Learned some things casting today.

[toddx]

I am casting for a .308 Rem using a Lee 185 gr 2 cavity mould.
I noted some great tips from ya'll and started casting again today.
One cavity kept sticking when I went to drop them out. I decided to wait before I opened the cavity up and found that 15 seconds made the bullets drop out easier. The cavity furthest from the handle still caught a little but it was night and day difference.
On a prior ( first ) cast I did not get clean bullet bases. Another thing I did was tighten up the sprue plate to where it actually was under friction with the mould. I think this helped in slicing off the excess more sharply. I also used a bit of parafin to lube the MOULD. I got cold feet about using the Lee NRA formula after more research. Not sure if the parafin helped. I had wrinkled bullets for the first 15 or so and then everything fell in to place. I got my mould hotter and my alloy cooler. No more oxidation and my birthday candle flux smoked and only went to burn after many seconds. I did NOT smoke the cavity this time either.
A fine poster on this forum also said its a positive thing to have the bullets a little frosty. I was able to get them that way too.
I may still be making mistakes. I thought I would run this by you the experts to see if anything I have said is odd or wrong.
Thanks
Totally fun!
T

[selmerfan]

Yes, something is odd. "I also used a bit of parafin (sic) to lube the MOULD. I got cold feet about using the Lee NRA formula after more research. Not sure if the parafin (sic) helped."
I think your understanding of boolit lube may be a bit askew. The lube is for shooting the boolits, not casting them. You don't want anything in the mold while you're casting, except possibly smoking them. You lube boolits after you cast them and they have cooled. The lube is for the barrel, not the mold. What research on the Lee NRA formula did you do that caused you to have cold feet? Welcome to the forum, feel free to ask questions and READ and use the SEARCH function for topics - many have already been covered and you should be able to find your answers in other threads, but ask away.

[toddx]

Yes, something is odd. "I also used a bit of parafin (sic) to lube the MOULD. I got cold feet about using the Lee NRA formula after more research. Not sure if the parafin (sic) helped."
I think your understanding of boolit lube may be a bit askew. The lube is for shooting the boolits, not casting them. You don't want anything in the mold while you're casting, except possibly smoking them. You lube boolits after you cast them and they have cooled. The lube is for the barrel, not the mold. What research on the Lee NRA formula did you do that caused you to have cold feet? Welcome to the forum, feel free to ask questions and READ and use the SEARCH function for topics - many have already been covered and you should be able to find your answers in other threads, but ask away.
Lee says to lube the mould v grooves and pins.
The LEE NRA bullet mould can gum up the cavity faces. Yes this is completely different than the Lee ALOX lube on the boolits.
t

[onondaga]

Sounds like your casting method is improving and you are getting good results. Look closely at the mold cavities with some magnification. I use a 4 or 6x jewelers eye loop on my glasses or a magnifier hood. Inspect the edges of the cavities for the tiniest flaws that dent or crease the mold cavity edge. Those will hang up bullets and make drop out poor. Use a popsicle stick and rub or burnish out the defects on the cavity edges so that no metal projects toward the middle of the cavities creating undercut that grabs the bullets. I am sure if you are an eye surgeon you could do that with a scalpel , but I stick with wood as it is so easy to really damage an aluminum mold with a steel tool.

You can get them "just right" and casting will be more pleasurable.

A couple of other things beside Bullplate are good for lubricating mold alignment grooves and pins. Neverseize high heat grease or High Vacuum silicone grease or silicone dielectric grease will all take the heat. Application so sparingly is the problem because you sure don't want any running into your mold cavities. I use a cheap solder fluxing brush with the bristles cut to 1/4 inch. I get a little on the brush then rub it on paper to get the excess off. you only have to put a little shine on those aligning mold areas so the blocks close smoothly and don't stick.

Gary

[462]

I don't use boolit lube to lube moulds. I've experimented with anti-sieze, 2-cycle motor oil, Kroil and polydimethylsiloxane (Sprayway No. 945). Each as worked to one degree or another.

Currently, I'm awaiting a shipment of Bullplate. (To all you Bullplate users, I've read your positive comments, but am known as someone who takes his time before jumping on the bandwagon. I suspect that it will work as advertized and I'll quit experimenting.)

