Lee 6 cavity ?

[Slinger]

I've never used the Lee 6 cavity mould. I have used alot of Lyman 4 cavities though. As far as weight goes, with all 6 cavities filled, how does the Lee compare to the Lyman 4-cavity? I'm getting older and notice that my hands/wrists start to tire faster when using the 4 cavity Lymans. I thought about buying a 6 cavity Lee, thinking it's lighter because it's made out of aluminum, but thought I'd get some input from you fellas that have used the Lee before I do anything. I was looking at the 9mm 120gr TC & .38 Sp. 125 RF 6 cavitiy moulds. Thanks for any input!

[theperfessor]

I'm a lot like you - I have a lot of Lyman 4 cavity molds, started casting with them. In the last few years I have purchased several Lee six cavity molds and I'm liking the Lee's more all the time. I have the 358-125 RF, use it in .38, .357, and 9mm. For me it's a good bullet.

Free advice, take it or leave it: Get some BullPlate sprue plate lube and use it as directed. It makes using an aluminum mold a lot easier and will really prolong the life of the mold. And you might have to run your pot just a little hotter or pick up your casting pace a little. Aluminum doesn't stay hot quite as well as steel/iron molds. It's a little more noticeable with .38 caliber and smaller than it is with .41/.44/.45 caliber, less alloy mass to keep mold hot.

Oh, and clean your Lee mold well before using it, I just use acetone and then hot water and good dish soap. And for me at least, Lee molds usually work better the second or third time I use them. I think that's partially due to the heating/cooling cycle burning off any residues and conditioning the mold cavity surface, and partially due to me getting used to the rhythm and timing needed to get good results.

[fredj338]

Maybe not as old, but anything heavier than an iron 4cav is just work when casting. The Lee is quite a bit lighter, but as noted, you have to watch your temps, they heat up fast. I often will use two molds & alternate them when they get hot.

[Slinger]

Thanks for the input, fellas. I think I'll give one a try and see how I like it.

[MtGun44]

I agree with theperfesser, but have not tried his particular favorite design. I have had excellent
results with Lee 358-158 RF in .357/.38 revolvers and 356-120TC in 9mms. Both sized to
.357 or .358. Lee 6 cavs work well, need to be very clean. I use a toothbrush and vigorously
scrub the cavities with Comet. It removes any small burrs and cleans it very well. Can't
agree more about the benefits of Bullplate lube.

Bill

[Dale53]

I am also getting up in years and and my endurance is not what it used to be. However, I have NO problem handling four cavity iron or brass moulds. On the other hand, my H&G six cavity mould (iron) for the .38 Special #251 dbl ended w/c is a handful. The mould casts beautifully, the bullets shoot extremely well but I kind of dread having to use it due to the weight. The upside is that it turns out a 21 lb pot full of finished bullets in about .45 minutes. So, I manage.

I have a number of aluminum moulds including four cavity ones from LBT, five cavity ones from NOE, and several Mihec six cavity ones along with a number of Lee six cavity moulds. The light weight of aluminum is MUCH appreciated.

My favorite moulds are MiHec's four cavity brass moulds. The reasons are simple - they are more durable than aluminum, they have excellent casting qualities, Mihec's moulds give you EXACTLY what you expect in regard to dimensions, and frankly, they are beautiful. I am not much into "Bling" but for Mihec's moulds I make an exception. They are a work of art.

Back on topic - the OP will enjoy using the production output of a six cavity aluminum mould together with the less tiring light weight.

NOTE: I HIGHLY recommend a small manicurist's fan (go the the fan department of Target Stores or Walmart) for only about $7.00. Mount it where you can slide the full, hot mould under the flow (mine is about one foot off my bench top) to maintain proper mould temperature and fast hardening of the sprue. It only takes 2-3 seconds by the clock to open the mould after sliding under the fan. The mould, whether brass, iron, or aluminum NEVER overheats.

Dale53

[oscarflytyer]

I would think a 125ish 6 cav would be fine. I am using a MiHec 200 grn 6 cav. It can get heavy/tiresome for a long cast (300-400 bullets at a time), but I sure like the volume. I just rest it on the edge of the coleman stove grate I use for a few seconds...

