Need help to remove gas check shank

[wallenba]

Guys, I'm using a lapped and Beagled Lee C329-205-R1 mold that drops .335/6 in my M95 Styer. After enlarging the mold I now have trouble keeping the checks on and even getting them on straight. So I'd like to remove the shank. I don't have a machine shop or access to one for a small job like this. I read a few post about it being done with a drill press, but no details on doing it without messin' up the mold. How are you guys doing it?:veryconfu A regular drill bit?

[rockrat]

Eric@ hollowpointmoulds.com will open up the gas check shank area to boolit diameter.

[white eagle]

that would not be something you would want to do on a drill press
a bridgeport maybe but not a drill press

[Casting Timmy]

I haven't removed the gas check part of any mold yet, but if I was going to do it I would clamp the mold together using a vise or something similar and slowly drill it out on a drill press.

Sorry I disagree with others about not using a drill press, but the drill is going to follow the hole that's already there. Just be sure to use some fluid to get a nice surface finish and go slowly on the depth.

Typically a drill will go slightly over it's rated size by a couple of thousandths, so try and pick a bit slightly smaller than what you want it to finish out as if possible.

[white eagle]

no control
I suppose if you aint to fussy bout what it looks like and the
end dimensions you end up
if a drill press drills over size there is something wrong with the spindle
or spindle bearings
your mold if you want to hack it feel free
but there are more precise ways to do what you want

[wallenba]

It's only a twenty dollar mold. Sending it back and forth thru the mail for work would cost me close to that. It took a bit of work lapping the mold big enough, then Beagling it to bring it in round. So, it has value added for that work, to me anyway. Maybe if drilling it, it gets a little off, the sizer would true it up? The alternative is to keep shooting it without a check. I'm tinkering with paper patching my .324 Mauser boolit too. So far I'm just a hack at patching.

[tall grass]

wallenba

Scroll down (or up) to ben's "Lee Plain base 30 cal 170 gr." thread, think you will find what you are looking for.

Jim

[theperfessor]

Well, if your going to do it in a drill press at least get the right tool such as this one:

This is for a .335" chucking reamer from MSC Direct.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=72003353&PMPXNO=2048489&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults

A two flute drill will often walk, grab and auger out the entry point when used to enlarge an existing hole. A multi-flute reamer has much less tendency to do this and will follow the existing hole better.

[HARRYMPOPE]

i 2nd Erik's work,top notch and a very good fellow to deal with.

HMP

[wallenba]

wallenba

Scroll down (or up) to ben's "Lee Plain base 30 cal 170 gr." thread, think you will find what you are looking for.

Jim

Yep, he got it done with a drill press, but the details are not there. Theperfessor recommends the reamer, which I think is the way to go. Just now need to find a good way to square it up and clamp it to the press. I will only get one shot at this with this mold, but it won't be a great loss if I have to start over. Gonna give it a go. Don't mind skatin' on thin ice, so long as it ain't over deep water.

[nanuk]

I'd like to get a sliding 4way or 6 way vise.

I think with prudent use of a TI and a good sliding vise, you can get it flat, as the sprew plate surface is the only needing to be perpendicular to the hole.

then with a taper, you can feel your way to the hole and replace with the bit.

I do like the idea of a chucking reamer. I have never tried it, but have read where it should track much more true than an bit due to the offset flutes

[pistolman44]

These molds have been popping on Evil bay. I was wondering if these molds were up to specs. This maybe why they are selling them on there. I was going to get one for a TC Encore 15" brl. but you guys scared me out of buying one now. That's why I like this site with all the experienced gentlemen that know what they are talking about on here.

[NHlever]

If I were going to try to do that on a drill press I would clamp the mold lightly in a good drill press vise, and then use a pilot polished down from a piece of drill rod, or brass that just fit the gas check portion of the mold to line things up if you don't have an indicator. I would also be very careful clamping the vise down since it is very easy to move things a bit with the clamp, and then the vise has no "float". Depending on the weight of the vise, etc. I would be tempted not to clamp it at all. The next problem, of course is finding a drill that is very sharp, and the right size. As others have mentioned, boring the mold out with a lathe, and 4 jaw chuck, or doing it in a Bridgeport mill would be much preferred. I have a couple of cavities that I want to do, and I have a drill press, but I also have access to a guy in a machine shop, and I will go that route.

[Duckiller]

Super glue will hold checks on. A very small prop works well.