices in the "mainstream" diameter.

gzig5
11-28-2006, 01:45 PM
Dave,
I am not familiar with the pressures of that cartridge, but you might consider lining the existing barrel. It is not difficult to do, and liners are readily available from Brownells and others. Usually this is done on lower pressure cartridges, but may be applicable in your case. It would sure simplify the swap.
Greg

Ross
11-29-2006, 02:32 AM
Some years ago a fellow shooter here had a Kay Chuck. His IIRC was a K-38 With a K-22 Barrel and cylinder. I believe the work was done by Christies in Sacratomato.
The gun was his pride and joy. He shot very well with it. I'm sure it was inspired by the famous Velo-Dog "gamer" revolver that got Askins in Dutch with his unit. That was Askins, wasn't it?
Cheers IIRC from Darkest California,
Ross

Bent Ramrod
12-01-2006, 04:13 PM
Of course, you'd need to confirm the relative costs, but it seems to me that sleeving the chambers of your revolver and relining the barrel to .22 caliber would cost no more than finding and refitting a new barrel and cylinder, and then rechambering. Your most tricky problem, I would think, would be reworking the extractor. Deputy Al is right about the .224" barrel; it might be as well to turn your liner out of a section of varmint rifle barrel, with a step in the breech/throat area so the liner is supported against any forward thrust when the bullet hits the forcing cone.

From what I heard, the Kay-Chuck, being mostly a cylindrical case, had much more side gripping surface and less backthrust on the tiny shoulder, so the setback problems that plagued the .22 Jet and rendered the .256 Magnum impossible to use in a revolver did not happen.

kywoodwrkr
12-01-2006, 05:16 PM
As usual I should have been clearer with my question.
I have a 22 barrel and cylinder(s) to replace the existing hardware with.
I was concerned about any differences that are encountered in the two barrels and cylinders on the centerfire frame.
Things like cylinder to barrel gap etc.
One thing I have found to be different or a problem is the button on the left side of the frame which keeps the cylinder from coming backward when the cylinder is open.
Looks like it will have to be filed down and adapted to the 22 cylinder.
I was also given a very good link which I'm putting here at the end.
Seems to be a large wealth of information at this website.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve
the gunsmith section:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/frm/f/580103904
Thanks very much for all the feedback.
Now to ascertain that I still have all the parts.
Thanks again.
DaveP kywoodwrkr

Sam
12-01-2006, 11:31 PM
IIRC Askins had a Woodsman converted to Velo Dog.
That would be much easier than converting a revolver.

I would see about installing a frame moujnted firing pin for the conversion.
You would need a really good smith to rebore the cyl for a K-Chuck. I would check with Bowen for that part of the job.

Sam

Blackwater
12-04-2006, 12:00 AM
Ky, IIRC, the Kay Chucks were made on the N frame, weren't they? Don't take that to the bank, 'cause my memory ain't what it usta' be, by ANY means. I think they were also made on the K frame too, but later in the ctg.'s development, IIRC (again).

You may want to check the cylinder length and the barrel stub's length to see if a tight enough barrel/cylinder gap can be achieved with your particular set of parts. No sense in doing all that work just to find you'd wind up with a b/c gap of .100" or something like that, when measuring can reveal any gross mismatches to start with.

If you get 'er goin', please report back on your results. I and others, I know, would be interested.

Blackwater
12-04-2006, 12:06 AM
Oh yeah! Forgot initially, but the key to loading these shouldered rounds in a revolver is finding the right load that gives you maximum attainable velocity BEFORE cases start setting back. The only fellow I knew who had one of the old .22 Jets wasn't deeply knowledgeable, and sold the gun in disgust when he couldn't find a load that achieved just the right pressure for his gun. Too much, and cases stick against the frame, and too little, and primers back out, sometimes stick in the firing pin hole. Either can tie up a gun and lock it seemingly solid. It's just a matter of finding just the right load. I did a similar thing with an old M-43 Win. in .22 Hornet that had excessive headspace. Loaded with 9 gr. 2400 and a 40 grainer, it worked fine, but more or less, and you had problems.

You'll also need to be SURE the cylinder chambers are polished smooth, but not "too" smooth. Roguer, and the case walls "stick" to the case better, and the smoother you get them, the more easily they'll set back against the frame. You may wind up wanting to try differing surface finishes for the chambers to get it "just right."

FWIW???

KCSO
12-04-2006, 10:39 AM
I had a Jet for some time in the 70's and found that if you kept the oil out of the cylinders and off the cases there was no problem with set back. I also noticed that after all the flash and bang there wasn't that much of a practical difference between the Jet in a revolver and the 22 magnum. Although the Jet did account for a couple of 100 yard coyotes.