Question about molds

[MikeACP]

I don't want to start a fight here among people. I'm new to all of this, Iv'e noticed Lyman bullet molds cost more than twice what Lee ones do. Are they that much better?

[Doby45]

Not as of late.

[mold maker]

Lyman has had some issues lately, but so has LEE. Lyman molds are made of iron and will withstand somewhat more abuse, but will RUST. Lee molds are made of Aluminum, as are several of the other major mfg.
Aluminum molds are softer and can be easily damaged if resonable care isn't used.
I have many of each, and although each material has it's own characteristics, you can easily cast high quality boolits from both.
I especially like the 4-6 cav aluminum molds because of the light weight and fast production.

[Kraschenbirn]

At one time, I would've said "Yes, Lyman moulds are significantly better." but not, perhaps, today. Even though I haven't purchased any new Lyman moulds recently, I've read (and heard, first hand) too many complaints about Lyman quality control and customer service in the last year or so. Lee, too, appears to have had some recent quality problems but I've always found Lee customer service to be first rate. Perhaps, too, I have somewhat lower expectations of Lee moulds due to their low price but I've never had a "defective" Lee product that they didn't make good on, either.

On the other hand, if you come across any of the old pre-Lyman "Ideal" moulds in decent condition (at a reasonable price, of course) and in a caliber/design you can use...grab 'em and run!! The old Ohaus moulds (from before they dropped their line of casting equipment) are also outstanding and, usually, can be had for a lot less money than Ideals or early Lymans. (All three Ohaus moulds that I have cast slightly undersize...like, maybe, .001-.002...but a bit of beagling fixed that quickly enough.)

Bill

[btroj]

Are they better? Not to me. Do I have a lot of Lyman moulds? Yes, because I buy based upon design and need, not manufacturer.

Brad

[geargnasher]

Lyman was the gold standard. WAS. Lee used to be junk. Lee is moving up in the world, and their moulds cost almost the same now as they did when I first started nearly 20 years ago. These days, I don't hesitate to recommend a Lee mould. For a beginner a two cavity, if you're familiar with casting the six-bangers are even better.

Be sure and read the sticky at Castpics dot net called "Lee-menting", it's a great tutorial on some simple but necessary to make them work as good as they can.

Gear

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Hi and welcome to the forum. Just a suggestion that you do not confine yourself to considering Lyman and Lee. Excellent molds are also manufactured by RCBS and Saeco, as well as certain mold makers that are well known on this forum and are found in group buy categories. Do a bit of hunting around here on the forum and on line and gather information and you will be amazed at how much is out there well beyond the realm of Lyman and Lee. Good bullets come from a good mold to start with and a good one is something you have to buy usually only once. LLS

[MikeACP]

Thanks for the good feedback. Bullet design would be a consideration. And I have forgot to look at other companies.

[94Doug]

I can recommend RCBS and Saeco too. They are the next step up in quality, and of course price.

[jmsj]

As for factory molds dropping to specified dimensions, I would have to say that the Lee molds are currently better than the Lyman molds. I have as many Lyman molds as Lee molds, lately the Lee molds have been .001-.003 over nominal dimensions. I am happy when a current Lyman mold drops to nominal dimensions.
As stated the advantages of an iron mold is that they take more abuse than aluminum molds but I try to never abuse my molds. I break the sprues using a gloved hand instead of striking the sprue plate w/ a mallet or stick.
Good luck, jmsj

[462]

Ford...Chevy...Dodge...

Up to this point, I, too, have bought moulds for their designs rather than their manufacturer. I did have problems with two Lee moulds dropping boolits that were too skinny, but the others have always worked well.

I've never purchased a new Lyman mould, only used, so can't speak about their recent quality. I have two ancient Ideal moulds, though, that are absolute gems. One is so old it's marked 308291, instead of 311291.

I'm almost positive that future moulds will be purchased from a custom maker. I've never read a bad review of NOE or Accurate moulds, and they have some very interesting designs.

[EDK]

Ford...Chevy...Dodge...