Also a trick I found with my aluminum 6 cav to get it up to temp. Start with the nearest cavity first, then work your way up the mold as each cavity fills out. Great way to warm it up and not waste tossing out bullets.

[Dale53]

I pre-het all of my moulds on an electric hotplate. There are many ways of pre-heating but I prefer the controlled temperature of the hotplate. However, if you do not pre-heat, then oscarflytyer's suggestion to start casting one cavity, then progressively proceed will really help. If you fill a six cavity Lee mould then try to cut all the sprues with a cold mould, you can break the handle.

Dale53

[Walter Laich]

I like my Lees from the standpoint of producting a bunch of bullets in a relatively short time. Compared to my Lyman 4 cav. molds I get 2 'extra' bullets with each casting cycle (filling, cutting the spur, emptying the mold). That adds up over an hour or so.

When you're casting for 6 shooters every little bit helps

[singleshot]

The Lee 6 cavity should at least DOUBLE the production of an iron 4 cavity, and is lighter. If the mould is getting too hot, your molten lead is too hot, unless you like the slow pace. I can crank them out as fast as I can move with my Lee 20-lb pot set on 3. The thing that slows me down is having to add lead. Aluminum dissapates heat much faster than any other mould material and the cooler the molten temps, the faster production provided you can keep up.

[Slinger]

Well, I'll be casting for 38Sp. (125 gr.) & 9mm (120 gr. TC). I shoot more 38 than 9mm. I've already got about 10,000 45 acp, 200 gr. SWC in inventory, so I won't have to cast any of them for a number of years. By then, I may be too old to care to cast. I shoot mainly defensive type for practice, just to keep from getting rusty. I usually shoot every couple weeks and burn up a couple hundred rounds. Depends on the day. Shoot till I'm either tired, satisified or both!

I'd like to use two of the 6 cav. Lee moulds when casting. One 38- one 9mm. Being that you don't have to beat on the sprue plate I take it that the cam action is alot easier on the caster. I've used quite a few of the Lee 2 cav. over the years and Like them. Of course in my younger days I used alot of NEI & Lyman as well. I'm after production I guess, as the type of shooting I do doesn't require extremely accurate bullets. I just hate to put out $75 or so for two of the Lee 6cav. & find I don't like them.

[Slinger]

The Lee 6 cavity should at least DOUBLE the production of an iron 4 cavity, and is lighter. If the mould is getting too hot, your molten lead is too hot, unless you like the slow pace. I can crank them out as fast as I can move with my Lee 20-lb pot set on 3. The thing that slows me down is having to add lead. Aluminum dissapates heat much faster than any other mould material and the cooler the molten temps, the faster production provided you can keep up.

That's about where I run my pot (Set on #3) when I get the metal up to Temp.

[jlchucker]

I agree with theperfesser, but have not tried his particular favorite design. I have had excellent
results with Lee 358-158 RF in .357/.38 revolvers and 356-120TC in 9mms. Both sized to
.357 or .358. Lee 6 cavs work well, need to be very clean. I use a toothbrush and vigorously
scrub the cavities with Comet. It removes any small burrs and cleans it very well. Can't
agree more about the benefits of Bullplate lube.

Bill

MtGun, you've got a 6 cav Lee 358-158 RF mold, I take it? That model gets a lot of good reviews. I went and bought, from Midsouth, the 2 cavity version a few months ago. I've finally had decent weather and time to cast some boolits. I notice that my 2 cavity is a bevel-base model. The ads by various vendors show a picture of a plain base boolit. Is your 6 cav throwing plain base or bevelled boolits? I got my mold to use in a Rossi carbine. I called Lee and they said that mine (and the lady at Lee quoted my part number) was a bevel-base mold. Do you think there's a difference between 2 cav and 6 cav boolits in Lee 358-158 RF?

[462]

I can't speak for MtGun44, however, I have a 6-cavity 358-158 RF and it is bevel based. My understanding is that, at one time, it was a plain base design and those vendors' pictures are quite dated and rather misleading.

[jlchucker]

I can't speak for MtGun44, however, I have a 6-cavity 358-158 RF and it is bevel based. My understanding is that, at one time, it was a plain base design and those vendors' pictures are quite dated and rather misleading.