All screws and bolts will continue to receive a coat of anti-sieze.

Getting perfect boolits isn't as easy as it may seem to be. Time and experimenting will prove to be your best mentors. You're getting better and each casting session will be a new lesson.

[badgeredd]

I am casting for a .308 Rem using a Lee 185 gr 2 cavity mould.
I noted some great tips from ya'll and started casting again today.
One cavity kept sticking when I went to drop them out. I decided to wait before I opened the cavity up and found that 15 seconds made the bullets drop out easier. The cavity furthest from the handle still caught a little but it was night and day difference.
On a prior ( first ) cast I did not get clean bullet bases. Another thing I did was tighten up the sprue plate to where it actually was under friction with the mould. I think this helped in slicing off the excess more sharply. I also used a bit of parafin to lube the MOULD. I got cold feet about using the Lee NRA formula after more research. Not sure if the parafin helped. I had wrinkled bullets for the first 15 or so and then everything fell in to place. I got my mould hotter and my alloy cooler. No more oxidation and my birthday candle flux smoked and only went to burn after many seconds. I did NOT smoke the cavity this time either.
A fine poster on this forum also said its a positive thing to have the bullets a little frosty. I was able to get them that way too.
I may still be making mistakes. I thought I would run this by you the experts to see if anything I have said is odd or wrong.
Thanks
Totally fun!
T

Sounds like you're getting the idea on casting. One thing that seems to cause a lot of problems is the sprue plate tightness or looseness and whether lube should be used on the mold. Various opinions abound. One thing I have found is a lube of some kind is often needed on the sprue plate. "Bullplate" is one that many use and swear by. A good synthetic two cycle oil applied lightly with a que tip will alleviate friction and galling. Another product that works is welding anti-spatter paste... again a little goes a LONG ways. Give them a try but remember a very little is needed to do the job. Good luck and good casting.

Edd

[Charlie Two Tracks]

Hi Toddx. Sounds as if you are on the right track and have been given some great advice. The great thing about casting is if you do make a mistake you can remelt it and do it again. Have fun and be careful of that hot lead.

[toddx]

Thank you Gentlemen.
Lubing or not lubing and which lube has been the biggest confusion as a new caster.
Many think I am using bullet lube to lube the mould and then those who do lube have many different ways in which to do that. All great advice. I will cast a few more time and I suppose BullPlate will be my next order. I hastily bought 2 sticks of NRA lube and was bugged to have to buy another one. NO worries. Part of the fun.
Happy Casting.
T

[Lead Fred]

Ive only shot Kroil in mine since they were new. Never had a problem

[selmerfan]

Sounds like you're definitely on the right track - the deficiency of the written word to fully explain something is what caused my questions. I swear by Bullplate as a mold lube, I use a homemade speed green concoction for boolits, as well as 45/45/10.

[Doby45]

You support vendors here on this site and you can NOT go wrong.

Bull Plate from the Bullshop
Carnuba Red or BAC from White Label Lubes
Alloys from Captain or Sam
Molds from Miha, NOE, Accurate (list goes on)

Nothing you can't find from the vendors here and all of it is absolute top notch. I have NEVER had buyers remorse buying from any of these guys.

[1Shirt]

Bull Plate and Canuba Red are two things I will not be without! Good stuff 99!
1Shirt!:coffee:

[blackthorn]

Bull Plate from the Bullshop
Carnuba Red or BAC from White Label Lubes
Alloys from Captain or Sam
Molds from Miha, NOE, Accurate (list goes on)
And
Gas Checks from Blammer!!

[mdi]

The only "rule" to follow is make good boolits. Your method may vary from mine and we can both get good boolits from our molds. You seem to be finding answers to your problems quite well, keep at it. I have several Lee molds and they all have their "personality", but I use Bull Plate on them all (and my Lee 4-20) and the results are great. One or two I polished the cavitys, one with Comet and one with toothpaste so boolits drop easier, but other than that they all make good boolits...

[Wayne Smith]

The NRA lube is for the boolits, not the mold, as has been mentioned. It goes in a lube sizer or melted and pan lube the boolits.