I'm almost positive that future moulds will be purchased from a custom maker. I've never read a bad review of NOE or Accurate moulds, and they have some very interesting designs.

The LEE group buy moulds I bought here have been pretty good AND designs not readily available. The group buys from Old West, NOE and MIHEC have been no less than excellent...right up with my HENSLEY & GIBBS. With more than 40 years of casting my own boolits, the choice in moulds today is unbelievable..and prices are very reasonable.

[Dennis Eugene]

Well there are a lot more used Iron and steel molds out there than there are aluminium. Now I don't know if that's because they've been makeing iron and steel and brass for so much longer or is it because aluminum just doesn't stand up as well. I just know that I'm to cheap and hard on equipment to buy Lee molds . Dennis

[MikeACP]

A couple of refernces have been made to "dropping bullets" What do mean by this.

[stubshaft]

Could refer to the type of bullet being cast as in "it is dropping a 245 WC" or a reference to the moulds abillity to release the bullets without beating on the hinge handles as in "the boolits were dropping right out".

[MikeACP]

Thanks again.

[casterofboolits]

I have close to 100 Lyman four cavity moulds and have only had one lemon. It was a four cavity for the 225 grain round nose for the 45 AP. Bought about ten years ago.

My latest Lyman mould purchases were two each of four cavity moulds #401638 40-175-TCBB and #452490 45-250-FPBB and are excellent moulds. Both moulds drop boolits +/- one grain.

[peerlesscowboy]

A couple of refernces have been made to "dropping bullets" What do mean by this.
I think that means like......."as they emerge from the mould", as in before they're sized and lubed and maybe a gascheck applied.
Like, ........the mould "drops 'em" at .312" body, .300" nose & 173 gr from Ly#2 alloy.

[white eagle]

sometimes spending more saves you in the long run

[MikeACP]

I think that means like......."as they emerge from the mould", as in before they're sized and lubed and maybe a gascheck applied.
Like, ........the mould "drops 'em" at .312" body, .300" nose & 173 gr from Ly#2 alloy.

That makes sense from the posts I've seen.

[songdog53]

I have and use Lee and Lyman and both were purchased for bullet design. Lee are cheaper and work fine but there are some bullet designs and weights they don't offer, so found them in Lyman.
Which is best? Depends on what you mean by best, to me is one that casts the boolit i want.

[38fan]

Don't know if it's mentioned anywhere but, never use tools on the molding surface or cav.
A soapy toothbrush is about as hard a tool to be used on it.
A strike stick, mine is an oak limb about 1 1/2" dia. with most of the bark still on it. Strike the sprue plate lever. If boolits stick, strike the handle hinge.

[bhn22]

If you buy a LEE mould, make sure you read the untold pages of fixes and tweaks necessary to make them run. Use the search feature & decide for yourself. To make it fair, do the same for Lyman. Eliminate any complaints regarding used moulds for both, since you'll likely never know the moulds history either way.

[Doby45]

Try the mold first. My last two Lee molds cast perfectly out of the box, all I did was wash it with hot soapy water and then went to casting.

[geargnasher]

I think that means like......."as they emerge from the mould", as in before they're sized and lubed and maybe a gascheck applied.
Like, ........the mould "drops 'em" at .312" body, .300" nose & 173 gr from Ly#2 alloy.

I don't know about others, but that's exactly what I mean also when I say "drops from the mould". Most of my moulds "drop" boolits right out, but it takes a lot of work to make them that way.

Gear

[RP]

I have just gotten a new to me mold in 22 cal. This mold I was told was dropping boolits fine but not for me. He was using a diff alloy then what I am using. I am using stg mono type to make sure they are hard for my ARs. I cleaned the mold looked it over even done some outer mold tricks to make a mold drop better with just a little improvement. Adj spruce plate heat polishing but still no help. Then I slowed how fast my alloy was going in the cavs. BINGO the boolits now will drop out may have to give it a slight tap but thats it. Its the first time how fast the allow was going in has effected me.