Thanks, MtGun. I'll try the boolits with the bevel base in my carbine, and if they work OK I'll leave well enough alone. If not, I'll take out the bevel and see how that works. Guys claim to get good results with this mold. I've never used bevel-base boolits in a rifle, though. If the Lee is not satisfactory, then RCBS looks like they've got a 158 grainer that will suit my plainbase purposes.

[Ben]

On any Lee mold whether it is a 2 cav. or 6 cav., when you first cast with the mold , examine the leading edge of the sprue plate that rubs directly on the top of the mold blocks when the sprue plate swings shut and you open it again to cut the sprue.

I take a fine cut file and " roll " the edge of the sprue plate to prevent the plate from cutting grooves in the top of the mold.

Also, check the underside of the sprue plate for minor imperfections that can also gall the tops of the blocks.

Once all this is done, keep some Bullplate on the tops of the blocks and the underside of the sprue plate and enjoy your mold.

Ben

[rockrat]

I do like Ben does and round the edge of the sprue plate. Also where it hits on the sprue plate stop, I round the "V" a bit. Bull plate on the sprue plate bolt and NEI mould prep (powdered graphite in an alcohol base IIRC) on the top of the mould/sprue plate, and bottom of the sprue plate.

I run my pot at 710 degrees when using one of my many Lee 6 cav moulds.

[MtGun44]

Mine is the bb design, a minor PITA with the Lyman or RCBS lubrisizers, so I run them
through a Star, so no excess lube on the bb. VERY good design, works extremely well over
a near max load of H110 in .357 Mag - see Hodgdon's site for loading data.

+1 what Ben said.

Bill

[markinalpine]

My Lee 90387, 356-120-TC, .356" nom. diameter, 120 nom. grain, truncated cone mould with handles and 6 previously cast boolits weighs 1Lb. 11-3/4oz.
My Lee 90697 452-200-RF, .452" nom. dia., 200 nom. grain, round flat nose mould with handles and 6 boolits weighs 1Lb. 13-3/8oz.
Neither of these included the weight of the sprues.
Mark :coffee:

[Cherokee]

jlchucker - I cast my Lee 358158RF from a WW+Tin alloy that comes out about 160 gr. After I run them nose first thru my Star sizer, they are not BB any more. They work great for me.

[lesharris]

The Lee 6 cavity molds are lighter in weight than the Lyman.
I have more Lee molds than the Lymans right now.
The 2 cavity Lee molds are cheap enough to try in what bullet design and weight that you want.
If the 2 cavitity molds work then order the 6 cavity.
Remember to Lee ment both Lee molds and use Bullplate lube and Kroil if needed,also Lee 6 cavity molds do not come with handles so order at least 1 pair with your order.

[NHlever]

Both of my 2 cavity Lee 158-RF molds have a small bevel base, but it has not bothered at all, and they shoot very well in both my revolvers, and Winchester, and Marlin carbines. It has been a very accurate boolit in all aplications for me.

[Echo]

A suggestion for those who, like me, are noticing the passage of time. I put together a platform that fits under my furnace so I can rest the mold thereon. Made it out of scrap 1x3's. Places the mold at exactly the right height for pouring. Right, I have to place it on the stage, then take it off the stage, but I don't have to support it while pouring. Saves wear & tear on the increasingly older joints.

[Cherokee]

Echo - I started using a platform under my Lee pot years ago so I would have a constant level heigth for pouring, then discovered it really helped with the weight of the Lyman 4 cv moulds in a long session. Now I couldn't do without it and the Lee's are so easy to use.

[Dale53]

My original Lyman 11 lb bottom pour pot did not have a mould rest. I inverted the cast iron ingot mould and rested the mould on that. It worked pretty dern well.

I sold my Lyman after many years of use and bought an RCBS bottom pour pot. It has the best rest of all. It is a fully adjustable simple rod that the mould rests on. Lyman's mould rest is a channel that can collect overrun bullet metal and require a feller to stop and clean it off before continuing. The RCBS design, you just push the lead off the end. It doesn't stick, so I would have to rate the RCBS as the best.

If I had a Lee pot I would certainly use a rest.

Dale53

[theperfessor]

+1 to what Dale53 says about the Lyman rest. I flipped mine over and it helps, but I'm thinking I need to make something better for it one of these days.